I’m looking into getting one of the Choppers available from Northwest Short Line, NWSL. I was just wondering, Pro’s and Con’s of each.
“1” I like the for size and $, but the ridged blade is less options for cutting.
“2” Nice size, a little more expensive, but more cutting option it looks to me.
“3” The same as “1” but longer, size could be an issue when setting up on my small work table.
#2 looks like it’s better made - which in the long run means less expensive. If you are planning something with a lot of long pieces, such as a trestle or bridge, #3 looks like the way to go. I’m a tool “junky”, so I’d probably buy both!![:D]
P.S. I do very little work in wood (on the train stuff), but I do have full size table & miter saws, and more other “stuff” than you can imagine (retired carpenter/cabinet maker)! [swg]
P.P.S. When you die, the guy with the most toys wins!! [}:)] / [angel]
I have been getting good service cutting wood and styrene out of my “#1” chopper – masonite board, standard single edged blade. I did add the little block of wood to keep the handle from trying to depress too deeply (it saves the blade from gouging into the masonite itself). I am told that over time I will need to fill the slight gougle in the masonite with some product.
For years I resisted buying a chopper thinking it was a foolish extravagance – after all I can cut a straight line with a knife or zona saw can’t I? – but once you are involved with any kind of project that involves multiple pieces of the same size, the advantages become instantly obvious.
I have thought of upgrading to the “2” but before that I need to invest in the other tools that NWSL offers, especially since I hear the owner would like to retire.
Dave Nelson
ive never seen that 3rd one, how much does it cost?
I have had the chopper 1 ever since they first came out. I have filled the gouge under the blade and replaced the blades but that is all. I have built many wood structures with it over the years and it has been entirely satisfactory for me. No need for the variable angle of the “2”.
Good idea about the block of wood to save gouging. Where is it put?
The hinge on #2 looks stronger and it has the nice angle lines drawn on it already. I guess you could always draw your own angle lines on the other two.
Do those just use standard razor blades?
The Choppers use single-edged razor blades which are sometimes difficult to find.
I have the Chopper II. The biggest advantage to the newer versions are the replaceable, soft cutting platforms instead of Masonite.
HARD To Find!?[:O] [:D]
I have a hardware store full of them.
I think I’ll lean towards #2. Compact and versatile.
DKnelson, Im with Bruce on this where do you put the wood block?
Dave
Yeh, where’s the block go. Does it go under the angled bracket that the handle pivots on? Also, is that for the Chopper 1 only?
I had a #1 for many years, found it great in my scratchbuilding and other projects. Micro Mark had #2 on sale some time ago, and I got one, sold the other one. Been working great until just recently when I tried to cut a piece of thin plywood as used in a laser cut kit. I had to press fairly hard to cut the dense wood, and the rear of the blade afterwards was angled upwards a bit.
I took off the metal plate that holds the blade in place with a single screw and noticed the rear lug that is cast into the handle had sheared off. The slots in the single edged blade are held in place by two such lugs. On the original, the blade is held in place with two screws through the slot in the blade.
The Chopper still works, but not as well. I sent a note to NWSL asking if I could get a replacement handle, and if so, would I be able to replace it myself. The bearing looks like it is pressed in. I am quite disappointed that I never heard back from NWSL at all. Either they don’t care or cannot supply a replacement handle. I’d like to know either way, so I may send them another message. They’ve been great servicing their products in the past.
EDIT: After I posted this message I re-sent my e-mail to NWSL inquring about the Chopper II handle. They replied right away that a replacement was in the mail on June 6th. Now all I have to do is get it an figure out how to install it, as they said an arbour press would be needed to press out the old bushing.
I have a ‘Chopper II’ and love it. I had another product that was made out of plastic and metal, it had a ‘slicing’ action, but was not real accurate with anything thicker than .020" styrene. The Chopper II is rock solid stable with .040" styrene, and I have even cut .125" square stock with it.
Jim
In the “Building craftsman/wood kits” thread (where I guess this spun off of), there was a post or two mentioning that the ends of cut stock often have a slant vertically, especially the thicker stock. I have experienced this too, and the NWSL instructions to let the piece ‘float’ (I guess meaning don’t hold it tight once the blade touches the piece) doesn’t really seem to do much. Anyone else have this problem, and any suggestions (squaring a slanted end using a file kind of defeats the whole purpose I think)?
I have a Chopper II and really like it. I’ve never had any problems with it and have only replaced the mat one time. My wife uses it as well for doll house stuff.
I purchased Chopper #1 soon after it first appeared. It still works fine, perhaps because I’ve avoided cutting anything bigger than one-eigth-inch-square pieces. Subsequent models aren’t such a great improvement I want to replace the original yet. Also, the longer surface can be space-consuming, but comes in handy when using long lengths of stripwood.
Mark
My 12" mitre saw always cuts streight/flush[:D]!!
More or less at the end of the handle (to avoid interfering as much as possible with the work). It is not much bigger than a piece of matchstick, probably less than half an inch long. It keeps the handle going all the way down and touching the masonite - yet permits the blade to cut completely through the work but inhibits the blade from going into, as opposed to exactly meeting, the masonite.
I am sure I got the idea from MR, RMC, or the NMRA’s Bulletin/Scale Rails.
Dave Nelson
I actually got this idea for the question from the MicroMark catalog I got in the mail yesterday. Until now I was unaware of the “Building craftsman/wood kits” thread. As I was flipping through the pages I saw that Chopper II staring at me again, just begging me to buy it. I (for some reason) have been putting off buying one for years now. But, now that I heard NWSL might close up shop I am definitely getting my hands on one… before they’re all gone.
I’m going to go for the Chopper II, that should fit my needs the best.
Thanks for all the feed back so far from everyone.
BTW, the owner of NWSL has no intention of shutting down the business, but rather wants to sell NWSL so he then can retire, but he doesn’t seem to be in a big hurry.
I have had the chopper 1 since it came out. Great tool.