Getting close to handlaying track, and I see there are two choices in buying RR ties. “Full profile” and “low profile”. My layout is in the 50’s, so what should I purchase. Also, there is a choice of tie length, which I need advise on.
Thanks, Hal
Getting close to handlaying track, and I see there are two choices in buying RR ties. “Full profile” and “low profile”. My layout is in the 50’s, so what should I purchase. Also, there is a choice of tie length, which I need advise on.
Thanks, Hal
Hal
The low and regular profile have nothing to do with the prototype. The low profile ties are meant to save on ballast - need less of it if the ties aren’t as deep. Disadvantage of the low profile is if the ends of the ties are visible - then it doesn’t look as realistic. And the prototype uses even deeper - generally square ties - on bridges and trestles.
When hand-laying track, I always sand the tops of the ties after gluing them down and ballasting, but before spiking rail. I sand until the stain/color is sanded from the lowest tie using a 6 inch long sanding “boat” made from a 1x2 with the ends rounded. By doing this, I ensure I have a smooth surface in the vertical plane upon which to lay my rail. It takes out any irregularities in the thickness of ties, glue, and/or roadbed. Due to the sanding, I am already lowering the profile of my ties, so I use regular profile.
Tie size has grown over the years. I believe the 9ft long, 7x9 inch ties in current use were also standard in the '50s, but I could be wrong. In the 1870s, 8ft long, rough hewn (about as small as 5x7 inches) and untreated were common. Also, tie spacing has varied over the years, and with the rail size and track use. Turnouts have variable tie spacing, with ties closer together under critical parts of the turnout.
Finding and studying photographs of track is very useful!
yours in track laying
Fred Wright
Fred:
Thanks so much. I was afraid no one was going to respond. You have helped a lot, and I’m ready to lay ties now.
Hal