I am geting ready to do additions to my small layout, using N scale Atlas Code 55. In anticipation of soldering wires and railjoiners, what is a good, reasonably priced iron that anyone of you would recommend. I have looked at Weller and Hakko on line and am not sure of what I need. Help, please.
Bill
You want a 40 to 120 watt iron. The simple $10 irons sold in hardware stores are more than adequate. Model railroad work does not need a temperature controlled iron, we aren’t dealing with heat sensitive semiconductors, nickel silver rail doesn’t care how hot it gets. You want an iron with a chisel shaped tip, 60-40 tin lead solder, and rosin flux. Avoid the 50-50 solder and acid flux sold for plumbing. I don’t use the “lead free” solders for anything.
You want a solid copper replaceable tip on the iron. You have to keep the tip “tinned” that is covered with solder. When the tinning wears off or burns off you have to renew it, which may require filing the tip down to clean copper and applying solder to it. Sooner or later you will file off so much copper tip that you need a new tip. If you cannot replace the tip, then you replace the iron. Finding a tip to fit can be a hassle, so you want to ask for and buy a replacement tip when you get the iron. It takes years of model railroading use to wear out a tip, so a fixed tip iron is OK if the price is right.
Buy or make a metal stand to set the hot iron tip into. The metal stand will cool the tip and keep the tinning from burning off. And prevent ugly looking burns to the layout. Also a small damp sponge for tip wiping keeps the hot tip clean and bright.
Weller is an old line soldering company and anything they make is first rate (also expensive) . Hakko is not a brand I am familiar with. The basic simple no-thermostat irons are simple and cheap, you won’t go wrong with a no-name brand.
I use a Weller 25w iron for almost all my work. Tips are replaceable and can be ordered at most any good hardware store (good meaning old time type - big boxes will give the “look”). Good technique is far more important than a bigger iron…
Thanks for the tips, guys. I have a 25 w Shack that I bought severall years ago, it doesn’t seem to be able to melt the solder well enough for get a good bond. It is time for a new one! I’ll get one that should do the job, tho just a pencil-type . I appreciate the responses. Bill
This subject has been covered quite a bit here in the past. Try doing a search with the terms “solder” and “iron”
Bill,
David (dstarr) gave you lots of good advice.
I will just add that personally, I think that 120 watts is way too large. I prefer 35 watts; and 25 should work just fine with a clean tip. Also iron tips are great but do not file it or the cladding will go away.
disclaimer - I have soldered professionally for about 40 years. Much of this was on electronics. One does develop a touch for the art. Practice on scrap rail until you get the hang of it.
http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15860+TL
Haven’t bought it yet, but I’m going to try this one for the $$$. I preffer at least 40 watts for soldering track. (using a spade tip)
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I prefer copper tips. I did a thread on copper/iron two years ago here. When I couldn’t get a replacement tip for my RS iron, I made my own out of thick copper wire. Fry’s Electronics has a very large assortment of tips for many different soldering irons.
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I use a Weller model 336B 40 Watt soldering iron that works perfectly I’ve found the secrete is A: keeping the tip clean and B: using good quality solder & flux
I want to thank all of you for the vast amount of info you sent me. FYI: I changed my mind about getting an expensive one that I had chosen, and just ordered a much lower cost iron from M P Jones, in Florida. The only drawback, so far, was the shipping. UPS is all they offer, and the cost was about what I paid for the iron. Hope it is all worth it! Again, thanks for your help.
Bill[:)]
Bill,
Please let us know what you buy, its price and how you like it.
Roger
I use a Weller 140/100 watt soldering gun that I got at Lowe’s for under $30. It gets hot very quickly and I haven’t melted a tie or damaged a decoder yet.
I bought one of the Radio Shack 40w pencil types and it works great. Cost about $14 and it comes with a stand, replacement tips $2 and readily available so long as RS is open. I use it on Peco code-55 which is a little larger than Atlas cd-55 so should work great.
[tup] That’s what I use for track and feeders. I like it because it’s only on when I squeeze the trigger.
Enjoy
Paul
Chief:
This is a troublesome question. I use an old secondhand Wen 100 watt gun for almost all my soldering, including such simple electronics work as I usually do (generally with basic and rugged components). This is a great gun, but they don’t make them any more.
I like guns because they start quickly. I find that I melt fewer ties with the 100W gun than my 30W Radio Shack iron, maybe because the rail reaches temperature before as much heat travels away, or maybe because I’ve gotten better at soldering since I was using the iron. 
At one point, I was soldering rails with a massive beast of an ancient iron from a farm sale, similar to the larger one in this picture, but longer:
http://www.projectautox.com/large_soldering_irons.jpg
I still have it, but only for old times’ sake. 
Actually, I use an ancient Weller D440 140-210 watt hand cannon left over from Heathkit days. It will raise the rail to soldering temp very quickly, so it doesn’t melt too many ties. For soldering track I prefer the largest iron or gun that can reach and touch the work. More heat means faster soldering and less time to melt/scorch/set-fire-to stuff. For an iron, I’d pick the largest one with a tip small enough to fit inbetween the railhead and the rail flange.
A couple of ordinary alligator clips used as heat sinks will confine tie melting to just a single tie.
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Hi SF Bill,
Hope you have good luck and enjoy the new iron when it comes.’
I bit the bullet and bought a Hakko soldering station. Expensive but upon investigating it I found no complaints or breakdowns with it. Everyone had nothing but good things to say about them.
I like it very much, quick heating, easy to keep clean and adjustable if needed.
I understand those who mentioned (only ON with the trigger) (which I don’t have ) But I have been contimplating putting a foot control switch inline on the power cord. I think that would work great.
Johnboy out…
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I’ll bet that power cord has asbestos insulation.
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I agree, I too bought a Hakko, specifically the 936. It is the best soldering station I have used, 0* to 800* in under 30 seconds, many tips available, skins available for it too (to make it look cool!!). I use it for modeling, and R/C planes, and whatever else needs to be soldered. The main thing I like is that when I am soldering track with it, it is easier to pinpoint the heat due to the power of the unit (no melted ties, and if you have alot of soldering it goes real quick!!) I dont even move the ties when soldering on the feeders, and I solder to the bottoms of the rail only, no sides…this could not be done with a bulky iron, or one that does not have the option of a needle tip. While they are expensive, they are worth the money. I picked mine up at an electronics store in ATL for I think $100 or so. If you are saying “I cant afford that” then think about the next $250 plus engine you buy, not so expensive now. It is a worthwhile investment for a quality product, and it is esd safe (electronics safe, great for sensitive dcc equipment). I also use only high quality silver solder and wa
For a long time I used a Weller 2 stage gun, and a RS 25W pencil. But then I found an older battery powered Wahl iron in my Dad’s stuff. I thought ‘no way’ but gave it a try. Unless I really need big heat, it is the only iron I use. It heats fast enough from cold (about 10 seconds for the big tip) and even faster on reheat. I have a selection of 3 tips, but mainly use the largest and smallest.
The 2 biggest advantages are no stand (the tip cools almost instantly when the button is released, and it supports itself with the tip off the surface when put down), and NO CORD. Working on track wiring, under the layout, and on model wiring is much easier with out having to fight that cord. Just remember to charge it when the work session is over. It has stayed off the charger for over a week between sessions, but when it dies it dies.
There is a newer type of battery iron out with dual ceramic tips. Basically a mini arc welder of sorts. The tips stay cool untill they touch metal. But both tips have to touch at the same time to make the arc, heat the metal and melt the solder. It will not carry solder
Phil
