I use a variety of products when I strip paint off shells, depending on what manufacturer I’m dealing with. Mostly, I try to use 91% isopropyl alcohol first, since it’s so inexpensive and better for you and your plumbing. Alcohol will strip most of what’s out on the market today, including Accurail, Athearn, Bowser, Bachmann, Kato, Intermountain and Red Caboose. You sometimes have to let the shell soak for awhile (several hours) and perform repeat scrubbings, but it’ll still work very well. I’ve never seen 91% alcohol attack anyone’s plastic.
If the paint is particularly stubborn, I generally use Polly-S ELO. It’s a bit cheaper than Chameleon, and easier to get, which is why it’s my “hard paint” default. It’ll strip “impossible” paint like Rivarossi and AHM. It’ll also strip old Roundhouse and Athearn paints, but the shells can’t sit too long in it, before the plastic starts to craze. Don’t let shells sit in ELO for more than 1/2 hour!
If all else fails, I use my Paache air eraser (mini sandblaster). This will always take paint off, but it’s also hard on plastic, so I really have to watch what I’m doing.
I stay FAR away from things like Pine Sol or brake fluid. Pine Sol will soften plastic, and I’ve had shells that smelled like Pine Sol for YEARS after I stripped the paint! Brake Fluid will generally work, but only the non-synthetic stuff, which is getting harder to find due to EPA regulations. It’s also not very good for you.
Use oven cleaner, the unscented kind. Let it sit for 1/2 hour or more, then scrub with a tooth brush, preferably an old one, or at least your wife’s. Sometime’s takes more that one application, but always works. I’ve used this even on VERY expesive resin race car kits, and it never damages the model.
Good Luck! - Mike Morrison
91% Alcohol works great on P2k and Proto1000 and Microtrains and Atlas n scale as well as Athearn and Stewart and Kato. I swear by it…break fluid eats KATO so watch out!
Depends. 91% Iso Alcohol does the job on Proto 2000. Never tried a Kato. For older models, like Athearn, MDC, etc. Scalecoat #56 has worked well. Strips like the Energizer Bunny. When it gets murky, strain and filter it thru a paper towel and keep on strippin’.
FVRjake
Pine sol for me for all acrylic paints, rinse well, paint comes off in 1 piece.
works very slowly and not too well on Rivarossi paint after a 1 day soak. Paint turns to a gel like sticky substance but does wipe off eventually.
like i stated before, chameleon is best for plastic, unlike elo, which i don’t trust, due to the fact that it WILL craze and blemish plastic. i have let many shells sit in chameleon for days, and no damage at all!! it does not do any damage to plastic like elo does, or these “homemade” paint strippers some modelers use. if all else fails, start with a new shell, you will get better results that way, and make you a more satisfied modeler. i used elo before, …never again. to me, if elo does this to plastic, it is no better than cleaners, car fluids,beer, etc. there is also a product out there called “joe’s gel”. it is a gel with very fine abrasive particles in it. it resembles LAVA liquid soap. get it at joe’smodeltrains.com. it works very slowly, and it may not strip all paint. if you want to remove paint off of small metal detail parts, try CA remover. it is not safe on plastic, or clear window plastic.
Take it from a floor maintenance contractor, guys! I use a floor wax stripper called “First Time” from Unisource. prob is, it only comes in 5 gal pails. Use it over night, straight. Use a tooth brush, rince with water. Don’t get it on ya, either! use vinyl gloves, not latex.
Another brand is From Spartan products called Emulsifier Plus. You may be able to get that one in one gallon jugs. I dunno since I buy it for floors in large quantities.
If you are interested in this approach, call the janitorial supply places in the yellow pages. Make sure that the stuff you are using has Butyl or butylene in it. “First Time” is around 40 bucks a 5 gal pail. (you in a club?) Since it works better on floors than anything else, I’d assume it’s the best for paint.
I have never seen it attack styrene. I once left some parts in a sealed can and forgot
about it, over a year went by, no damage!
I use a variety of paint removers, depending on what I am working on.
Kato: I use Chameleon Paint Remover, and nothing else. Kato’s plastic will become brittle and crack very easily with Scalecoat II or other acetone-based removers.
Proto: Chameleon. Works very nice. Paint “sheets” off rather easily. No damage to the plastic.
Athearn, Walthers: Scalecoat II Paint remover. Only for these products. They appear to be the same kind of styrene underneath their paint.
Atlas: Chameleon. Period. Scalecoat II will work, too.
I also use a Microlux blaster with Aluminum Oxide for brass, and crushed glass for Plastic removal for stubborn paint. This is the item that is powered by a Shop Vac.
Trying to remember fluid A for shell brand B&C but not for D, which uses fluid E which can be used on shell brand F, if only for a half hour, yada yada yada![xx(]
Uses up valuable beer time![;)]
Chameleon is all I ever use. It works consistently, it’s never hurt anything.
Some might gripe about the cost, but what is your time worth? Let alone the cost of a wasted shell.
One hint. Strain it well after each use. It lasts longer!
Except, I don’t drink beer. Just some thoughts on what I use for my projects. Chameleon works very well as number “1”, since I now use only Atlas, Kato, and Proto locomotives. I usually try and find undecorated units, but sometimes that is not possible. Walthers’ freight cars are easily stripped in Scalecoat II, but I have had trouble using Chameleon on them.
Mr. Muscle (stove? U.S) oven(U.K.) cleaner. I’ve used this on plastic kits and the paint washes off under the tap (U.K.) faucet (U.S.). Put the item to be stripped in a plastic tub or similar and smother it in the foam. Check later, maybe two hours, maybe more… and rinse and brush, even decals will come off with a little help. No damage to plastic (revell kits etc.) even clear canopies… BUT IT IS CAUSTIC SO BE CAREFUL…rubber gloves, eye protection, do not breathe vapour (G.B.) vapor (U.S.)
For BACHMANN On30 lettering, 91% rubbing alcohol worked perfectly for removing lettering on freight and passenger cars. Use it sparingly so you don’t remove other lettering or background paint. I lightly rub the cleaned section with a light wash of 70% after, followed by a water sponging and dabbing dry. Try to use as little 91% as possible to avoid a “too clean and shiny” area where you worked. You can mask other nearby lettering with a razor blade, and watch that you don’t cappilary the alchohol into another letter that you want to keep.