Which model railroad manufacturers do you prefer?

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Hi,

I’m new to this hobby. I’ve been modeling an painting figures for the last 25 years. I needed to change and get involved in a new hobby. I decided to try model railroad.

I’ve been reading about track plan and layout, different scale available and I decided to build an HO scale layout.

Now I need to get some stock to start building the layout. My problems is I don’t know which manufacturers offer the best in term of quality and variety. When I was modeling, I knew all the manufacturers, which one offer the best tank, the best planes, the best figures with the best details, which models had all the details or was the simple to assemble.

But I started to look at all the manufacturers tryinig to find tracks and locomotives, rolling stock, DCC control and now it seems that there are a lot of choice available.

For DCC, I decided that it will be MRC wireless. That part is covered. But for the rest, tracks and locomotives, rolling stocks, accessories, I just don’t know the pros and cons of each manufactuers.

Which ones offer the best quality for locomotives, the best details, the smoothest engines, most reliable?

So I would love to hear from your experience, which manufacturers you trust, which one you like the most and why.

Exemple, when I was painting figures, I always like Pegaso. Their figures were among the best. Details were crisp, lots of variety, different scale available. Enigma is different cause the subject is more fantastic. But again good figures. The poses are wonderful and the subject are just incredible.

So, I would love to be able to narrow down my choice a bit and concentrate on the best manufacturers in the hobby.

Thank

Clarence, the new guy!!!

2

Ah, but what if the best manufacturers don’t make the things you want?

Clarence, you’re either going to have to “dive right in” and make a lot of (potentially expensive) mistakes, or you’re going to have to sit back and do a lot of studying and put off the gratification for awhile. Both work, and both have their good and bad points.

You’re from “model building”. In that field, everything stands alone. A model of a B-36 doesn’t have anything to do with any other model. In model railroading, everything is interconnected. And so are all your decisions.

I think your question doesn’t really make sense. It would in your old field; it doesn’t in your new.

I recommend standing back a bit and doing more research. Do a lot of reading (those book things). It worked for me.

Ed

3

Since you’re asking for an opinion, here you are.

You can’t go wrong with Athearn, Proto 1000 or 2000, Atlas, Kato ( if you can find one ), Bowser, Walthers or Accurail.

Gordon

4

Id say all the usual players, Athearn, Walthers, Intermountain, Broadway Limited, Kato MTH. Really depends on what exactly your looking for. Athearn and Walthers have different lines of products (Gold line, Platinum line, etc.) also, which pretty much boils down to the more detail the product has the more it cost. You get what you pay for, or at least most of the time you do… The ones I listed cater mostly to HO & N scale I couldn’t really tell you in terms of larger scales. I had been out of the hobby for a long time and when I got back in I discovered that you have to research what your buying especially if your a stickler for detail like I am. Ive never been dissappointed with Intermountain and Broadway Limited, and for the most part the Athearn Genesis line has treated me well. MTH makes some nice steam locomotives but I stay away from their diesels since they have a problem consisting with other brands but that’s a whole other can of worms. Id say half the fun of this hobby is doing the research and talking to fellow modelers about whats out there. Good Luck to you!

5

Thanks for your comments.

The reason I was asking those questions was to give me just an idea where to start searching. The layout I’m looking for to build was found in Classic Railroads You can build by Model Railroader Books.

The McCloud River Railroad era 1960 seems to be a fun litlte layout 6x10 with multiple different locomotives

Log flats, wide doors cars, diesels and steam. passengers and freight. SD45 and SD38 ( which I dont know yet what they really are looking, still need to learn about those locomotive) Also RS-12 and S-8 are a possible choice.

So that’s my starting point right now. I’m gonna include some basic buildings as weel, station, lumber mill, water tank, company house, restaurant and motels, etc.

I already know Bachmann and Atlas. I heard about a little bit about Marklin, Athearn and MTH Electric. The only thing I dont know is what would be strenght and weakness of each company. Details, reliability, pricing could be a start.

As for the tracks, I read that they use Code 70.

6

The first thing I would recommend is to figure out just what you would like to model. What era/ time frame, what RR in particular. Myself, as well as many others getting back into the hobby and “bitten buy the RR Bug”, just started buying everything under the sun that meets your “fancy” at the time. I did quite a bit of compusive buying of 100s of pieces that I had no real future need of.

I know that you’re asking about manufacturers so that’s a good start, not to gobble up any cheaper or poor equipment.

You may settle on a particular primary RR to model, but research this prototype as to what power and rolling stock was used for the local and period you’d like to model. Don’t forget that you could also model other associated and interchange roads. This won’t just limit your choices.

7

My self, I like Proto 1000 engines, good runners, fair prices and will take a beating. (running wise) They do not have much detail, but I am fine with that because I run my railroad 6 foot away from the layout. If you want small detail parts you will love the Proto 2000 engines.

Athearn RTR engines? My self I would stay away from them. I have 4, and only one still runs. There motors are hit and miss (mine where misses) and they can draw a lot of power and eat decoders.

Far as rolling stock, Accurail is pretty good. Detail are in the middle and they are easy kits to build.

http://accurail.com/accurail/ I have a few of there cars and do like them.

Cuda Ken

8

I am on a budget and prefer Proto 2000 myself. I have a lot of different manufactures but when I want something special that is the place I look. I have Proto 1000 and Athearn Genesis products also. If you want to experiment I would suggest buying some of the less expensive cars in limited volume. At one time I would buy 6 Lifelike boxcars to practice on with the airbrush and weathering materials. It is better to foul up a $2 car than a $20 car. I also second Accurail. At one time Athearn kits were the standard but no longer. I guess I am getting notorious for Bachmann DCC on board locos but they offer a good value for just everyday banging around. For under $100 with decoder installed in many cases if the cat knocks one to the floor I may cry a little but it is not the end of the world.

And If you do not have one yet get a subscription to this magazine. I have been a subscriber for many years and the last few years have been the most informative and helpful that I can remember.

RMax

9

Any model RR supplier who advertises in the major MRR magazines (Model Railroader or Rail Model Craftsman) makes good stuff. Quality is a matter of running well, looking right, and lasting long. Running well is a matter of staying on the track and staying coupled, and pulling smoothly at low speed. Looking right is a matter of fidelity to prototype, level of detail, and paint job. And HO rolling stock is VERY durable. Many of us have a fair number of cars and locomotives still running after 50 years of service.

The looking right category is subjective. If it looks right to you, then it looks right. Also, bear in mind that you, the modeler, can do many things to improve the looks of a model. Plenty of trainset toy cars are running and looking really good on many layouts after a coat of paint and some decals.

You will find your eye gets better and more discriminating the longer you are in the hobby. Go to train shows, go rail fanning, take some pictures, join a club, read some magazines and your eye will improve.

10

Rather than answer the title question, I’m simply going to point out that one man’s meat is another man’s poison. Since my very favorite manufacturers haven’t produced anything for the American market in forty years, naming them wouldn’t help much. OTOH, most of the `wonderful’ manufacturers others have mentioned don’t produce anything that would be comfortable on my layout.

A long time ago, a gentleman named Darwin proved that you can make a silk purse out of a mechanical and cosmetic sow’s ear. All it takes is the skills of a micromachinist and a willingness to spend time and money.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with kitbashed rolling stock of no acknowledged ancestry)

11

Anyone that has D&H models that I can afford to add to my collection… [:-,]

12

Many overlook Bachmann for good starter DCC OnBoard Locos. I am very happy with mine.

More are discovering Bachmann anew as well. They used to be known for ‘Cheap trainset quality locos’ that weren’t worth much.

But, Bachmann has worked very hard and dilligently at building better quality and detailed locos.

Their DCC OnBoard locos run great for me on my Bachmann EZ Command DCC system, but apparently on other systems,.people do like to change out the Decoders ofr “something better” in their eyes. The DCC SOund OnBoard locos are more expensive, but have good quality sound form all I know.

DCC OnBoard locos start at About $50 for diesels and $110 for steamers. Bachmann’s will elt you get your feet wet without spending a fortune in $100 bills to get started and find out what you like. BLI, MTH and the like can run you $300 for a loco…

One thing you will find is every manufacturer does not make every model, so if you are looking for a particular model loco, you may have t o pick the one who makes that model, rather than stick to one brand.

One thing that can sure help you is to read up on eras/loco models/railroads to help determine what you want in terms of loco model and railroad ownership of these BEFORE you spend a dime on a loco. Of course you can just buy any loco that appeals to you on the “It’s my railroad and I’ll run what I wanna” theme.

I hope you enjoy the hobby the way you would like! {there really is no “wrong way”}

[8-|]

13

Having been in HO scale for the past 8 years, I will just give you my experience with the manufacturers that I consistently go back to for my stuff.

I have used others, but the following are my “go to” manufacturers for consistent reliability.

Track - Atlas and Walthers Shinohara

Locomotives - Atlas, BLI, and Proto 2000

Rolling Stock - Whoever makes freight or passenger cars with the road name that I need.

Electronics - NCE

Structures - Walthers Cornerstone

Wheels - Intermountain

Couplers - Kadee

Scenery and Ballast - Woodland Scenics

Figures - Preiser

Vehicles - Classic Metal Works

Signals - Tomar Industries

Only when necessary do I purchase from other manufacturers.

Rich

14

have you loooked at this web site?

http://www.trainweb.org/mccloudrails/

15

Hi Clarence!

Welcome to the hobby and to the forums! For reference purposes I am modeling in the late 50’s ‘transition era’ i.e. the later part of the changeover from steam to diesel.

My personal favourites are:

Locomotives:

LifeLike Proto 2000 or 1000 - good runners (some gear cracking problems with certain models which are easily solved) and good detail, although some of the details are a bit fragile, like the lift rings and ladders.

Intermountain - good detail and great runners. Earlier versions have metal grab irons which are much more friendly when the locomotive is being handled.

Atlas anything!

Kato anything!

Rolling stock:

Accurail, Athearn RTR, Athearn Blue Box (with some TLC including metal wheels, Kadee couplers and weighted to NMRA standards), Atlas, Tichy Train Group (high detail level kits), Proto 2000 kits (small parts can be challenging at first). Plus any sow’s ear which strikes your fancy that you can weight properly and install metal wheels and Kadee couplers!

Track:

Atlas, Micro Engineering

Turnouts:

Peco

DCC System:

NCE Power Cab

Just for fun:

Old Roundhouse 3 in 1 kits (if you can find them) These are a combination of kit building with a fair bit of scratch building thrown in. They offer several neat kits.

There! Now you know where all my money is![swg][(-D]

Dave

16

There are bunches of threads concerning this topic in the forum. Instead of retyping what I’ve written in them I’ve just looked a few up.

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/202065.aspx

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/195999.aspx

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/148912.aspx

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/147804.aspx

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/166765.aspx

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/114986.aspx

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/103590.aspx

and a really old one

http://cs.trains.com/TRCCS/forums/t/27044.aspx

I guess my “preference” would be the one that is building the model of the locomotive that I want. Anything but MTH. I avoid them regardless of what they produce. I guess if everyone was producing the same model then I would choose the Atlas Master one.

The Prodigy Advanced? Interesting choice. I was not even aware they had a wireless component.

One could, and I guess people do write books about that sort of thing. There are some really greatly detailed rolling stock out there if one doesn’t mind paying $30-$40 per car. I’m

17

McCloud locos In the 1960’s and available models to replicate them:

Steam: Alco 2-6-2 #25 used for excursions: Do not know of a suitable model

Diesel

Four Baldwin 6-601500 all gone by 1969/70: model Bowser SP/Pe prototype w trolley poles anounced

One Baldwin S12 sold 1963 : model Bowser

Two Baldwin RS12 sold 1969: model Stewart

One Baldwin S8 (modified S12- built w/o turbocharger) sold 1969: model Bowser

One Baldwin AS616 sold 1963: model Bowser

Three EMD SD38 acquired 1969 : model Kato SD38-2?

One EMD SD38-2 acquired 1974: model Kato Sd38-2

18

Wow,

I’m more than happy with all the comments I’ve received.

I guess, I’m starting to get a good feel where to look now. Being able to see that a lot of you have interest in Proto 2000, give me a good idea where to start.

I think I really need to read a bit more about my subject and go to a club if possible to see actual models on a layout.

There is a club in my area. They have a meeting tomorrow night. I will be attending for sure.

Thanks again gentlemen fo your time and your answers.

19

I agree with Rich on this so I’ll use his list with a couple of changes.

Track - Atlas

Locomotives - Atlas, BLI, and Proto 2000

Rolling Stock - Whoever makes freight or passenger cars with the road name that I need, but I find myself looking for Atlas most of the time.

Electronics - digitrax

Structures - Walthers Cornerstone

Wheels - Intermountain

Couplers - Kadee

Scenery and Ballast - Woodland Scenics

Figures - Preiser

Vehicles - Classic Metal Works

Signals - Tomar Industries

Only when necessary do I purchase from other manufacturers.

Jarrell

20

Ok, I will chime in, for my diesel fleet:

Alco Models brass, affordable, easy to upgrade to run well

Kato/Atlas w/kato drives, smooth and silky drives, limited selection of prototypes however.

Stewart with Kato clone drives, almost as smooth as a genuine Kato.

Steam, nothing but brass, had to many issues with plastic ones, fragile ect, stick with older brass for

affordablity like PFM, United, Tenshodo, Westside ect. Drop in a can motor and decoder and

all set.

Decoders, TCS (Train Control Systems) has the best ablities to run dual mode. Almost totaly

invisible when running on analog DC. Sound I have decoders from all makes, love

Soundtraxx but not their price, unlike others I love my MRC sound decoders, no issues and

I have several in both brass and plastic locomotives. Same with QSI, would like to see the

Prices come down a bit however or start including speakers with them at the current price

I mean, come on, if its an EMD sound board, include a oval speaker and enclosure that

will fit in a narrow EMD long hood.&nbs