After expanding my layout, I need to re-configure the schematic on my control board. The old board is made of 1/8" tempered masonite. I have a piece of Lexan that, with a little cutting, would be perfect. I am concrened, however, that Lexan doesn’t take paint very well; that paint will peel off of it readily. Anybody have any experience with Lexan and its’ ability to take paint? Also, is there any other alternative to using 1/8" tempered masonite? I want this board to be 18 to 19 inches by approximately 6 inches. I’m thinking that 1/8" thick styrene could get a little pricey at this size as well.
I’m not sure how well Lexan takes paint, but if you’re worried about it scratching off, paint the back side. Lay out your schematic using chart tape, spray the background color on, peel off the chart tape and spray the color for the schematic lines.
I’ve also seen people create a schematic using Inkscape (or similar), print it out on a good quality printer, and put that behind Lexan.
Steve S
You might try 1/8 inch cabinet maker’s plywood which you can often get for free if a cabinet shop will give you their offcuts. It can be easily drilled for controls, takes paint well and you can glue molding around the edges to form a frame for a nice finished look. Personally, I draw the track plan on it with a black marker and leave the wood natural. That way if I have to make a change, I just sand off what I’ve drawn and redraw the track plan.
yes you can paint lexan, but with lexan safe paint, r/c cars use lexan bodies.
later
g
I built a control panel from 5/64" aluminum per an article in January 2012 MR. I googled the sheet aluminum and picked a vendor that did custom sizes. Mine is 10" x 15", I’d guess the piece was about $15 and the shipping probably that much as well. I’ve modified it twice (in place) for additions, not very difficult. The photo lacks the latest plan.
One thing I liked about the aluminum was the ability to drill holes close together without worry. Each turnout DPDT has a bicolor position LED next to it, about 7/16" apart.
Hi Tom - Check your local home improvement center. I recovered a 30x40 drafting table for my paint booth/work bench with a sheet of 1/8" white marker board for those who’d want to make their own and frame with door/window moldings. It was in the plywood aisle, 32x48 for under ten bucks at Lowe"s. No painting necessary, nice glossy white finish. Cheap! Commence to draw diagram. no waiting. Paul D
I have used Lexan clear plastic for my three DC control panels, they are, 10’‘x 20’'. Drilled all holes with protective paper still on, on the bottom edge of the panel, I drilled holes to mount a piano hinge to the bottom, so I could mount it to an angle box like fixture that contained all the controls wiring and transformers. I then removed the paper set on flat surface and spray painted the backside with Automotive semi gloss paint, I choose Black. Let it dry for 24 hours. Mounted the panel with brass miniature nuts and bolts on the piano hinge and used Automotive pin stripe tape to layout my track plan on the surface. Then installed my toggles and switch position lites and wiring, also the push buttons for off on power to various components inside. 25 yrs and running flawlessly, I might add. The pin stripe never came off and don’t have to worry about scratched paint from use… I would love to show pictures, but this new software and my Browsers aren’t getting along at the moment, everyday it is something different, going on.
Frank
I used .055 sheet metal whch I don’t recomend. It came out nice but was hard to drill the holes in for the toggle switches.
I am expanding my layout and made a new one from 1/8 Masonite. its 18" x 10".
I use 1/8" masonite as the base, and design the track diagram using Atlas Rightrac freeware, print it on adhesive-backed label paper, which is applied to the base. Next, slowly drill the holes for toggle switches. I cut clear vinyl desk cover material as the cover sheet. I tape the cover material to the panel and cut corresponding holes in the cover with a hobby knife and mount the toggles. Then I frame the panel using bass wood stripwood pre-assembled in L cross-section pieces, lightly glued to the edge of the masonite.
I’ve made several panels this way and found them to be durable and attractive.
Jim
I used 5/32" lauan plywood, since I think it holds screws better thsn masonite. I used 1/16" Chartpak tape to make the track plan. The tape is easily moved /replaced if you need to make changes. With a little practice, you can even make nice, smooth curves with the tape.
I used .080" aluminum with white enamel finsih from a local sign shop, cut to size. It is thick enough to remain flat over a 24" long panel and very easy to drill (and tap if needed for small screws). I made my panel artwork in a graphics program (Coreldraw) and had it printed at a local print shop from a pdf file. I am very satisfied with all my panels. I have another large one for my turntable/roundhouse yard area as well as a few smaller ones at local switching areas.
-Bob
What I did for my control panels may work for and save a lot of effort. I came up with my track diagram on the computer (I use powerpoint). I printed it on cardstock with a laser printer (Laser printer ink doesn’t run if it happens to get wet). I then sandwiched the printout of the track diagram between two pieces of Lexan. You will need to take the backing off the two inside faces before sandwiching it together. I then clamp the whole thing together and drill the holes for the pushbuttons, LED’s, and mounting screws. I mount all the pushbuttons and LED’s. I don’t remove the backing on Lexan until after I mount the panel so I don’t damage the panel during installation. The panels are mounted to my masonite fascia. I have recently added a “frame” around the edge to protect the controls from incidents as I had a pushbutton snap off on one panel.
You can see what I did here.
Thanks for the input, guys!
I tried some paint on the lexan and it seens to take it well. A white base, then chart tape for the schematic, then black paint, then remove the tape. Drill the holes for my toggles, do my labeling, then a coat or two of clear to seal it all. I think that’ll work. I will likely attach the whole thing with some sort of hinged affair to make access easy, just as I did with the old board. I will probably also put my toggles in the board and do all the internal wiring before attaching to the layout. Much easire to do that sort of thing on my work bench than trying to fool with it in place. Any other suggestions would also be welcome. Thanks again!
Another optional material for control panels is MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). This is available at any Home Depot-like place in 4’ x 8’ and 2’ x 4’ sheets, and I’ve seen it from 1/8" thick to 1". It’s smooth on both sides, cuts better than masonite, and is more resistant to moisture. At my club, we use it for fasicas, panels, backdrops and desktops.
Paul A. Cutler III
I used plastic-coated Masonite for mine. This material is sold at home improvement stores as “shower liner” or “tub liner” for bathrooms. Yes, I had to buy a 4x8 foot sheet, but that was only about $9. I’ve found other uses for it, like covers for my subways and bases for liftoff sections.
I made a frame with 1x2 lumber, and used a router to notch the inside corners so that the panel itself sits flush with the frame. Stain and polyurethane to match the benchwork face gives it a finished look.
I use automotive pinstripe tape to “draw” the track schematic.
Here is panel of LION. Is 12" x 72". It will be printed on cardstock using a color laser printer. It will be glued to 1/8th inch masonite using silicone caulk… this does not curl or damage the paper and permits some movement of each section to make a perfect alighment.
This modelboard will have no switches on it, but will have about 60 LEDs on it to mark train movements. I will use bright white focused 1mm LEDs on the mane lion, and Yellow LEDs on the layup tracks. Yard tracks do not have modelboard indication.
I am sort of ready to build that modelboard now, but I will put it off until the summer time, since it is a project that I can do in my air conditoned office, and not the pizza oven above the library.
Since the model board will be well above my head level, and completly ot of reach, I’ll not worry about the graphics being defaced by wear.
On previous layout I used masonite, painted green, and applied the route to the panel in the form of 1/8" x 1/8" bass wood strips. It was easy to change routes: just chissel off the old route, repair the board, and glue on the new route. Holes could be filed up with modeling clay and painted with the same green paint.
ROAR
Jim, I havedecided to use a similar material. It’s 1/8" cabinet grade alder, which a friend and fellow modeler, who makes cabinets commercaily, gladly gave me. I am, however, going to paint it and do the chart tape thing because I believe I can sand that off and re-use it in that event. Thanks for the tip!