I’m getting ready to build a “just off the layout” all purpose test track area. It seems it should include:
A 2’-3’ track for programming DCC locomotives and decoders
A DPDT center switch to flip the track between run and programming
A mounted ruler along one edge to measure lengths of cars
A Postal scale for weighing cars and adding weights based on car length
A mounted Kaydee coupler gauge
A NMRA track guage for wheel checks on rolling stock and locos
What other items would you add, so that all rolling stock and locos can be brought up to standard before introducing them to the layout? Should an incline of some sort be used to check how the cars roll, or is it unnecessary with the above? Anything to add for regular car maintenance?
I’d consider bashing out a sideways postal scale at one end with a coupler attached, to serve as a way to measure pulling power. I’ve never been able to objectively determine what my locos will pull before wheel-slip, and I think it would be really interesting to know. It would allow you to assess the effect of adding weight or other traction-enhancing techniques. It would also allow you to get a pretty good idea how many standard-weight cars the loco will pull (and give you some basis for deciding to over- standard- or under-weight your cars).
I’d like to see an ammeter and voltmeter on the track too. Good diagnostic tools, particularly if a loco starts acting different than it has before.
I probably wouldn’t do this as part of an all-purpose test track, but perhaps separately. I’ve always thought it would be great to have a longish (4’ at least) track that could be varied in grade to test pulling power.
I’d hinge it on one end, have the other on a sliding support, probably with a bracket and wingnut to raise/lower/lock it in place. I’d put a scale on it measured in percent grade, so I could just “jack it up” to 3% grade and see what I got…
I would put either a table of weights that correspond to length, or change your “ruler” to measure in ounces (i.e. replace the length with the corresponding NMRA recommended weight).
I think that the incline for the roll is redundant. Just give them a flick with your finger and you will see if they roll or not.
You might mount a small tool box or parts container permanently on the board to hold your gauge, some weights (to fix those cars), metal wheels, couplers & parts, etc. The Dollar Store where I live has some great little boxes with 15 interior compartments about 1" square.
One other addition could be a Reboxx “Tool” to ream out the trucks to get better preformance. Also a piece of styrofoam for sticking screwdrivers, Kadee spring picks, tweezers, etc, etc in while working.
If you wanted to get really fancy, you could put a magifier and/or light on it too…
Now it is starting to sound like a full-blown workbench… [;)]
I would add a magnetic tool-holder strip nearby. Great little doohickey. I got a couple from micromark for my tool bench (I’m sure others sell them, couldn’t get it a local HD or hardware store, though). I’ve put aside about 75% of my pegboard pins in favor of this - much easier and more flexible.
An easier way to check the pulling power of an engine is to use a Digital Fish Scale. This is desigened so the fisherman can hang the fi***o check the weight.
I just laid the scale on its back and made a bracket to keep the scale from moving. I then attached a Katee Coupler to the hook end and just attach the Kadee to the engine and start pulling. I had a swinging bracker to keep the kadee level and at the proper height so it would not have to be held until the engine begins pulling.
I added a rerailer to my test track as a wheel cleaner. I cut out slots for a Handy Wipe to weave over the rails, and put some cleaner on the wipe. I had some really nasty wheels and it really cleaned em up nicely.
A re-railer section makes it easier to put the cars / locos on the track.
A Kadee uncoupling magnet with space on either side for coupler testing. The gauge is also necessary, but with a magnet you can check functionality, too.
A section specifically for wheel cleaning. This can be as simple as a handy supply of alcohol and paper towels, or as fancy as one of those roller-equpped gadgets.
Wow! You guys have given me some additional great ideas. Short of making it a full work bench, all of this stuff makes great sense. Thanks so much! Feel free to add to the list if others have ideas.
Did anyone say a Kadee uncoupler?
Add track beyond the turnout to make a passing siding; this gives you a little S curve.
A very small tunnel portal built to just clear the NMRA gauge or whatever your minimum clearance is.
A little clamp to hold the paper towel or whatever you use for wheel cleaning.
This was ansered in detail. But just a thought of what I did. I made a mini bookcase test strand 4 in wide xapprox 24 in long, with the top at eye level sitting at my work bench.
The base is a piece of old mop board style trim, the groves hold parts, pencils ect. Each mini shelf is the height of pill bottles ( why do we old people have so meny…LOL) for kadies ect, The top has an uncoupler under the track, finger flipping is O.K. but I want to see what they actually do, a two rerailers. At each end of the track is a small piece of foam pipe insulation, so the cars wont bang aganst a hard thing.
What I really like is that its portable, out of the way when not in use, but can be taken to the kitchen table to tune up cars and watch a ball game, the down side is that I have to send my wife shopping to use that area…John
I recently bought the Truck Tuner from Micro mark and tuned all of my rolling stock trucks. I even did the new rolling stock while assembling. I took several at random and pushed them down the track to get an idea of distance tuned the trucks and tried again. It was not very scientific but it was obvious that it made a difference. I use all metal wheels as well. They are kind of steep at ten bucks but I think worth it. It will last forever unless you lose it as it is kind of small. I need to paint it red or something. It’s a bear to find when I have a cluttered workbench.
Terry[8D]
I built an 8 ft. portable test track using Shinohara HO/Hon3 dual gauge track so I could test both. I can use my Kadee height gauge for couplers. Also have leads to run DCC or DC. Nothing real fancy, just something use for general maintenance and for test running, etc…
Here’s a few photos:
The loco on the test track is Division Point K27 equipped with a Digitrax Decoder and Soundtrax, runs like a fine Swiss Watch, wish everything ran like these little beauties. The other steamer is a BLI 2-8-2 Light Mikado WP #310, just keeps on running and sounds good too.
If space is not an issue, consider making that test track a simple loop. Wire it with a DPDT switch and DC and DCC. This way you can break in those new locos (DC) then add the decoder and test/Tweak/Config (DCC).
