I’m getting ready to start working on a sectional layout. And I was wondering if anyone can point me in the direction or give me a link that will help me use flextrack. Its my first time using it and I need some pointers about making curves out off it and any other tips that I might stumble across.
What is everyones opinion on this. Should I use flextrack or should I go with sectional. I’m trying to stretch out my funds on the track as far as possible. I’m still trying to decide how long to make it 4, 5, 6 feet. Then the other question I’m wrestling with is wether to make it the cornerpiece of a sectional or set it up to where I can branch off both sides and put it somewhere else.
Any thoughts, comments, suggestions would be great
Snap track will give you a limited number of radius choices. If you’re planning on these size curves, it may be the best choice to start with on your first layout. Flex track has some additional problems, and is not as easy to work with as snap or sectional taack. A good primer:
Your shortest dimension listed above, 4 feet, will restrict you to a 180 degree curve of 22 inch radius (allowing for clearance around the edges of the platform), which is why it’s available as a snap track size. Review the link above and if you have some more specific questions, we can probably give you answers better tailored to your situation.
This comes from the Model Railway Express www.mremag.com Hints and Tips which are also archived
Early in 2008 I saw a 4x8 layout which was a “work in progress” similar to what I have done with my own memorial layout “Newry” at an exhibition. The purpose of this layout like my own was to show what one could start out doing and was on unpainted Medium Density Fibreboard (MDF).
The builder used Flextrack for the “straight sections” and Peco 2nd and 3rd radius curves for the end curves. Points were a mixture of set track and Streamline as the need arose. This allowed for some slight offsets of track to improve the “prototype appearance” and not having dead straight sections of track. It also allowed for more freedom with the geometry not being totally dictated by the lengths of set track that would have been used.
Sidings in particular looked good done this way. You get speed of laying, accurate curves, “prototypical straights” and the overall cost of your trackwork is reduced.
You will find a number of hints which may help you,
Sectional might make sense on curves, especially if you want consistent radius and do not want to cut track. Flex is simple for straight runs or for easements and has fewer joints that may have to be soldered. Depending on where you buy track, flex and sectional have similar prices.
I’ve been working on designs for my RR using RightTrack; curves always start out as sectional, as do straights. Later I convert to flex track.
Jeff Wilson’s Basic Trackwork for Model Railroaders
The link to the Wilson book has an extensive preview of the flex track and turnout sections. You might find the preview sufficient, but then you might want to actually buy the book (so future books get published).
How to Build Realistic (Series) is published 1-2 per year, has been around for apx. three years, and; in my opinion is a Must-Buy Pre-Order the moment you find out about it. Every one of these special books is a keeper.
…a “Realistic Series” on pre-order receives free shipping plus a $1.00 discount. Get on the MR e-mail list and you’ll be kept up-to-date on things weekly.
P.S.: Tip for joining two pieces of flextrack together is to solder them before you bend the curve. Since you have already laid the roadbed down, or have a center line if no roadbed, you’ll know when you need to do this trick – and keep leftover flextrack pieces for that extra couple-inch track-gap and/or as a source of 1-2 ties when you least expect it.
The downside to sectional track is being limited to what radius is commercially available at a price you can afford and not being able to have easements. With flex you make your own curves with easements.
By all means check the references others have listed. From my own personal experience I will tell you that laying out the curve is the most critical part. - I use a trammel for the curves and templates for the easements. Getting it drawn correctly on the sub roadbed or plywood table top makes the accurate laying of roadbed and track much easier
Atlas has information on using their track available on their website. There is even track layout software available free from Atlas. Don’t use flextrack if your setup is not permanent. Flextrack needs to be held in position.