I am making a new control panel. I want to control all powered turnouts from one location. I will have 30 toggle switches which need 1/4 " holes and 60 LED lights that need 3/16" holes. My facia is hardboard but it doesn’t make real clean holes.
I haven’t determined the exact size yet, probably about 16x20 or 16x24. I thought of dark plexiglass but my son says it is to easy to shatter when drilling holes.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Your son is correct. However back in 1978 I picked up a 2x12 piece of smoked plexiglass for $5.00. This was part of a IBM computer trade show exhibit. It is still in use today with hundreds of holes drilled, mini toggle switches mounted, and Atlas electronic control devices mounted. As I remember use a very sharp bit, start out slow, let the bit do the work, apply minimal pressure. One of the first holes I drilled in this did result in a crack in the plastic which is camoflauged with a 9"x12" PRR metal sign. It is mounted vertically to the 2x4 bench work. I use Dymo label maker to identify the many switches. If changes are made, these labels can be removed easily. Holes for both wire to pass through and mounting Atlas electronic components with miniature brass wood screws have been drilled successfully. Plexiglass has served me well for 38 years and now resides on my second and final layout. Give it a try and best of luck
I think, but do not know for a fact, that acrylic sheets are less prone to cracking. Worth looking into.
Polystyrene sheets are pretty cheap, I think I paid around $26 for a 4x8. Glue that to a piece of masonite and you have solved your roughness around holes in hardboard.
I followed a MR article in early 2012, which described how to make a panel with a piece of sheet aluminum. I’ll have to check, think it was 11/64". I Googled a supplier, where you just order the exact dimensions you want. I think it was about $15, plus shipping. Worth it to me as the project took some time and was easy with the aluminum.
I drew my schematic on graph paper and used that to mark the turnout and indicating LED spots needed to be, then drilled the holes. Then primed it and painted it white. Then drew my diagram on the white and used pinstriping to mask the track schematic, then painted black, making a white track diagram. The DPDTs fit in readily, and I used one of the 2-piece LED holders as an insert for the LEDs, which simply force fit into same. I sprayed a coat of semi-gloss clear over it when done, wiping off the LEDs and toggle handles. I also modified it successfully, easier with additions than deletions; i.e., I did not need to fill any unneeded holes.
Another vote for Acrylic. I built my control panel with 1/16” Plexiglas and .04” thick Aluminum. I sandwiched a CAD drawing between the Plexiglas and the Aluminum so that it is easy to change the printed layout when I add things to the panel. You have to be carful drilling and cutting the Plexiglas as it will crack easily, I bought a plastic drill bit and it makes perfect holes.
Plas-Drill Bits by Craftics.
If you’re interested I have a post on my blog about my last control panel overhaul where I replaced both the Aluminum and Plexiglas panels.
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/2015/05/may-10-2015-remodling-my-control-panel.html
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
Thank you very much for the suggestions, this will help us alot.
Wiki says they are ALL the same. In the motorcycle windscreen world (and small aircraft) they ARE NOT and it is a hot button. The concern there, is does it turn to sharp shards as you pass through it. There is said to be much false advertising.
Unless you are talking about polycarbonate, which goes under the trade names of Lexan® Makrolon® and others. I worked with lots of this stuff making guards and shatterproof shields.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycarbonate
I was fortunate to be able to have the scraps to use on the model RR. It makes excellent edge guarding so rolling stock doesn’t fall to the floor. You can bend it cold, I have even made 90° bends using a sheet metal brake. It is easy to sand and cut using woodworking tools (at slower feeds).
Some larger home center stores will have polycarbonate.
Plexiglas® is Acrylic. It will snap and splinter like a dry chicken bone. Not the same stuff.
Polycarbonate is used for FRA glazing on railroad equipment to stop rocks (and some bullets).
I have had great success in making panels out of polycarbonate.
Good luck, Ed
I’ve used Plexiglas for years and it will crack very easily if you’re not careful. I’ve never had it “turn to sharp shards as you pass through it” in over twenty years. A standard ¼” high speed drill bit can and will crack Plexiglas if you are not careful, drill with very little pressure. Plexiglas will drill easer without cracking if you walk the hole up starting with smaller drill bits.
I have not had a Plastic Drill bit crack Plexiglass. Plexiglas is temperamental but it does turn out very nice when handled correctly. If you have a small but livable crack stop the crack with a small hole. Start where the crack stops by drilling a #60 or smaller hole at the very end of the crack and the smooth edge of the new hole will stop the crack from advancing.
Mel
Hi williamsb
I make my control panels out of aluminium sheet.
I paint it light blue like the local signal panels I use coloured auto pin stripe.
To represent the track using dk blue and yellow for the up track brown green for down track and black for what would be un Ctt sidings in the real world.
All switches are put in the track markings exept lights and ones that don’t directly apply to train runing these are in a neat row and marked with use at the base of the pannel.
The colours where chosen on the basis that’s what the real railways use where I live, and it stands out from the boriing grey colour I use for facia boards.
I also think its a nice finishing touch if the panels look something like a real signal panel.
Just make sure what ever you decide to do its neat tidy and easy to follow
regards John
I use Lexan which is available in different size sheets at Home Depot and other big box stores.
I start with a pilot hole using a very small drill bit, then move to a reamer to finish the hole. No cracks, no fuss.
Rich
To get clean holes drilled in hardboard, I assume you’re referring to tempered hardboard, aka, Masonite, put a piece of wood (2x4 or 1x4) underneath when drilling.
Hardboard will work, that’s what I make mine out of.
I’m not big on fancy panels, I just need functional. Be sure to use tempered hardboard. It’s not mushy like the untempered.
Another trick is to drill the hole slightly undersized for the intended object that fills it. Then use a tapered ream to open the hole to the exact size needed. This will give you nice smooth edges.
I have used a piece of laminated masonite of the back of on old cupboard cut to size…
Cheap and practicle…
I used .08" aluminum for my panels that I got from a sign shop and they cut it to size for me. It comes painted on both sides with white enamel. I like it because it is easier to drill than Plexiglas and it won’t shatter or split at the holes (you really need special drills for acrylic; don’t remember what tip angle it is?). It is very strong and could actually be used to carry power to the LED’s if you wanted. I had my large panel (Harmon Yard as shown) printed at a local print shop (did artwork in Corel Draw) as it was too big for my home printer. I cemented it to the aluminum and then drilled all the holes. I spray mine with Dulcote for some additional protection but could have used a clear laminate film also. My smaller panels I print at home and use the same procedure but laminate with the clear film before drilling the holes.
-Bob
For a smaller control panel I did something very simple. Made the track diagram on MS Paint. Had it printed and laminated at Staples then glued it to 1/8" thick plywood and drilled and mounted my toggles that control Tortoises. Very simple and effective.
Mark
I didn’t need fancy, I needed functional. I used 1/8" masonite as I added my own schmatic made out of auto pin stripe tape, mini push buttons to control switches and rotary switches to control the signals for the interlocking panels. 
Neal
Great topic and a lot of very good ideas!
Mel
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/
Bakersfield, California
I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Mine is functional and somewhat fancy. I used tempered masonite for my board and has many holes for switches and lights. My DC layout has 10 blocks with two cabs. The mini toggles are used for cab selection. It also has two 3mm LED’s per switch that indicate which cab is selected. Additionally, I have toggles in staging and at my engine servicing facility where the tracks can be turned on/off independent of the blocks that these areas are located in. So, I have 40 holes in a 7" x 18" piece of tempered masonite, not to mention the 10 holes for the screws that go through to the mounting frame - - no rough edges left from drilling. I first painted the entire board white. I too used auto pin striping to apply the track schematic, then painted the entire board gloss black. I then pulled the tape off, drilled the holes for the toggles and lights. I used decals to label the toggles/blocks, as well as town locations. As a finishing touch, I used some 3/4" leters to identify the railroad itself. After labeling, I sprayed the entire board with a clear gloss coat.
What took the longest was soldering all those tabs (seemed like it took an eternity), then splicing wire onto the wire that is connected to the cabs and track that all runs through an easy to access (behind a removable fascia panel) terminal board. Additionally, the back of the control panel can be accessed easily as well. It is mounted on hinges located at the bottom, so it can be opened so as to swing out flat.
It is worth it, as I now have an easy to operate, easy to control railroad with a control panel that is easy on the eyes.
I used shatter-proof Lexan plastic…the kind used for replacement windows. Left protective covering on both sides when drilling and used carbide drill bits that have a small starting hole tip built into the bit. Used My drill press set at 1000rpm…any further touch-up, was done with a rat tail file, I have many sizes and prefer that over a reamer for doing that. After holes were drilled, everything test fit, I removed the protective coating on both sides, washed both sides and sprayed two coats of original equipment black Automotive paint on the inside of panel. Mounted to piano hinges and installed all controls. At time pic’s were taken, panel was really dirty, had been doing a lot of things…the panels are really shiny! I have three of them, the one in pic’ is 25yrs old.
Take Care! [:D]
Frank
BTW: I run DC…
