Which engines should buy?

Now that have decided to go with HO guage with the help of my fellow MRR pals. My next question is should I go with a box starter set or should I buy each engine ,cars, track etc.

Than you in advance for the help!

This is a bit of a debated subject. There are some appallingly poor-quality sets out there at the “bargain basement” end of the market, while there are those from reputable manufacturers that are good. I’d suggest looking at Athearn or Walthers sets (not sure if the latter are still available). Both will be reliable and you will be able to add extra detail to the loco and cars as you become more confident.

If you decide to go the seperate items route, I would suggest the following “cheap but good” locos:
Athearn “blue box” kits - need a little simple assembly but that’s half the fun in my opinion!
Walthers make a very good F40PH (I’ve got one), also a GP9m and FA1 that I’ve not tried - considering buying a Walthers FA1 soon if my LHS still has one in stock.
Lifelike Proto are superb - I’d suggest Proto 1k as they are cheaper but still have the great chassis. Their FM C-Liners are amazing models with huge haulage abilities.

As far as cars are concerned, I’d suggest Athearn blue box kits again. Easy to assemble, and can be detailed so they don’t look so bad next to more expensive cars you may buy later. Walthers RTR cars may also be worth a look for modern freight stock.

Schmux1

Railroading_Brit Is right on target! [swg][tup] If you’re on a budget Athearn is a good way to go. You didn’t indicate what time period, era you prefer to model.

For example, if you decide that you’d like to try modeling “prototype” time periods and wi***o model “modern”, then you would purchase boxcars and refreigerated cars that have no roofwalks as these were eliminated during the late 70s early 80s. Cabooses and 40ft. boxcars were pretty much gone from mainline trains in the 80s.

Locomotives: From the mid 70s till the late 80s GP40-2s, GP38-2s, SD40-2s, F40PHs, C30-7s, pretty much dominated the mainlines of the U.S. Today it’s SD60s, SD75s, C44-9s, AC60s, and GE Genesis series (passenger).

Athearn as well as the other manufacturers carry diesel locomotives and freight cars from a variety of time periods so if you’re interested in modeling time periods, ask questions at your LHS. I bring this up because a friend of mine who now wishes to make his model railroad “modern” after looking at various pictures had stock cars and F7s pulled behind modern high horsepowered locomotives. He’s learning and enjoying it. This is part ot his railroad’s “Theme”.

But hey, it’s not a big deal if you choose not to be era specific. Took me 20 years to realize that I like the 60s and early 70s.

So e-mail us back and let us know if you’re interested in establishing a Theme. Doesn’t have to be CONCRETE ROCK SOLID as some modelers choose. Can be quite flexible. It’s plauseible, for example, to have one of two steamers on a modern layout. The justification: They’re restored units used for passenger excursions.

Write back, hope this helps![:D][:)][8D][:)][8)][tup]

Very good suggestions so far.
I too own a few Walthers F40PHs and four P1K F3 A-B consist, both inexpensive & good runners.

You didn’t mention steam. Should that also be on your consideration list, post it. Steam can be
tricky & expensive. Combined. there are over 15 different loco manufacturers.

Your budget will help determine what is affordable, then we can help you with the reliability factor.

schmux1, Great question this is so hope I have a great answer for you. [#ditto] on locomotive’s answer and would like to add that in my opinion I would go with a starter set and I would also recomend Bachmann “Silver Series” along with the others mentioned above. You’ll get a good quality DCC ready loco and good rolling stock, but keep in mind that no matter the brand they are starter sets, but a good way to get your feet wet. Visit your hobby shop, and compare before buying is my suggestion to you. Keep us posted on your progress please. Thanks and have fun, Ken

Schumux,

Your best bet if you are starting off is an Athearn Set.
It comes with a locomotive, 3-4 cars, track & a decent power pack for the money.
This will get you started if you don’t have any equipment & should last a while & will allow you to expand in the future as they are very versatile.
Model Power, LifeLike or Bachman sets, I’d stay away from.
The Lifelike Proto series & Bachman’s Spectrum series are excellent buys but I have not seen them in sets.

I hope this helps.

Gordon

I started out buying seperatly and flunked.Then I tried a set and it was great.The advantedge of a set is that even when you are building your layout you can run some trains.When I was buying seperatly.I could not run trains because my layout it drove me nuts[banghead]. I advise a set if you choose a set buy carefuly get something you can use on your layout.

a set is nice but as soon as you see some trains running you will out grow it very fast

B -

We should probably point out here that if he DOES buy a set, and the above happens, which by the way, I also think it will, that he can expand the original set by buying more of the same brand of track and “switches”, etc.

He won’t be stuck with something obsolete, in other words.

I woukdn’t buy a set, while its cheaper its not a good choice.
Unless you get an expensive one…
I started out buying individually and I’m happy with my choice, I have quality RS and locomotives.

Everybodys different though

ACELA EXPRESS set by Bachman Trains. Its a little expensive, but im really happy with it!!!

Thank you all for your replies. I have been side track for a knee operation and am on the mend. I am looking at maybe a time period in the 60’s[:D]

The 60’s will allow you to focus on diesels and like I said, there are 15+ loco manufacturers
from bear bones to Chevies to Lexus and a few lemons in between.

So, how much you want to spend will determine the quality, performance & details that you may expect.

Come on back before you buy and piggy back off our experience .

Thanks locomotive3 I will do just that. I know I cannot trust the advice from my local stores.[:)]

This forum has global hands on experience.

Your LHS should help putting together a good starter set. Let them know what kind of space you have to get started. A 4x8 is a good place to start.

  1. Track you want an oval in either Kato Unitrack or Atlas flex.
  2. Power : Use MRC for DC, or go with DCC
  3. Locos: Atlas, Kato, Lifelike P2K Your choice roadname
  4. Cars: 1/2 in same roadname as loco, others can be anything else. 10 cars may be plenty to start in & convert everything to KD.
    No horn-hooks or crapido for you!
  5. Some simple plastic kits. Online station, industry. Offline other buildings to your taste.
  6. Get some MR or MRC issues to see what else you might want to do later. MR books are great to show you how it’s done.
  7. Have fun until your knee mend. Gives time to assemble cars, paint & assemble buildings, read mags and plan what & where your layot is.

To Wdlgln005

what is KD[%-)]

KD is short for Kadee which is the most common & best quality magnetic knuckle coupler.

Gordon

I did not start out with a set. Everything I bought, I bought ala Carte.

I wasn’t a brand snob or anything; everything I bought was Bachmann or Life Like. I just couldn’t get the specific locomotive and passenger cars I wanted in a set, so I bought everything individually.

I really shouldn’t have.

Even if I threw away the locomotive that came with the set and bought a higher quality one elsewhere, I would have been ahead money-wise with a set. Buying track at list price really sucks, and is why you usually come out ahead with a set.

I would encourage you to check out sets, and see if it saves you money even if you don’t plan to use some of the equipment that comes with the set. If I had done that, I probably would have saved a fair amount of money.

Generally speaking, inexpensive sets/ some individual pieces come with cheap horn-hook couplers and plastic wheel sets and then there are the copied cat knuckle couplers or clones.

The only manufacturer that I know that come with standard Kadee knuckle couplers is intermountain.

Generally, modelers upgrade to Kadee and here’s a short story.
http://www.nmra.org/beginner/couplers.html

These are issues you can address once you zero in on a selected model.