As you can see in the picture the tracks don’t match. So I wonder if there is a way to calculate what turnout number (the two upper turnouts) I need for this?
Well, it’s early and my second cup of coffee is still in the cup, but I don’t think you will solve that by turnout number. You are going to either need short, straight pieces between the turnouts on the left side to spread out the track centers from them, thus matching the crossover on the top, or shorten the existing straight sections branching from the turnouts on the top, thus narrowing the track centers between them.
It is possible that a pair of #5 or #6s in the upper crossover will narrow the track centers, but I’d bet they would not match the centers coming from the others. If they did, it would be coincidence.
Generally, the turnout number only alters the radius of the turnout “closure” rails, the angle that the rails diverge, and the resulting length of the turnout.
Every manufacturer makes the diverging route a little differently and a little shorter or longer. It appears to me that the diverging route in your picture is not curving enough to line up. Just use a piece of flex track between those turnouts so you can add to the curved portion before straightening things out on your centerline for the straight portion. Alternately you can move the bottom of the bottom ladder to the left to achieve the same result.
Non symetrical track/turnout arrangements such as you have, may require short filler pieces or trimming of the turnout legs - I would be leary about trimming near the points unless there is a lot of lead. A better approach is to decide on the track centers for your parallel straight sections and then adjust/fill in the turnouts at each end to match.
Some manufacturers will engineer their turnouts (or turnouts + short track section) to yield a particular spacing, usually two inches in HO, 3 in S, 4 in O, etc. So if you stick to one brand and use that spacing every thing lines up easily. But sometimes the longer turnouts(8 +) have short legs (I guess for easier packaging) so you have to fill in .
Enjoy
Paul
So what you basically mean is this solution?
Problem
Solution
Btw, can you click on the pictures to make them bigger? I can’t and I don’t know why. It worked a couple of weeks ago with other pictures.
The situatiion you have happens all of the time.
It’s a simple matter of trimming the crossover route ends of the turnouts, so they can be placed closer together maintaining the track spacing you have decided on.
To me, this is one thing that separates the prototype looking model railroads from the toy train looking layouts. Real railroads usually use a 13 foot center to center track spacing on double track and passing sidings. This scales out to 1-13/16th’s inches in HO. I know it’s hard to maintain this separation on our tight model curves, but I never go over 2" on my layout (about 14-1/2 scale feet). Track separation in the 2-1/2" to 3" size (18 to 22 feet or more) looks toy like to me. Just my opinion, not a criticism. I model a 1950’s layout where the rolling stock is shorter and has much less of an overhang.
Dale Latham
I’m also modelling the era around 1950 and is planning to have shorter rolling stock.
To trim the turnout is a good idea. But I have never done this and it feels a little scary. But maybe I should not worry about it…
So what you mean is something like this?
Electrolove,
The last diagram is exactly what I mean.
Just trim the ties away and cut the rail with a Xuron rail cutter. You can remove all of the ties to within a few of the frog. Then use real wooden ties to replace the ones you removed. They can be easily painted or stained to match the plastic ones and cut to whatever length you need.
I think all modellers should keep at least one bag of wooden switch ties and regular ties handy, even if you will never hand lay any track. It’s easy to use a few of them to slip under the rail in places where you have cut away ties, either at turnouts or where you join pieces of flex track together. You can also use them in scenes, stacked along the right of way or laying where they have been removed from the track or as a gondola load. You can make retaining walls or use them as miniature landscape timbers, just as real gardeners do at times.
Use them as automobile bumbers in parking lots. So many possibilities.
If you’re doing a crossover, make sure the minimum turnout you use is a #6! Especially if you have long steam engines or passenger cars!
A better solution would be a left hand turnout on the top, with a right on the bottom.
electrolove,Be sure to check your clearances at each switch…Some of them in your drawing looks mighty close and would not leave room for a switch stand or ground throw.Voice of experience the hard way speaking here…[:0][:I]
BTW…You can use #4s as crossovers.They will work just find.
Electro,
The image enlargement feature only works on image files that are in ‘landscape’ orientation, i.e., longer horizontally than they are vertically. If the height of your image is even 1 pixel more than the width, it won’t work. (strange but true…!)
Electro,
Either of your solutions you pictured will work. It really just depends on track centers you want, and if you want them to be consistent.
Thanks for the info. I made the picture same size vertically and horizontally and now I can click on it to make it bigger. I think the ASP guy have a bug here… [:D]
The reason I ask is because I have not much room to the left so I want to have 5.5 cm between centers if it’s possible.
I will not have any steam or long passenger cars so that is not a problem.
What do you mean by using a left hand turnout on the top, and a right hand at the botton? I don’t think I understand why it’s better.
I will check the clearance and see if I can change it to make room for your suggestions, thanks.