I would like to know if there is a base I should use on the plywood before I lay roadbed and track.
I beleive I have heard of half inch stiff insulation sheets, yet I would like some other options.
Thanks.
Tiege
Tiege, many of us use Homasote over the plywood. Homasote is a recycled paper product used as wall board I think. MRR has had many articles on this.
It takes paint and scenery products well.
Dan*
I have used foam and homasote but find that regular ceiling tile (white face down) works really well and is a lot cheeper. It dampens the sound, takes paint and glue well and can be carved and cut out with a utility knife. You might be able to buy broken or cut-off pieces even cheeper. I also use spray mount glue (rubber cement) to tack the track down until I decide on the final arrangement. Then I push a 1/2" track nail into each hole. The ballast and glue holds it all together. I also solder each rail joint just to be safe.
Using the foam insulation sheets allow you to sculpt and shape the land for scenic effects without having to cut holes in the plywood for things like ditches or streams. Operationally it shouldn’t make any difference, and many modelers use flat pieces of plywood for areas such as yards or towns. I’m using the foam and skipping the plywood for my shelf layout, but in that instance, the sections are small and I want them to be light and portable.
Tom C.
There are several ways you might go: 1) keep the plywood base and glue track right on it - not really recommended; 2) keep the plywood and add cork strips or (my personal perference) - Woodland Scenics foam strips for track roadbed. 3) keep the plywood and glue blue or pink foam board to it (which you can cut or carve for scenery) and glue or tack the track to it; 4) use something like ceiling tiles on the plywood instead of the foam board.
I think foam board is great. I use 3/4" extruded foam board over masonite (the masonite is fine for me since I’m building 2x4 N scale modules). The foam board can be carved, cut, and sculpted in just about any way you can imagine using a variety of common tools. Just be sure you get extruded foam board (pink & blue commonly available in 4x8 sheets) and not the white beaded stuff. The white stuff is like an old styrofoam coffee cup and is really only good for filler.
I am personally a big fan of cork as a roadbed and have had no problems thus far. It lays easily and with the right touch the tracks look quite realistic.
Avoid homosote or similar products in climates where there are major changes in humidity (including the northeast). Homosote expands and contracts a great deal and will buckle. Foam and cork seem to be ok in this regard.
Hi. I’m just getting into HO steam, just bought my grid and table wood. Your “ceiling tile” suggestion sounds like a good idea. Do you mean the 12" square stuff,or are there bigger pieces available? Also, I just retired last year, and am trying to get something running with out waiting a couple of years to get all the balast and scenery done. What type of track do you use? How do you “glue” it to the tiles? I’m also thinking about DCC, which I don’t know much about. Any suggestions on that? What Locos do you think are the best for the money (not brass). Thanks for your input. My e-mail is wilkedw@bellsouth.net.