Again I have some rookie quesitons. This time about track selection.
In choosing track which seems to be the best, by best I mean …most bang for the buck, easily found, realistic looking, with the least amount of problems??
I think that the Tyco stuff from my childhood is not a good choice. I did have some flex track and see that it is still available and used somewhat.
I did some checking on the Atlas web page and got a reality check as far as price…but it should be a one time investment. Eventually I would like to use a DCC system with sound.
Wow, that’s a lot for a frigid Saturday morning at work in Michigan(the new Artic Circle)
I guess the coffee is really working today. Thanks in advance for the help.
If you’re looking for low price, good quality and ease of use, use flex-track with cork roadbed or WS foam roadbed. I use Bachmann nickel-silver EZ track myself because I like it.
I’ve never had peco. How do you like it? I’ve used ME engineering, Atlas code 83, and my favorite shinohara walthers code 83.
I think for someone trying to save a few dollars I would go with Atlas code 83 flex. Its already colored brown and looks good put down right away. I do however prefer walthers shinohara track.(I think walthers sells it now). And then I use Walthers turnouts which are actually shinohara. I prefer the power routing turnouts for DCC as opposed to the stupid DCC friendly turnouts.
For the best results and smooth operation use flex track as much as possible including the curves…The Atlas makes a bullet proof switch that is ready to use except for wiring the switch motor.
Remember some brands of switches may require soldering the frog area…Thats why I recommend Atlas track and switches for new modelers.
Bang for the buck-Atlas code 83. http://www.nhshobbies.com/ This place has the best prices. Good guy to deal with too. Try and use the Midwest cork roadbed. I used the Woodland Scenics foam stuff on part of my layout and I HATE it.[2c]
You can see the big differance in price between Atlas and Peco at the above site. I’m not knocking Peco. I just like the look of the Atlas better.
Hi, From another fellow eastern Michigan. I live not too far from flint Myself. When I was modeling in HO I used Atlas Code 83 flextrack on Midwest Products Cork Road bed. I know what you mean buy best bang for the buck I’m still a high schooler so I have little money(what money I usually have goes into gas for my truck or goes to my girlfriend.) If you get a change go out to durand to the old train station there and visit the Model Railroad Club there. We have alot of Micro Engineering, Atlas, and shinoharas. In our experience the Atlas turnouts are the most reliable and shinoharas are the second best. I do not recamend using Micro Engineering flex track at all. Its not very forgiving the only thing I like about it is when you bend it to match the curve it stays bent as opposed to Atlas which flexs back to straight unless its been in a curved position for a very long time.
Don’t use their switches (turnouts)? Why not? Their turnouts are the only ones I use and I don’t have ANY problems with and some of them are 6 or 7 years old.
I’ve had problems with the EZ track turnouts. They are easy enough to fix but you have to pull them out and get at them from the bottom. A PIA if you ask me. Especailly when sceniced into the layout. They also took about 45 minutes each of working them with a file to get them smooth. I eventually scrapped my layout just so I don’t have to deal with the EZ track turnouts any more.
EZ track is also very high. None of the factory loading or passenger ramps line up with the track without raising them 3/16".
I understand why you use the track Jeff, and I think that is a good application. But never again for me.
So if you are using E-Z Track what are you using for switches?
I am using E-Z for both HO and N scale, but I’ve all but abondoned E-Z on N because of turnout problems.
Atlas code 100 flex is almost bullet proof and the best price.
Atlas code 83 flex costs a bit more but looks more realistic. Personally I don’t mind tall rail, but the ties look better too.
The Atlas mark III turnouts are OK but I don’t care for their switch machines. (Look up the discussions on “tortoise”)
I use code 100 on the main lines, code 83 on the mountain line and occasional code 70 (whatever brand) for other purposes. I also use Walthers/shinohara turnouts. They look a lot better than the atlas but cost a lot more too. The code 100’s fit the atlas track fine, the code 83’s need about 1/32" of shimming because the ties are not as tall. I use two wood edge verneer strips. Each is 1/64th.
Whatever track you use, make sure that it is all nickle silver. No steel or brass. search the forum for tracklaying tips and take your time.
As you can see, you will receive a variety of opinions. All valid from the viewpoint of the modelers. Each person has had their own personal experiences which formed these opinions.
If you are looking for a fast way to get tracks in place, I like EZ-trak. I use them for seasonal layouts that I must install and remove every year. I have never had a failure and they very fast to install. No de-railments due to tracks either.
If you are looking for something more, something that you will have in place for quite a while and want to look a little more realistic, I would suggest Flex Track. As you have read in the previous thread replies, there are several manufacturers such as Atlas, Micro Engineering ( ME for short ) for Flex Track. Personally, I like Mico Engineering, The track is stiffer than Atlas, but I like it’s appearance better. It is also more expensive, so you have to decide " what can I afford" before making any decisions. Track, in my opinion, is the single most important part of any layout. In most cases it will be part of your layout for a long time, so if you are going to spend more money on anything, spend it on the best quality track and turnouts that you can afford.…it will be well worth it in the long run.
I can’t vouch for how long the turnouts will last, but I’m working on a layout using Atlas Code 83 flextrack and customline turnouts. I have had good luck soldering to the track - the plastic seems very heat resistant. I spend a few minutes on each turnout sharpening the points and breaking the sharp corners at each rail joint. I also took the time to solder a 30 gauge loop of wire between each point rail and it’s stock rail to ensure I don’t have any electrical failures in the future. I’ve put in probably a dozen turnouts and they all went in very well. I’m using Caboose Industry 202S ground throws. I did not wire the frogs, and all my engines do well over the turnouts. I find the Atlas track affordable and available.