My layout looks like it will have about 10 swithes. I want to make them work electrically, eventually (but want them to work manually). I have a generous budget, but it’s against my nature to spend money I don’t need to. Which switches? And for that matter which track? Above all, I want reliability. Next would be ease of install. Next would be price. Next would be realism (really dont feel I need code 83, or whatever the newer more realistic code is. Also, do I go electrofrog or insulfrog. Again, those priorities. I dunno. Just Atlas is a no brainer. But I have a brain, so ???
Peco switches have a spring in them which holds the points in the position set so they will work without a switch machine or ground throw. For use with most switch machines (except Peco) the springs should be removed.
It is generally better to install switch machines with the track. Retrofit can be difficult.
Peco makes code 80 and code “55” track. I put “55” in quotes be cause Peco55 is really a double webed code 80 with the rail buried in the ties in such a way that it appears to be code 55 but functions as code 80.
Peco80 and Peco55 are compatable with other brands of code 80 track such as Atlas.
Some people don’t like the appearence of N scale Peco switches and track because its geometry is European, not US.
I use Peco switches exclusively. I use Peco80 for main lines mixed with Atlas flex track and even Atlas snaptrack. Peco55 for secondary lines, sidings and spurs.
Electrofrog and insulfrog are terms used by Peco. They refer to live frog and insulated frog respectively.
I run DC only and use electrofrog exclusively. The main differance has to do with where you need rail gaps and how many rail gaps are needed. I have read that there are issues with using electrofrog (or any live frog) with DCC but know that they have been used successfully.
I’ll second the Peco switch idea. I use Peco Code 80 Insulfrog turnouts with Atlas Code 80 flextrack. Honestly, the Atlas Code 55 looks much better, but it gets mixed reviews on performance. For me, anything short of complete reliability is a non-starter.
This is what my Peco switches look like:
I also use Peco exclusively on my N scale layout. I haven’t put switch machines in yet, but will go with Tortoise when I do.
I have DCC and use Electrofrogs with no problems.
Mike Tennent
There’s many ways to go, and it’s easy to get overwhelmed.
The Peco’s work great and look OK. Very similar in operation (center over spring), but a bit better in looks is Micro Engineering. The cost difference is not much, but the ME’s are a bit more fragile.
I’ve seen great things done with good old Atlas code 80 too. It’s pretty much bulletproof, though you may have to file a point or two. Weathered and ballasted, it can look good.
When it gets down to it, honestly, Peco code 55 just might be best overall. It’s code 80 rail buried in the ties a bit more. The biggest advantage is that it looks like code 55, but it doesn’t have the flange issues that go with it. The biggest drawback is the european tie spacing. The ties are further apart then american track. Weathered and ballasted though, it looks pretty good.
I was thinking Peco switches and Atlas track, code 80. Any issues there?
None! Done that on two layouts now with no problems!
The brand of switch you decide to use is effected by the size/number of the switch.
Atlas code 55 comes in #5, #7, and now #10
Atlas code 80 come in #4 ( I think ) and #6
Micro -engineering makes #6 in code 55 and code 70
Peco has a large assortment of switches including curved and single and double slip switches and a double crossover in both code 55 and code 80.
I went with the Atlas code 55 because of the looks and they were priced cheaper than the Peco Brand.
If I had unlimited funds, I would have gone with the Peco.
Craig
Welcome to Nscale!
The first choice is with plastic track (Unitrak) or flex (atlas).
Then code 80 or 55 rail.
You can mix Peco with Atlas track & turnouts. Depends on what YOU want to do!
You may want Peco to do your yards & industrial turnouts. Then you can stop for a moment to do your switching. Atlas remotes are good for mainlines & other uses.
Just what does the #4, #5, #6, #7 etc mean?
If I want to put a switch in a curved section, are there standard radii that I should build the curve to?