If I were to build a layout using modules, what would I do for the trackwork between the sections?
My plan is to make my layout portable, so I can move it if necessary. I know that I should use wires to carry the current across the sections, instead of relying on the rail itself. I’ve seen NTRAK use Atlas rerailers between the sections to prevent derailments, but is this really necessary?
First lets get terms straight so we are all talking about the same thing.
A module is usually a section where the configuration of the tracks are the same on the ends of each module so all the modules are more or less interchangeable.
A sectional. layout is a layout that breaks down into pieces, which may or may not be similarly sized and the track connections at the ends of the sections are unique The sections only fit together one way.
Typically on modules a piece of sectional track, of a standard size are used to bridge between the modules. On a sectional layout you can use nonstandard sections of track, small pieces of rail or standard pieces of sectional track. Rerailers aren’t necessary. I have built both sectional layouts and modules and haven’t used rerailers on any of them.
I’ve got a similar dilemma, as I am building a 5x9 in two halves. Here’s what I’m planning to do…
I used Atlas sectional track, so I just identified the pieces that cross over the joint. All the other track has been permanently fastened down to cork roadbed, but these pieces are still “loose.” When assembling the two halves, I’ll attach each loose track “bridge piece” to the adjoining track on one of the sides with rail joiners. The other end will not be connected with rail joiners, but will be aligned as close as possible (I have a bunch of lines crossing the joint at weird angles, so it’s not practical for me to use rail joiners on both ends, then pu***he two halves of the layout together). These “bridge pieces” will be mounted on a solid roadbed material with some sort of pin going down through the layout surface on the “free” end (i.e. the end w/o rail joiners) to keep the rails aligned on that end. The “bridge pieces” will also have wire electrical leads with quick disconnects.
The cork roadbed on the layout will be cut flush with the end of the rails where the bridge pieces join, and the roadbed on the bridge pieces will be the same size and shape as the cork roadbed. That way, the roadbed from the bridge pieces will marry up nicely with the cork roadbed on the rest of the layout. Once it’s all ballasted, hopefully you’d only see a small gap at the joint between the bridge piece and the adjoining track.
Hope this made sense and hope it helps shed some light on your dilemma.
Or you don’t have to have trackwork between sections. I have three modules that I joined together with door hinges. I laid the track as if it were on fixed bench work. After I was all done I seriously nailed the ties on the edges to the roadbed, then cut the rails exactly where the sections of bench work met. Pull the hing pins and have three sections. The rail is flush with the edges of the separated benchwork. Works great. The hardest thing is to protect the rail ends that are right on the edges from getting bumped while setting up / taking down / transporting. Since you aren’t really planning a portable layout but a movable layout you wouldn’t even need to cut them at all until such time when/if you move. Make certain you don’t put the points of a turnout across the sections!
If you’re going to use a jumper section then, No. In fact, I’ve found that a short section of flex track often works better especially if the modules aren’t always arranged the same way. Flex track has just enough bend in it to allow 1/32" differences in fixed rail length from kinking or breaking the end sections.
A short removable section of track is the best way to go on modules where different builders are involved (Often builders who have never met until their modules are matted at a train show) and also when built by the same builder at different times. It is also good where modules or sections can be assembled in different configurations or order. The reason is that it allows for the inevitable slight differences in track alignment. Also the ends of the track are less likely to be damaged during assembly/teardown and transport because the tracks stops short of the ends of the section.
Where sections are built together and will always be used together the track can be run across the break and the rails then cut at the break. Some positive permanent means of securing the rail ends is necessary. One means is to solder the rails to long screws which are driven through the roadbed into the subroadbed before the track is layed. For this method the “tablework” shoulld be byilt to a high standard od dinensional accuracy and a positive accuraye means of alligning the sections and attaching them together is necessary.
Another system has been used sucessfully in N scale on T-Trak modules. Kato Unitrak is used at the ends of the modules. The modules are set up on tables and the Kato track connection holds them together. http://www.t-trak.org
I recently had to move mine. Knowing a move was in the future I built it in 3 sections. Using terminal strips I tried to make each section as electrically independant as possible and made sure all wires that lead to the control panel were on Spades and Terminal blocks and could be easily disconeccted. I also kept the trakc work simple at the joints and didn’t glue down any track that crossed a joint. The coming apart and moving went fine. but I haven’t had a chance to put it back together yet. Good luck with it. Your already doing well by thinking about it before you build it. Dave
I build modules using the Fremo “butt end” methode. This means securing the track to some small brass screws in the end of the module. The picture below makes things perhaps a bit more clear.