In assembling a model recently I used Walthers Goo for the window install both frame and pane. Kind of sloppy to use and not very forgiving if a mistake is made. So I decided to try Elemers white glue. I places the windows including the panes and just kind of blobbed the white glue onto all four corners as well as intermediate locations. Seems to hold well. A couple of unwanted spots were easily cleaned with water.
Anyone else have experience with this?
I like using white glue. It’s quite vesatile, easy to clean, and inexpensive. I’ve used it on my track to secure superelevaton plastic shimming on curves, and I have done what you are refering to by dabbing the corners of clear sheet for windows. If it works…go with it. I would discourage using the stuff if you were glueing plastic used for higher stess applications. White glue on plastic under stress breaks apart easily.
One more thing I just remembered…it’s almost transparent when dry. (Yow…it was a long night at work)
Mark H
I prefer something called Canopy Cement. Its name comes from attaching those clear plastic canopies to model fighter planes. It goes on white so it’s easy to see, but hardens crystal clear.
Is “White Glue for Windows” a Microsoft product?
Yep, it’s like white glue on steroids, has the same look and consistancy if not slighty more tacky, good stuff.
What material is the window and what material is it being glued to?
For styrene type plastic windows on a plastic frame, I set the window and then use a tiny brush with liquid styrene cement on it. Touch the tip of the brush to the crack between window and frame. The capillary action sucks the glue in.
This method works a whole lot easier (less precision) if the window “glass” is just a huge piece being mounted behind the frame.
There is also a product from Testors/ModelMaster called Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker. It is meant for use with styrene and is not toxic; it can both cement clear parts and windows without crazing or fogging, but can be used to make the windows themselves (if they are small enough) by filling up the opening (as their packaging says “this technique requires a bit of practice …”).
Dave Nelson
Something else has come to mind since this morning. Now that I’m better rested the brain is working a little better. I’ve been recently using Kristal Klear by Microscale. I believe it’s a bit stronger than ordinary white glue and it dries transparent. I’ve made small windshields, filled in F-unit portholes, and headlight glass. I’ve had pretty good results.
Mark H