What is the best size turn outs to use for a Switching yard?

Hi as all can see I am new this is my first post I have been looking around this site for the last few days ( doing alot of searching) trying to find the information on yards and the correct turn outs to use but with no luck… so I am finally getting the time and the chance to build my first layout ( HO scale ) since my last 4x8 layout back in the 70’s I am very excited I know this will be a big learning experience for me but I think I am ready for it…so my question is what size of turn outs is best suited for yards I was told #4 were the best but I have read that some use #6’s any info would be greatly appreciated

I would suggest using the highest # frog you can make room for. All of your equipment will look better and operate smoother on a #8 or a #6 compared to a #4 frog. If you are modeling the 1970’s, youl could have 6 axle locomotives and some cars could be as long as 89 scale feet.

What size is the area you have available for your layout or yard? What type of equipment will you be using? More information provided by you will help the forum members give you helpful answers.

(Edit: I misread your original post refering to your last layout in the 70’s and thought you were modeling the 70’s. Sorry for any confusion I might have caused.)

Don Z.

I am glad you feel confident enough to ask your question here. I guess that means we passed your test![:)] Welcome!

Personally, I would start with #6 turnouts…for a couple of reasons. First, they are more forgiving generally in that they allow you to use longer passenger cars when switching, maybe autoracks if you will have them, and longer engines do better. This is a generaly rule, though, since your own engines and rolliing stock may be perfectly happy on #4 turnouts…so , it depends. Secondly, you can use your #6 turnouts in any yard that you are likely to build in the future because they will handle virtually any locomotive that you are likely to encounter.

Having said all that, #6 turnouts will require you to have a bigger yard due to their angles for a given yard plan. If you don’t have the real estate, then you’ll have to use #4’s. So, it is a matter of give and take. The #6’s, if they last over time, can be used in future layouts with possibly much larger engines than you are likely to use at first. They also eat up more space.

I hope that helps, and thanks for your vote of confidence in us.

Thanks for the replies I appreciate the info…well as far as space goes I am using a spare bedroom that is not that big 10x12 so I built a few tables to go around the room (modular type shaped in a U) so the yard will be placed on the back side of the room but will only be about 8 ft long… I have just purchased 8 more Peco #4 (small) (16 total) insulated turnouts with the unerstanding that these were the best to use in yards but after reading the replies I see that I made a mistake I do have a few passenger trains and stack cars and some fairly big locomotives (2 CSX AC6000’s) so the #6 (medium) would probable serve me best all around… so what are the Small Peco turn outs used for? did I just waste money of them or can I put them to use ? as far as what era I am modeling that is still up in the air I have been collecting most of the old lines that make up CSX and have picked up a variety of items over the last 27 years from train shows and different locations that I have been stationed… I recently just found the forums and am familiar on how things on forums go so I decided to use the search first to see if I could find the info I was looking for I must say this there is alot of great information on this forum I found this weekend alone and have seen that things have changed alot over the years for Model railroading (some of my old Trains from the 70’s will just have to stay in boxes) but the good thing is that it is only 1 box

The small Pecos would work OK for 4 axle locos and small steam.(0-6-0, 2-6-2) Shorter rolling stock. (40’-50’) Older era stuff. Keep in mind that long passenger cars and big 6 axle diesels won’t look right on curves as tight as 22" radius. Most will work but they won’t look right.

Im using Kato Unitrack number 4’s for the ladder itself where only the switcher goes. The M1a that I have been working with lately scrapes horribly through there with it’s long wheelbase.

I will be using number 6 Katos equipted with 34" radius curveouts for the big stuff on the Arrival/Departure tracks and on the main. I could probably do well with bigger switches like number 8 and up but dont have the room for that here.

The scenario that I see is the Reading T1 arrives with a freight onto the number 6’s for the arrival track. It then uncouples from the train and heads for the roundhouse. The switcher then takes the caboose and stores it and proceeds to classifiy the train on the storage tracks where the number 4 switches are. When everything is finished and a new train is built up on the departure track, the T1 comes out along the number 6’s fully serviced and turned for it’s return trip.

That is how I see it with different size switches.

Some of them may be useless to you, but I wouldn’t discard them just yet. The reason is that in future layouts, if not this one still, you will want tight team track switching, turnouts in the middle of streets for trolleys…it could happen…or even mine or logging switching in the mountains around rock outcroppings that require tight turns. In these cases, you would be using box cars and switchers possibly shoving the cars to be loaded or to be picked up with “reachers” around those corners and throught tight turnouts. The “reachers” are merely a series of one or more other cars between the engine and the cars to be pulled/spotted at the loading docks. The reachers would be used by larger engines, though, as the smaller switchers generally wouldn’t have any issues with #4’s.

BLinny,

What is your longest piece of rolling stock? 50’ and under: #4s. Over 50’: #5s or #6 - i.e. if you have room. It really depends on how big your layout is going to be.

Tom

Thanks alot for all the great information I really appreciate it alot it is going to get me heading in the right direction so the #4 are not a total loss I can put them to use that is a relief… since I am limited on space for this layout I am going to take my time to thik this out …but I did get a chance last night to test out the Digitrax system I have with a Broadway limited ( SW-7) Loco and man it is great but again thanks alot for the great info

What are you planning to use the yard for? If you’ll be putting passenger cars in, then the longer turnouts are adviseable. However, if it’s a freight yard only, then you will be switching shorter rolling stock. (Yeah, those auto-racks are long, but are you running those?) Also, chances are you won’t be switching the yard with 6-axle road engines, but rather 4-axle switchers.

The Peco turnouts will be just fine for industrial sidings off your main line, as long as the main goes down the straight path.

As you design your track plan, you’re going to find that it’s pretty hard to put #6 turnouts and large-radius curves into a small room. It’s an unfortunate compromise, but most of us have to live with it. I’m very constrained by space, and I built my yard using a pair of Peco 3-way turnouts to save space. They too are short-radius, and maybe not very prototypical, but the space savings are substantial.

Blinny7, Modern equipment looks and performs OK on #6’s but looks and performs lot better on #8 or larger. However, where you are using 4 axle switchers and road switchers (RS2 or 3, GP7 or 9’s) use the #4’s for industrial spurs and supply tracks (coal, sand , fuel oil, etc) with standard 40 and 50 foot cars. I learned the the point to frog distance is longer, thus a larger smoother radius, on Central Valley #9’s than Walther’s #10’s and that is my minimum mainline turnouts and crossovers. I use #8’s for yard ladders and #6’s for service trackage. The occasional #4 or 5 is OK for a tight industrial situation, but not universally. I would vary them for appearances. If you are doing a sectional layout, consider just doing one end of the yard properly for now with the plan of doing the other end to mate in the future when more space becomes available, eh? Enjoy! jc5729 John Colley, Port Townsend, WA