What is Homasote?

I spike most of my track and I don’t mean track nails. I use “scale” spikes. Bought a large supply of them back in the 80’s, and still have some left but I believe you can still buy them. As far as I am concerned my homabed is ideal with this method of tracklaying. But there may be others I haven’t tried.

I would not try milling it myself because it does raise a lot of dust and not only will it be hard to clean up, it might be even worse in your nose and lungs. Not an MD so I have no authorative reasons to think this, just common sense. However, just cutting the sheets of homosote many years ago for the yard area was bad enough I did it on saw horses in the back yard.

My choice was made back in the 80’s when the other choices were not attractive (I hate cork roadbed), but there might be other choices today.

Bob

Bob

I agree with you the mess will be high, I will probably do this in the springtime when I can open the garage door of my shop and wear a mask - hopefully the dust collector on the table saw will help.

I found this you might be interested in: http://www.housatonicrr.com/DIY_Roadbed.htm

The only thing I would do different - that is - if I decide to make a one part roadbed instead ot a two part, is change the way I cut the bevel. Because the way he is doing it in his description is a safety concern for me. I will use my table saw to cut the roadbed strips to width and thickness, to save time. Then I will use my Festool rail saw to cut the bevel, it’s much safer. Plus the Festool can be used outside and with their dust collection is second to none for hand held circular saws. I have cut rails and stiles for my kitchen cabinet face frames as narrow as one inch wide with no problem at all and still can maintain accuracy in width and edge squareness, so as long as the opposite edge of the guide rail is supported by material of the same thickness. That festool saw sure comes in handy time after time.

Either that, or I would try using my Grr-Ripper from Micro Jig on the TS to make this bevel cut, i have also cut out narrow strips on

I am wondering why you stopped using it – does blue foam and adhesive have better properties?

a: Blue foam is lighter and easier to cut and can be carved for scenic effects. But it is difficult to bend, is noisy and creates a very thick roadbed. I personally don’t like it at all.

So does everyone agree that for hand spiking (which is what I intend to do on my layout), Homasote is the best material? Or is there anything better, if money is no object?

a: Homasote is one of the best materials to hand spicke into. Some people have used soft plywood or clear pine boards, but I have not had luck with either of those and I would not use anything but Homasote or Homabed.

Should I assume here that Homasote should only be used for roadbed and rail yards? And not for layering it and for example carving it up to make hills, and mountains, rivers, landscaping and such?

a: I would not use it for scenery, there are much easier and lighter methods.

I am wondering…to mill this stuff for roadbed, would milling it on my table saw be advised? Or is this unsafe to cut on a table saw – hazardous dust etc?

a: Homasote is pressed paper so when you cut it with a saw it creates a lot of fine, fluffy grey dust. A LOT of fine, fluffy grey dust. If you are going to cut it into strips with a table saw, I would suggest moving it outside. Like any fine particle, since it isn’t air, breathing it isn’t reccommended. Its not poisonous, its just fine, fluffy grey dust, LOTS of fine, fluffy grey dust. When I have to make a few single cuts now, I use a sharp utility knife and cut the homasote. It takes a little longer, but creates ZERO dust. Personally I wouldn’t mill it, unless you want garbage cans of fine,

On second thought then I think I will use the Festool for the whole operation LOL. Because for dust collection it is great. Although I sure will be emptying out my dust collector often I could do the whole job inside, much better for dust collection than any table saw, unless one has an Excalibur over arm blade cover which provide great dust collection on table saws.

Bruce, you might want to check with McDiarmid Lumber. I’m not saying that they have it, but I’ve found that they have a lot of stuff that the big box stores don’t. Besides, they’re a true lumberyard and they’re a local company and they give good service. You might have to use the different names for homasote that the other posters have suggested.

When someone mentioned that it was a pressed paper product, it got me wondering if the 2X4 suspended ceiling tiles that are made from pressed paper would be a good substitute.

I remember when my parents build their beach cottage around 1949, they used sheets of a pressed paper product to cover the interior walls (maybe it was homasote?) and similar pressed paper sheets with layers of a black substance (tar or tarpaper?) in it for the outside walls then covered them with siding. Maybe homasote was a popular building material many decades ago in Canada but has fallen into disuse with the advent of better materials.

EDIT: Oops. came across a thread about using ceiling tiles a little further down the page. Maybe they’re not good for roadbed.

I have tried various roadbeds for spiking handlaid track - cork, Homasote, Celotex, Upson board, redwood, pine. Homasote was significantly better - and cork was the worst by a long shot. Redwood looked very nice in a display case. Homasote has a very reasonable pressure required for spike insertion that doesn’t bend many spikes. Yet it holds them firmly.

There is a group of HOn3 track layers that prefers door skin - a 1/8" veener of softwood. I may have to try that.

I cookie cutter Homasote along with the plywood subroadbed after I have the basic track plan laid out on the sheet of Homasote. I use a fine cut jig saw blade, and vacuum the mess afterwards. Actually, the last time I laid a drop cloth under the layout and used the sawdust and Homasote dust as a mulch or fill in the more remote parts of the yard. My method might be too expensive for a large layout, but it works just fine with less than 100 sq ft (3 sheets) of Homasote.

just my experiences

Fred W

I was wondering - are there different manufacturers of Homasote? If so, which one is the best for holding spikes?

There are different types of insulation board made by different manufacturers (most of the other products are not suitable for model railroad use). Most other insulation boards are made from some other compressed fiber or product and are not as dense as Homasote, so they do not hold spikes anything like real Homasote.

The are different grades of Homasote.

There is only one Homasote company (although milled Homasote is sold by Homabed) and Homasote is made by only one company.

Here in North Carolina it is very difficult to find. If you area has a movie studio like we have here in Wilmington, NC most likely a Distributor may be found. Why? The Movie Studios use Homasote for building sets that needs to resemble concrete/cement.

Homosote is compressed recycled newspaper (that’s why it is gray). There are two types of material made today. The most common is called 440 board. The other is called NCFR board. It is similar to the 440 but machines better and is fireproof. It is several times as expensive. Then each material is made in two finishes-a standard that you are all familiar with and a sanded finish that is called Pinnacle. The latter has the advantage for roadbed use of being of a more precise and consistent thickness. On my new layout I went all the way with Pinnacle NCFR, at about $150 per sheet. I cut my own roadbed out of the sheet and it turns out great. I got some samples of Homabed and didn’t like it. It’s also too pricy, but some people like it. One last note. Homosote has changed over the years. I believe that somewhere around 1980 was the big change. So don’t compare today’s product with something you knew about earlier than that. As far as obtaining it, I would go to a lumber supply that deals more with professionals,certainly not any Lowes or Home Depot type. If that fails I would go to a Homosote website and get a hold of a rep for your area.The rep can get you small free samples of each type to play with.

I guess I would be afraid then of buying it at Lowes or HD, they might just sell me a cheap imitation or some generic brand. Menards have it?

The folks here at my local home deopt told me on the phone a few days ago that they sell it for about 25 bucks a 4 x 8 sheet but I have not gone in there yet to actually look at it yet to see if it comes from the Homasote company.

It is on my home layout and Free-mo modules. While I live in Chilliwack, BC I bought it in Vancouver although one of the building suppliers here did stock it at one time. Call Homasote in the US and ask them for their Canadian distributors list.

The Inlander

Choked Smurf? Pink, of course.

How do smurfs pronounce Homasote?

Ho ma sote. Peter Smith, Memphis

I found homasote at Windsor Plywood in Calgary. They have a supplier that has sheets of 4’x8’x.5". It’s expensive - about $50/sheet CAN$.

As far as cutting Homosote goes, a saber saw works well to cut pieces out of the board and a bandsaw is great for adding a bevel. Clamp a bevelled guide to the table. Both saws produce a lot less dust in the air than a table saw.

Blind Bruce.

I got a sheet of it here in Toronto at the Rona Building Centre on Martingrove Rd. at Belfield St. ( N/W corner. ) It was listed as Homasote. It was about 3 to 4 years ago and it cost me just under $35.00. Home Depot didn’t know what I was talking about. I think that if you have them check their computer listings, they should find it.

Blue Flamer.

I use a knife blade (not a toothed blade) in the jigsaw for homasote and it works well and seems to make slightly less mess.

If I am cutting just the Homasote board, I use a box cutter. If I am going to use it on large areas ( Like the staging yard in my previous, post on this thread) I screw it to the half inch plywood base, turn it upside down, take it outside and cut it with a scroll saw with the plywood side up and wearing a face mask. Peter Smith, Memphis