…you watch a lot of glue dry.
That’s all I gotta say.
…you watch a lot of glue dry.
That’s all I gotta say.
Not if you use the new Kutenwiddle laser welder.
Unless you use screws, then you have to watch the battery charge.
What if you use screws AND glue?
You guys must have some really dang small screws. My wood is only 1/32" thick.
True, the glue does take longer to dry but I think nothing looks more like wood than wood. It is also easy to stain and paint with minimal equipment and techniques. Granted, if I was modeling metal, a non-wooden structure or a piece of metal rolling stock, I’d use styrene or brass. Styrene probably is easier to use in the smaller scales but is great for wooden structures and old time wooden rolling stock in O and larger scales.
On the serious side, I use Ca glue and accelerator for some small projects. Elmers and screws for larger ones or epoxy. Speaking of glue, do any of you older modelers remember the kits back in the 40’s and early 50’s that had a small packet or envelope of powdered glue to assemble them with. I remember complete train kits. Ken
Oops! I was thinking 2x4’s and 1x2’s.
Super glue then? That only takes a few seconds.
And cut that darn thing 3 times and it’s still too short!
Clamp it and go do something else.
LOL.
lol i agree thats what i do
Seems that happens no matter how many times I cut it!!! [:P]
underworld[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]
Hello Mr. Mouse (Chip).
I use to very much enjoy working with wood, and built many a wooden model back in the day. But, my asthma will no longer allow me to be exposed to saw dust or wood dust from sanding, so I had to give it up. However, I’ve been considering constructing a clear plastic helmet like a space helmet with an air feed line from the outside that will keep the dust away from me so that I can get back into it. There’s nothing more rewarding than building and painting your own wooden models and structures…
By the way. If you’re using Elmer’s wood glue, you might try a blow dryer set on medium heat to speed up the drying.
Tracklayer
Tracklayer,
If regular industrial mask filters won’t work, there are already masks for paint booth work that use a remote supply through a pump, filter and tube though they tend to be pricey. It is a shame to be kept from something so enjoyable even if the glue does take a while to dry[:)] J.R.
When you work with wood -
You learn in a hurry that wood is not a precision product!
And that is all this metalworker has to say on the subject.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with wood, where necessary)
Added a hand rail to the Rock Ridge catwalk and some split rail hitching posts. Gotta tie up the horses and keep the Lilliputians from falling off the back of Tater Mountain.




Nice work - is it osha approved?
I’m building my first wood kit right now, American Model Builders Transfer Building. I’m using Titebond Wood Glue which seems to set up fairly quickly. I haven’t really noticed a difference in drying time compared to plastic cement. This is a nice looking kit. Makes me want to do some more wood kits.
Eric
…you watch a lot of glue dry.
That’s all I gotta say.
And people wonder why I almost exclusively work with styrene!
Tracklayer,
If regular industrial mask filters won’t work, there are already masks for paint booth work that use a remote supply through a pump, filter and tube though they tend to be pricey. It is a shame to be kept from something so enjoyable even if the glue does take a while to dry[:)] J.R.
Thank you GMTRacing. I’ve tried all sorts of masks and filters, but finally gave up because I have to wear glasses in order to see, and my breath causes my glasses to fog up. That’s why I designed the helmet I mentioned that would fit over my head with a filtered air feed from the out side. I admit it would be a bit bulky, but that’s the only way I could ever work around wood dust or saw dust anymore. My problem has gotten so bad in recent years that almost any kind of smoke, dust or alike makes me really sick…
Tracklayer