The wires on the Atlas Code 83 remote switch machine #584/585 are incredibly thin for about 6 inches in length. What is recommended wire gauge for say about 8 feet from control panel to turnout?
Hi,
I use a lot of wire for accessories and switch machines on my layout.
I’m on my second 500 foot roll of this:
You can buy less or more length, priced accordingly. A 100’ roll is about $30.
22 gauge is easy to work with and will handle most loads for model RR use. The jacket is easy to strip if you want to use individual strands.
There is solid “thermostat” wire in 18 gauge but I prefer stranded. 18 is getting on the heavy side.
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Wire-Thermostat-Wires/N-5yc1vZc57f
Hope that helps, Ed
Ed -
That helps. Most discussions about wire gauge relate to track power.
Thank you,
Mark
I would use the 22 GA solid wire from the same company as posted above because the Atlas machines I use are for Code 100 track. Also, many of my turnouts are crossovers or have signals, I use a terminal block from the area of the switch from the switch to the terminal block and then to my control panels as I use push buttons.
Neal
Ed -
Why 22-4 wire and not 22-3 For Atlas 3 wire machines? Do you have use for the fourth wire or is it just more economical/available?
Thanks
Fourth wire can come in handy for frog polarity power.
It should be borne in mind that the main power wire for all three wire double solenoid switch motors can be tied into one bus wire. Only the two reversal wires need separate circuits back to the actuating switch so a two wire conductor is most useful.
I use old-style four-conductor phone wire which I get from Home Depot.
If you’re concerned about getting enough power to your twin-coil machines, get a capacitive discharge circuit. Not concerned? Get a CD circuit anyway. It will also protect your machines in case a toggle switch sticks and keeps delivering power in what should be a momentary contact.
4 conducioter is more common than 3, in the smalelr sizes anyway.
One place NOT to get wire - the hobby shop. Most will have small spools of 3 conductor that may even match the colors on the Atlas switch motors. But the price per foot works out to some ridiculously high number.
–Randy
Yes, as Randy says it is more common. I usually leave whatever unused conductors unstripped but I tightly wrap them around the end of the jacket in case I’ll ever need them in the future.
For short runs, say under three feet I pull the conductors out of the jacket and use them separately. Saving the short lengths comes in handy when you want to put lighting in structures and in some cases used for track feeders.
Regards, Ed
Yes, fit a CDU. These switch motors don’t draw much current but they work better if the current they do need arrives asap and all at once. Short duration but big effect is what throws these motors best. Small gauge wire is all you need if you fit a CDU
[quote user=“Lastspikemike”]
Yes, fit a CDU. These switch motors don’t draw much current but they work better if the current they do need arrives asap and all at once. Short duration but big effect is what throws these motors best. Small gauge wire is all you need if you fit a CDU
[/quote
Mike -
Okay you sold me on the CDU. So I did what anyone would do and asked Amazon for a Capacitve Discharge Unit and apparently they are not “blinker oil”, but I have no idea what kind, capacity etc that I need to do this. Do you have any suggestions as to an economical source for these, an article on their use and installation etc. Do I need one for each turnout or each control panel switch? I really appreciate everybody offering the help.
Mark
Thank you!
Peco makes a nicer looking CDU which is also easier to connect up.
https://peco-uk.com/products/capacitor-discharge-unit
I have one of each. They both work in the same way. The Peco innards are enclosed in a nice Matt black case.
One CDU will throw two switch motors concurrently with ease. If you don’t have a yard ladder with multiple switch motors to throw concurrently one CDU will feed all your turnout motors. You wire it at the accessory power output and run the power wire (the black common wire for Atlas, its green for Peco motors ) out to your common wire for all switch motors. The power route back should be connected to the common wire on your activating switches. The left and right positions then route that power from the CDU to the center common wire on the turnout motor, back to either the left or right activating switch position, through that switch and back to the other pole on the CDU. If convenient you can imagine the power flowing the “other” way depending on your view of current:electron flow or hole flow. The key is to treat the CDU as a two wire extension of your two accessory power connections.
Diagram in this link:
http://www.blocksignalling.co.uk/index.php/capacitor-discharge-unit-cdu1c-cdu2c-cdu4c
Working with stranded wire and Atlas switch machines in N-scale is a hassle. Solid wire works so much easier and 22ga wire of either build is fine.
Hello All,
After doing a little digging several sources list the Atlas five conductor ribbon wire as 26 AWG.
Hope this helps.