Mookie,
When your through with your chicken soup…[:D]
Watch carefully, some cars will have stenciled on the sides and end “Contact Car Owner before any Repairs”.
Most of those are cars with special cargos or cars with a single special purpose and design, and need to be repaired only by the shop that built the car, or one with special equipment.
Do not confuse this with the sticker HOME SHOP FOR REPAIRS.
That means the car owner wants to do his own repairs in his shop, most likely for finical reason….he may decide the car is not worth the cost of repair, and scrap it.
As for welding on the tank, most of the tankcars are as described above, almost like a thermos, they all have a liner or inner tank, and the shell, which is nothing more that a protective cover to hold insulation over the inner tank, and to ward off punctures and absorb damage from switchmen!
Short of cutting big holes with a big torch, you can weld patches and make most repairs directly to the outer tank with no problem.
End caps, or tank heads as they are called, are thicker, often up to a inch of steel, to prevent the coupler of the trailing car from puncturing the tank in a derailment.
Older tankcars have a retro fitted sheild on the ends.
These cars are getting old, and should be retiring soon.
And tank cars also have shelf couplers, that lock together in a manner that keep them from riding up and over each other, for the same reason.
Most rail cars have a jack point on them, a place with extra bracing purpose built into the car for the express purpose of lifting the car with jacks, just like your automobile.
In fact, most of the jacks used look like a huge automotive bottle jack.
These points are designed to support the entire weight of the car, loaded or empty, and are an integral part of the car.
If you get close enough, you can often see them, marked with a stenciling and an arrow