I have a club swap show coming up in 3 weeks and I usually go there to stock up on basics- metal wheels, couplers, etc in addition to my perennial search for a bargain engine and cars. I am starting to run low on Kadee #5 couplers, which I have used for a long time for general refurbishment upgrading of the stuff I bring home from these shows, so here is the question: Should I buy more of the number 5’s or switch to the whisker-type ones, either 148 or 158, if I recall. Are the whisker ones easier to deal with, with respect to upgrading old Athearn BBs and other used cars? Are they durable? etc. Cedarwoodron
The #148 Whisker coupler has the spring already attached. It’s identical to the #5 in all other respects. The #158 is a scale (smaller) head coupler, same as the #58. I prefer the #148.
My choice of coupler is the 148 and then the #5…I avoid scale couplers since they can come uncoupled on uneven track because of the smaller coupler head…I use my cars at the club so,its the safest bet to use standard size couplers like the 148s and 5s…
The #148 ‘Whisker’ coupler is my ‘go to’ coupler - especially for older Athearn ‘BB’ cars. The biggest problem with the ‘BB’ cars is that the coupler box is too deep and the car gets ‘coupler droop’. The #148 coupler’s shank is a little thicker than a #5(due to having to hold the whisker springs’ in place), and does not have the ‘droop’ issue. I also remove the plastic stud in the ‘BB’ coupler pocket and drill/tap for a 2-56 screw. I use the hollow stud from an old Kadee coupler pocket(who does not have lots of those?) as a ‘bushing’ and place it in the #148 coupler. I put the old metal coupler cover on the pocket and slide the #148/bushing into the pocket. I use either a 3/16" or 1/4" long 2-56 screw to hold it all together.
No coupler droop, and the coupler will never fall out of the pocket while running trains!
I still buy a 10 or 20 ‘bulk’ pack of #5’s as some coupler pockets are sort of tight for the #148. But usually I can get a #148 in most coupler pockets and they eliminate the biggest problem with the #5 - the phosphor/bronze centering spring wears out and the coupler fails to ‘center’ after a year or so.
Jim
I’ve been using the #58 couplers since they came out. Before that, I used #5s. I was concerned that they might not play well together, but I have no problems either with the 58-58 combo or the 58-5 combo.
For a while, there was no 158, at least not in bulk packs, but now that there is, I’ll probably get those next.
I’m with MB; I like the #58s. If you are already using #5s and like the scale-sized couplers, the #58s are an easier transition than the #158s because you only have to replace the coupler. If you like the larger couplers and don’t want to mess with the copper center spring, the #148s would work well.
I get the #58s in the bulk (20 pair) packs from M.B. Klein.
Tom
Thanks , guys for the feedback. I plan ahead for these swap shows, as they are my main hobby spending venue these days, with the few bucks I get the authority over. Cedarwoodron
Jim, great idea for the coupler/ pocket fix on those BB. Never thought to use the “hollow sleeve” of the Kadee box for this. Sure solve many a problem w/ that snap on BB metal lid and coupler droop. Thanks
I use mostly #158’s, but then I have virtually flat, good trackwork. If there are little irregularities or dips in the trackwork, the #148 allows more tolerance of those.
The whisker couplers work slightly better for me than the old style, so none of my rolling stock has any old style #5 or #58 couplers on it.
John
I bought the Bulls Eye jig,tap,drill bit and screws from A Line. The jig goes over the plastic stud in the coupler box and helps to drill straight. The tap is for a 2 56 screw. It doesn’t take long to do a car. The longest part is dissasembling the frame. Joe
I prefer the #5, simply because they are cheaper and work every bit as well.
You should also look at Walther’s Proto Max couplers. The are another all-metal coupler which is virtually identical to the Kaydees.