I’m a newbie, and I asked earlier how you guys operate your switches. Just about everyone said they like to use ground throws wherever possible. That got me “off the fence” and I’m getting Caboose Industries ground throws for my switches, and I’m going to forget about the cost and hassle of a stationary decoder/motor DCC controlled system (for now, at least).
What about couplers, and coupling? My two sons and I are going to be using 3 quality engines to push around single and pairs of cars on our 2’ X 15’ shelf type switching layout, using walk around throttles. I’m about to buy the engines and the rolling stock (and the DCC system).
Which brand or type of couplers should I look for, or install myself? Do you guys like to use magnets? Kadee delayed type? I think I’ve heard some of you guys talk about using a tiny screwdriver or something to uncouple manually? I would like to buy RTR rolling stock to get me going at first, but I’ll do what I have to do.
Which way should I go here? I’m just starting out …a family member gave me a real lot of Atlas track and CustomLine switches, still new in the packages. The benchwork is up, and the track is down. I want to do this right, something else to do with my two sons, 12 and 14.
My layout is almost ready to operate, after 2 years, and I’m going to give the delayed-magnetic uncoupling a try. I installed most of the magnets (McHenry) after the track was down. (Not that I recommend this but it was not a problem. It just required removing a magnet-sized chunk of cork roadbed (or a bit wider in some spots) and then patching the spot and ballasting.)
If this works OK I think that I will prefer it to the “swizzle-stick” method. We’ll see. My main concern is whether or not the layout is level enough in the uncoupling areas. I replaced all wheel sets with IM metal and they roll on the slightest grade (Visible or not.[:0])
I use KD couplers (tried the others, but prefer KD #5 or #58).
I use mostly bamboo skewers. You can get them at your local grocery store. I sharpen a point on both ends and then cut them in half to make 2 uncouplers. Cheap and quick. If somebody walks off with one, you’ve lost 2 cents.
Is there a good way to uncouple N scale rapido couplers? I haven’t found anything that seems to work other than lifting one car up and pulling it away from the other.
I use a metal uncoupling tool (Much like the skewers) with Kadee’s.
The Rix Tool (Handheld magnetic uncoupler) doesn’t work reliably in my experience, and it is on the large size, so I ran into situations where it wouldn’t fit between the cars (Usually on a lsight curve).
The solution to Rapido couplers is to replace them with Microtrains.
I use Kadee couplers and un-couple them with a skewer with a penlight taped to it. You can turn on the light to see what you are doing. Nifty tool…doesn’t always help…
I use the RIX magnetic tool and bamboo skewers sharpened to a point. As pointed out earlier, the RIX tool can be to big to fit between cars. FYI you place the sharp point of the skewer between the two movable hands of the magnetic couplers and give a clockwise twist to separate the two couplers. I have electromagnetic’s installed in places I can’t reach. You can make a neat improvement on the permanant magnet uncoupler by hinging one end of it and using nylon string and eyehooks threaded into the bottom of your subroadbed. Pulling the string brings the magnet up to the bottom of the track for uncoupling. Afterwards letting tension off the string lets the magnet swing down away from the track preventing false uncouplings (my major reason for not using the permanant magnet uncouplers that mount between the rails). Also, if the magnets are mounted between the rails your trip pins on the couplers have to be adjusted just right to work. I think they are supposed to be 1/32" over the railhead, but not over 3/64" . This is not a lot of leeway. I also suggest you purchase the Kadee #205 coupler height guage to get your couplers and trip pins adjusted to the same height. Good luck with the layout. I can’t think of a better way to bring you and your sons together.
kadee’s #5 & #58 work great, tried bachmans and had serious problems on long trains with the couplers bending up and down which would result in a pull apart. also use the uncoupling magnets that go between rails, i break them in half so they dont look to bulky, then paint them rr tie brown to help hide them a little better, then paint the side of the rail with yellow paint to show operator where they are. have not had to many problems. if you are using code 83 you will need to remove a couple ties and then shim up to proper height.
accurail also makes a plastic stick with 2 ribs on the end that you stick between knuckles and twist to open couplers, these work pretty good and cheap.
My philosophy is to use BOTH methods of uncoupling. I am in N scale but I suppose same principle applies to others. Where I say “Micro Trains Lines” couplers, you can translate to Kadee. And where N scale train sets have “Rapido”-style couplers, HO modelers can translate that to “horn-hook” or “NMRA X2f” coupler.
I generally put MicroTrains couplers on all cars as my standard where it is possible/ easy/ feasible/ practical etc. Some brands of cars do not convert easily to MTL couplers and I use Accumate, etc some other kind of knuckle coupler that will mate with MTL even if they won’t couple or uncouple automatically. I have a batch of old Arnold Rapido tankcars that are a — (can’t use word on this forum) to convert to MTL, but there are other couplers that are a “drop-in”. Also I use the cheaper couplers on a string of ore cars that generally run together and some passenger cars that are hard to convert. But MTL (Kadee if I were in HO) is my standard. (Standard meaning preferred but not universally met.)
Before Microtrains N and Z separated from the original Kadee, there was an electromagnetic uncoupler for N scale. I had problems with mine, at least partly because I didn’t follow instructions. I was supposed to lacquer the uncoupling “guardrails” for electrical insulation and instead I covered them with thin tape which in N scale is THICK tape. Uncoupling was fine but flangeway clearance was reduced, raised wheels slightly causing poor electrical contact for locos on that section. My boo-boo. Last few times I looked, N scale electronic uncouplers NOT available from Microtrains, only in HO for Kadee. (Or maybe Kadee makes them for other scales/guages but not for N.
I prefer electronmagnetic uncouplers on heavily traveled mainlines to avoid false uncoupling, and permanent magnet uncoupling on industry spurs. BUT I do not insist that every spur have automatic magnetic uncoupling available. Depends partly on how accessible track is, and how heavy tra
I use Kadee #308 magnetic uncouplers for my trains in the most common areas like at the beginning of a siding. For other places I will get one of the uncoupling tools or maybe try a bamboo skewer,
Reed
If you ask me just buy magnetic couples and put magnets on all of your switching tracks now run your cars with the magnetic couples and stop them on the magnet now pull one of the cars very slowly and only one well move!!!