LOL, you don’t like bright brass? It does stand out doesn’t it, mine is going to be painted blue with some Ontario Northland Chevron decals added to it.
'Taint necessarily so. Perhaps it depends on the solvent, perhaps the method of application, perhaps the degree or type of dirt/crud/etc.
I use acetone with my Clean Machine, about once every 18 months. I pull it with a diesel loco (rather than push). I run it once on a section of layout, perhaps a hundred feet. Then clean the wheels on the CMX and put on a new pad. Then run it again, and the track passes the “white glove” test.
Then I repeat for another section, etc., until done. Doesn’t take long, even on my fairly large layout.
As always, your mileage may vary!
Yeah, you don’t have to worry about losing it on the layout. Post some pictures once you paint it. Maybe we could start a thread of pictures of the Clean Machines decked out with paint, decals etc…
I’ve been using Tony’s Trains HO scale CMX both at home and at my Model RR Club with sensational results. See http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/cmx_chemist_review.htm for an on-line review.
A word of caution: some cleaners, like acetone, which does a great job, will melt plastic wheels. Also, Micro Mark has a product # 81745 Wheel & Track Cleaner". I haven’t tried it but their products are generally pretty good.
I have tried most of the popular ones and the CMX with Denatured Alcohol does the best job for me. They are expensive but well worth it. The only one that I have ever seen work consistently.
This subject continues to arise periodically. I have tried a lot of track cleaning solutions (pun intended). I am now using the following:
- A track cleaning train made by “Lux-Modellbau”, a German firm. This includes a motorized scrubber car and a vacuum car. It works very effectively on built up dirt, especially in tunnels that are hard to get to. However, having European flanges it will not work on rail less than code 83. It is somewhat pricey (two cars equal cost of a good BLI loco). The scrubber car is great and doesn’t derail like some other motorized cleaners. The vacuum car was a real surprise – I didn’t think it would be worthwhile, but the amount of crud it picks up (I have a typical midwestern basement with concrete floors and a zoo of spiders and crickets during the warmer months) is truly impressive. Strongly recommended. Both units come in a variety of configurations for DC and DCC.
- Spur tracks with small rail. Bright boy abrasive eraser and elbow grease.
- And the best track cleaning fluid BY FAR is available from “Fricko” (Walthers has it) called Dr. Bonzola’s Oil (I think the name may have changed since the last time I bought it). A few drops here and there around the layout will enhance conductivity. Be sure to put a bit in front of engines that haven’t run in a while to clean their wheels also. I find that this stuff can be used sparingly around the layout with outstanding results. A bottle will last nearly forever (I have a pretty large layout), so long as you don’t knock it over! I’ve used this stuff for 20+ years, including with a former CTC32 command control system that was very demanding of clean track. Every time I’ve tried something else, I’ve come back to Bonzola Oil.
Don’t forget wheel cleaning, which Bonzola Oil will help with. Clean track can quickly be dirtied by wheels. (Lux has a wheel cleaner that can be substituted for a piece of straight track – i
I use an A-Line car with Goo Gone on the roller. Seems to work pretty well, but I am also thinking that two cleaning cars would be better than one! The finance department has given some thought toward the CMX car. And by the sounds of it here, it’s had good reviews
Would Goo Gone work in the car too? Seems to me that acetone and perhaps even denatured alcohol could be a bit harsh.
I’ve tried Goo-Gone on a Centerline roller car and it seems to leave a sticky film that just attracts more dirt. If you use Goo-Gone and then run a finger along the rail after it evaporates, you will see a black streak from the gunk that Goo-Gone dissolved but didn’t remove.
I can add nothing new to the track cleaning discussion but no mention has been made of the “dirt” that sometimes falls between the rails. Occasionally I have a car from wich the coupler falls off or from which the bolster screw has worked itself loose and fallen between the rails. I found that the small round magnet that is in the conus of (cheap) headphones is so powerfull that it pick s up all metal objects. I bought a number of 2 euro (about $ 2.50) headphones,removed the conusmagnets and glued these under a couple of cabooses (cabeese?). A dash of black paint and they are almost invisible.
On the advice here given i have ordered a CMX clean machine car for 109$.(walthers is having a sale) I hope it is as good as it sounds. I have ahd real problems in the past with my track getting dirty real quick so I hope it helps.
Lillen
Thats a great idea Nieuweboer, I’ve built a “magnet car” as well. The first time I used it I was very surprised with all the junk it picked up.
Yep, good move! I haven’t ever seen a post by anybody who was disappointed with one.
But do be sure to also clean all your wheels at the same time, or they’ll immediately start transferring crud (technical term) back to your track. And if you have any plastic wheels, strongly consider replacing them with metal. In my experience, they stay much cleaner for much longer.
I’m in the procces of changing my entire layout. Including cars. In the future all wheels will be of metal. I’m tired of some crap I bought that have riden very well on the tracks. So on my new layout tracks will be better and cleaner and all the new stuff will be high quality.
I’ll let you know my verdict on the CMX. I didn’t think a 109$ was very much if is as good as you claim.
Lillen
Please be very carefull using Acetone as it is very flamable. It will ignite below room temperature if a spark occurs.
I model in HO and I find the Trackman 2000 does a very good job.
The Inlander
Well people, you can go out and buy the so called track cleaning cars. Be it brass, electronic or what ever. They are all made for one purpose and is is NOT to clean track. It is to sell their product!! When I started my present layout I purchased a large quantity of brass rail track with fiber ties. I was told that if I ever went to DCC that brass track would not work. Well, think about this; nickle silver track can form a deposit that is not a conductor of electricity. Brass track forms a deposit that IS conductive of electricity. ? ? I have over 500 feet of brass rail track on my layout and run DCC with about 25 locomotives. The ONLY track cleaning is done about once a week with a masonite pad mounted under a pair of box cars. Both pads have Corduroy attached with the ‘grain’ running cross wise. The lead car has DENATURED ALCOHOL applied. The second car is run dry. I use Denatured Alcohol as rubbing alcohol has an oil base. I want my rails DRY, not oily to collect dust. These two cars are together to clean the track when required. Possibly once a year, after a summer of not running and the Asian Beatles have presented their marks do I use any kind of track cleaning object. This layout has been in operation for 4 years. If it works in SW Iowa it will work anyplace. PERIOD! Just be sure that you use denatured alcohol, which is available at most pharmacies by ordering it. A pint bottle will run about $6.00 The pads are about $.10 each. A pint wil last you for several years. So save your $$$ on track cleaning cars and each year buy yourself another batch or cars or even a sound locomotive.
Just got a used Centerline (black cast model) cleaning car at club sale for $20 bucks. Works great for me.
Used Goo Gone for the first pass then ran a dry cloth to remove the gunk. (Centerline uses Handy Wipes for cleaning cloths, spend a couple of bucks at a warehouse club and you have a lifetime supply) Made a second wet pass using CRC 2-26, then ran another dry cloth. Track was spotless and my rolling stock wheels have never been cleaner!
I’ve seen a LOT of clubs are using 2-26 on the rails and getting extended periods between cleanings. So far so good but time will tell…
I have been in model railroading since 1955 and I have worked in HO, N, and Z-scales. I have tried many different ways to clean track and here are my suggestions:
There are two kinds of cleaners: dry abrasive and wet. Dry abrasive cleaners like the BRIGHT BOY and simple rubber erasers work well, but you have to have easy access to the track and it can be tedious. There are dry abrasive track cleaning cars, but some of them put a lot of drag on the locomotive. The AZTEC with an offset roller works well for me - I have one in HO, N, and Z-scale. This cleaner produces very little drag and does a “gentle” cleaning of the track. I find that it is best for KEEPING the track clean, not for cleaning really dirty track. The problem with any dry abrasive cleaner is that it cannot deal with any bumps at frogs and points on turnouts. It will not catch at the bumps. but it will end up “skipping” some of the rail surfaces around the bumps. Wet track cleaners have softer surfaces and can deal with bumps better. The CENTER LINE cleaner works well for me. The idea of a roller that is free to roll and slide is not new - I saw this type at various layouts back in the 1950s and 1960. I have an HO and an N scale cleaner. I used the N-scale roller and a Marklyn Gondola to make a Z-scale version. It is not difficult to make your own version of the CENTER LINE cleaner - all you need is a heavy metal cylinder and a plastic freight car body with a hole in the center. (The AZTEC is a far more original idea and would be hard to duplicate.) Liquid versions really do clean very dirty track, but the residue of the cleaner can collect dirt, so I always follow up with a dry roller. In other words, you should use TWO CENTER LINE rollers - one wet and one dry.
By the way: There are electronic devices that send a high voltage spark through the rails when a loco stalls on dirty track. I us
Once a WEEK? And this is supposed to be better? I use my CMX about once every 18 MONTHS! And nothing else (unless I get paint or glue on a section).
I know, conditions (particularly dust & humidity) and usage (such as not running for a month, and/or running plastic wheels) will have a large effect on how often cleaning is required, but once a WEEK? No, thanks. The investment in the CMX was well worth it.
WOW! Some of your theories are so in reverse to what is accepted fact.Where do I start???
-
BRASS track conducts electricity better than nickel silver because it has more copper, but it tarnishes, and (tarnish) blocks electrical flow. If one keeps their track scrubbed, it works fine, as do metal wheels’ persistant usage.
-
NICKEL SILVER IS A nicklel compound (with no silver in it) . The ‘Silver’ part is only it’s color. It doesn’t tannish, but all rails get dirty from oils, dust, and cleaning matertials. SILVER OXIDE does conduct electricity, so assumptions can be made.
-
DENATURED or ISOPRPYL ALCOHOL may have water in it but no Oil. RUBBING ALCOHOL can have added properties - including oils and perfume. But “Oil base”? - No. READ THE LABEL.
A pad of corduroy, masonite, linoleum, or just a ‘brite boy’ provides a scrubbing action. Mechanized track cars reach difficult areas, Recommended home remedies include lead washers, Wahl Clipper oil, metal polishes, while some 'Pros just use Alcohol & a rag.
Depending on a combination of variables that include dust, smoke, and air circulation, all remedies work - to one degree or another. How well, depends o