Mine is a simple 2by 4 with wooden end blocks ,powered by an ancient KF CB50 that I picked up at a local thrift store for a few dollars.Works well for me! 
pnc near me now
Mine is roughly 24" long and outfitted with several roller bearing stands, which allows me to test or break-in a locomotive stationary. I use alligator clips to connect the track to either my NCE Power Cab (DCC) or my DC power supply.
Tom
Nice !(I really like that brass boxcab but zi think that it is weird that it is powered by springs but better than the old Atherarn rubber band drive!)I gave a set of four Bachmann rollers like that and they work ,but I don’t like the fact that the magnets that hold it to the track are rather weak .
I just have a scrap of 1/2" plywood with piece of track approximately 15 inches long. Enough to move back and forth, not much else. If I need or want to do more, I’ve got a loop of sectional track I just put on the dining room table.
Control and programing is supplied via an Arduino and JMRI.
The ones pictured are from Micro-Mark. They are a friction-fit between the rails. The Bachmann version I find convenient underneath tenders because they are easier to reposition.
Tom
My layout is close to my workbench so I use it to do the the testing. I have a $2 tyco power pack for testing motors and stuff.
Hey whatever works !
Attached above the work bench working area is 6’ of HO code 100 NS track compleat with two rearailer nailed down to cork roadbed on a wood shelf with Hayes style wheel stops attached at each end of the rail backed up by soft foam on a wood block. DCC electric power, Lenz system, is ran through a double pole double throw center off bat switch (always in the ‘‘off’’ position till I want the test track powered) to have “program” or “main” power. I have those stationary run-in-place roller bearing testing items that look like what Tstage has (may be Bachmann, IDNR?).
I just use a 3 foot section of flextrak and a thriftstore MRC power-pack connected with whatever wires I happen to have lying around.
Totall cost … about 5 bucks.
All that you need but the DCS guys need a more elaborate set up .
Not really. DCC, DCS, or DC all require a wire to each rail and alligator clips work just great for hooking up any one of those to your test track. Disconnect them from one power source to a different power source and you’re ready to go. Simple.
Tom
It had the original box and it is marked Philadelphia 33 so she is pushing 60 years old but still works fine. 
slender man wallpaper
I don’t have a pic, but… our club/museum has a pair of 6’-or-so tracks. One is plain hand-laid rail (no ties) and connects to our old home-built DC power supply and an NCE throttle (funny 'cause we’re a Digitrax club). A switch on the old power supply toggles between DC and DCC. Next to it is another track which is connected to the DCC programming computer (running Decoder Pro).
Aaron
I do exactly the same thing, but I have two 3’ sections of track. One can be powered by a DC throttle or my NCE Powercab and the other is used when I am using my Lokprogrammer. I just put the bare tracks on my workbench or my computer desk.
However, I need to get my butt in gear and install at least one loop on my long neglected layout so I can do some speed matching and other programming without being limited by the short pieces of track.
Cheers!!
Dave
Test track by Bear, on Flickr
And an old Hornby 12V power pack.
Cheers, the Bear.[:)]
For about 25 years, I’ve used a 3 ft “1x4” with a strip of code 100 track and an Atlas bumper on either end. The track is set on cork roadbed and the whole thing is painted grey.
The track is wired to two thumb screw terminals set on one end of the board, which allows quick change from an RMC DC pack to a Digitrax DCC controller.
This unit is obviously very portable and when in use I have an NMRA coupler guage and a set of 6 rollers - which were expensive, but definitely worthy.
One thing I used this test track for was “rollability” of cars. I would put a 1/2 or 3/4 inch block under one end, and set cars on the high end to see if they rolled - or not. It worked well for me, assuring that every car had similar rolling ability.
I have never had a test track on my workbench. I use some Kato Unitrack set up on either the dining room table or the kitchen counter.
-Photograph by Kevin Parson
This has worked well for me.
-Kevin
Mine is about the same but unpainted and gotten second hand from an estate of someone who used them at train shows, originally had all the smaller scales including TT.
This is a great forum topic and one that has not been much explored.
I think that a lot depends upon what the user expects to accomplish with a “test track” on the work bench. As several replies have already indicated, a strip of flextrack connected to a power source is basic and may suffice if the purpose of the test track is merely to test whether a locomotive runs forward and backward and the lights work.
A set of rollers is extremely useful in order to run a locomotive in place and a real space saver as opposed to trying to test on 10 or 20 feet of track.
One thing that I do since I run a DCC layout is to leave the power off and clip two wires from a DC power pack to the mainline when testing newly acquired DCC Ready locomotives.
Whenever I have a need to test a DCC powered locomotive, I do it on the layout and I often use a set of rollers to run the locomotive in place. I test decoders using a Decoder Tester and then I program the decoder on the Programming Track supplied with my system.
So, that is how I address the issue of a test track on the work bench.
Something that I fantasize over but have yet to do is to setup what I call a “test lab” on the work bench. My layout is powered by an NCE PH-Pro 5 amp wireless DCC system. I yearn to purchase a Power Cab to test not only locomotives but also signal systems and route automation on a DCC powered mini-layout on a sizeable work bench. Right now, I have to experiment with such testing on my main layout which means that I have to cease normal operations to do testing.
Rich
Hello All,
Mine is a 30-inch piece of 1"x4" with three 9-inch sections of straight track. The center piece is a rerailer.
On one end two (2) wires are soldered to each rail, the opposite end has two (2) wires soldered to the rails with a connector to attach an MRC Decoder Dr.
A Digitrax PR3 is connected via the other two (2) wires, which is connected to my Mac Mini; via a USB cable, running DecoderPro.
This setup is more of a programming track rather than a “Test Track.”
My DCC system is an NCE Power Pro, but I don’t use the “Programming Track” outputs from the command station/booster.
If I need DC power I have a Bachmann DC controller with alligator clips. I disconnect the wires at the PR3 and clip them to the DC controller.
The DC controller can also test motors before installation.
To calculate the stall current I can attach a multi-meter between the DC controller and the motor, with a jumper wire with alligator clips on both ends.
I have considered rollers for breaking in locomotives but have never gotten around to purchasing them. I just run the locomotive(s) around the “mainline” of my 4’x8’ pike.
Hope this helps.