If I go “N” scale I’m thinking of going to Code 55, Peco track. Anything about this that I should be aware of (Note, I’m a Newby). I know I can get Peco turnouts but I’m not sure about the track yet (flextrack).
Well, I guess another question would be whether there are any potential issues with using flextrack versus the snap track that is in the plans I’m looking at. I’m rather looking forward to laying track.
And if I’m doing HO (because I haven’t finalized my decision yet), should I just go with code 83?
I like the idea of the track being more prototypical although I suspect with my first layout it will be FAR from prototypical of anything except my mind (which is a scary thought). Or, is it better to go with the taller rails to start with?
If you go modern, then code 83 (for H0) or code 55 (for N) would be good. For older times I would go with smaller rails.
I model in H0n3 and use code 55 or code 40.
But another point is the wideness of the rail. There’re different brands. I would use narrow rail heads. If the rail is painted the height is not so much the point like the - shiny - wideness.
Code 83 is what many people are using for HO these days; however if cost is a factor, code 100 is cheaper. Use nickle silver rail, it may not ba as good a conductor as brass, but it is more than made up by its corrosion resistance, i.e. much less track cleaning to get trains to run reliabily.
Whichever scale or code track you use, flextrack is the best choice because it gives the most (no pun intended) flexibility. With sectional track, you are limited to the radii that the manufacturer produces, usually 18", but 22" is also available. With flextrack you can choose any radius that works for your track plan and space - try 100" radius? [swg]
I built Phase 1 of my layout with Code 100. I was concerned that my old, old rolling stock would not work well on Code 83. Now, I’m building Phase 2 with Code 83, because I think the track itself looks so much nicer, and I’m feeling more “serious” about how my layout looks. I’ve tried some of my old freight cars on Code 83 that I’ve hastily pinned down, and they seem to work just fine.
Go to your LHS and hold a piece of Atlas Code 100 flextrack in one hand, and a piece of Atlas Code 83 flextrack in the other. Betcha you choose the Code 83.
What I do is I use flex track for all my straight sections, nice smooth ride for the train, for tight curves ( 18" for HO) I use the preformed packs of track so I dont end up make the curve to tight. For bigger radius curves or curves off the turn out I go with flex as well.
For curves using flextrack, it is a good idea to solder the rail joiners together on 2 sections of flex and remove 3 or 4 ties on both sides of the joint so the sliding rail can move. This will avoid a kink half way through the curve where the track meet that is hard to correct.
Oh, yes, make sure you solder both sliding rails togrther – > typically, one rail on a piece of flextrack is fixed in place by the plastic tie plates, and the other is free to slide. If you don’t inderstand what I mean, grab a piece of flex, and bend a curve in it, you will see one rail move.
It’s more than a good idea to solder two pieces of flex track together for curves. After 5 years and 2 layouts of not doing it, I now consider soldering two pieces of flex track together for curves as essential to avoid derailments.