Which model glue, for styrene kits, do you think is best? I have been using Testors but it seems to “shine” to much. I am very careful not to overdue it. Is there any that are better in your opinion?
–Mike
I use Revell poly cement - it comes in a bottle with an applicator needle thingy which makes it easy to put glue where you want it, and only where you want it! The only snag is that the needle does tend to clog up - I usually keep a piece of wire handy to pu***hrough and clear blockages. I’m now a big fan of the more liquid poly cements as I find them more controllable - used to use the old Humbrol tubes for many years but these are not very controllable - you tend to end up with glue everywhere!
Mike;
Which Testors? There are at least for different ones, probably more. I use the liquid one in the black bottle with red label. For fine work, I put a few drops on a small piece of aluminum foil then use a pin, re-bent paper clip or tooth pick as an applicator.
For other items, I also have thin and gel CA on hand, and Aleene’s Tacky Glue.
It is Model Master - Liquid Cement for plastic models. Maybe I am just to sloppy with it but it seems as though if I get any on a part that I do not want, It shows! Is this true with all others?
I use Tamiya Liquid Cement. Quite good, provided you are careful. Any polystyrene cement will show up if applied to a visible surface, as it works by literally melting the styrene together.
I try to use as little as possible. I take some small cheap paint brushes and cut off most of the bristles.
Enjoy
Paul
I prefer Ambroid Proweld (liquid plastic cement) for most plastic to plastic joints. It’s not as strong as Testors, and doesn’t evaporate as fast as Tenax. However, I do use all three depending on the application. I generally reserve Testors for aggressive joints that won’t be seen (inside bracing in buildings, mostly), and use Tenax sparingly where I need to glue something that will be highly visible, like plastic grabirons.
I don’t like to use superglues for plastic to plastic joints, since it makes a brittle bond, and I haven’t used tube “airplane” glue in years!
I use a plastic weld called “Tenax 7R”. It’s a quick, and solid joint, and as the name implies, it actually “melts” the joint together. Very difficult to separate again.
This stuff comes in a small bottle, so use the sponge trick so as not to tip the bottle over.
It also evaporates quickly, so use the cap whenever you aren’t using it for more than a minute or so.
Buy a dedicated wood-handle applicator brush, as this stuff will melt plastic brushes. The bristles will get stiff between uses, but a dip in Floquil or Scalecoat paint thinner will loosen them up again.
Any liquid will work well on raw styrene, but if you are trying to assemble a decorated kit the paint seriously interferes with the process. You could scrape the paint off the joint but this can become very impractical on small parts. I have found than MEK (methy-ethyl-ketone), available in serious paint stores as a solvent/stripper, to be really good at making a joint through paint. It has a breathtaking odor and can be harmful longterm, so use small open quantities and ventilate the room. If ignited, it gets harmful shortterm
so exercise normal precautions as you would with any flamable. I use a glass medicine bottle anchored to make it tip-resistant, and apply with a paint brush. Get in the habit of
setting the cap back on the bottle between applications to minimize evaporation.
I think the Establishment considers MEK to be too dangerous for us to use so there is little about it in the modelling press; it’s just another solvent with the potential for harm if improperly used. If you respect the power of Darwin’s natural selection you won’t have any problems. It solved a major problem for me with painted kits.
Thanks for listening.
Tenax.