I had to remove some decals from a diesel shell and when it dried there is a white film all over the unit. I am aware that the white film will disappear when the flat sealer cost is applied, but one concern that I have is whether the new decals will cover the film and it will show through. Anyone familiar with this and the outcome?
You gloss coated the model with Future, then applied the decals … what did you use to remove the decal ? I don’t understand how the entire model got a white haze on it.
My guess would be that you used a decal setting solution to remove the decals. If so the solution reacted with the Future which is normal. Give the area a fresh coat of future and it should clear it right up. Re-decal and clear coat as normal.
I have a question on the use of Future. Is is a good idea to use an airbrush to apply it? My thought was to apply it only to the area to be decaled. What are your thoughts?
I airbrush the entire model with it. That way after I dull coat it the surface is uniform in appearance. When I airbrush, I start out with a very light “tack” coat, let it dry for a few min. then start to build up additional layers. Since Future is mostly water you have to let the layers dry a little so you do not get runs. I don’t worry too much about building up too much as once it is dry the thickness is minimal. Once I decal the model and use the setting solvents on the decal I let it set for a day or two. I then dullcoat over the entire model. If done properly the setting solution will melt the decal right into the clearcoat and the edges will be invisible. While the setting solution is on the decal it will form a milky white haze under the decal. This will go away once the solution has evaporated.
This white haze is generally associated w/ getting alcohol on DullCoat. Was this model ever Dullcaoated and you used alcohol to renove the decals? I have never had any trouble using Future, but you may have different circumstances with the method used prior. Does the haze/ film change when wet? Have you thoughly washed any residue from the removal solutions?
I use waterborne urethanes regularly for cab/ woodwork finishing. Too heavy a coat will allow a milky/ haze. This will usually clear, however, it takes quite some time to “cure” Thin coats are all that’s needed. Not sure if this applies here, may need to just reapply a clean clear gloss and letter. Teast on a small area first to see what product will work w/o having any reaction. Don’t want to start getting too much build up of succesive coats of finish that even a dullcoat won’t hide.
Well, guess what happens when you use a product designed as a floor wax for model railroading? You don’t get the same results that you get when you use paints and coatings formulated for model railroad applications.
It seems like everyone want to save a buck by using really cheap stuff these day, then when they have a problem, they can’t figure out why.
Future acrylic finish (not wax) has been used by modellers for years. It seems it’s just been the last few years that the model railroad community has discovered its usefulness.