Here is an example. The engine [2065] on the outside loop has new pill type element and pink insulation under it. I also adjusted the “flapper piston” tongue to make sure the piston made full stroke. The engine [my newest 2055] on the inside loop has been converted to the liquid type element [plastic top and round element] and pink insulation. The tongue on the “flapper piston” has been adjusted for full stroke. The outer loop enigne is probably pulling with more volts than the inner one as it has more weight. Track speed was about the same. Running them with 2 TPCs [one for each loop] and CAB1. You can see a big difference in smoke production. These pictures really do not do it justice. The 2055 looks like it is on fire.
2055 with new type smoke element:
2065 with new old type element:
New type:
Side by side:
Adjusting the piston tongue [what I call it] for full stroke is important in post war steamers.
BTW: first time I have run trains and drank coffee in the morning.
You continue to amaze me with all of these inexpensive upgrades to get trains to smoke better. I have my dad’s postwar 2037 that I might try the insulation trick with. Is it hard to do?
Nope. Take the top off and the element comes out with the top. If you can, get the new type element [round] with plastic top. Plastic top is becasue the round element does not come with covered wires. You can not ground the “inward” side of the wire [with meatal top it would ground out] but ground the “outward” end.
Next thing you know, Chief will invent a gadget to help keep #60 Trolleys on the Track & off the Floor! [;)][;)][:P][:D] With all that smoke in the house now his wife will wonder if He’s cooking Supper or running trains.[;)][:P][:o)][:o)][:o)] Take Care
Step by step with pictures for this newbie would be great. I’m a little lost here so please excuse the questions. Did you increase the smoke output with the insulation and adjusting the rod (and where is that rod) or did you get it to smoke more efficiently? Do you have to do both? Where did you put the insulation? Can I do this to my 2026 and 2046? Can I add a smoke unit to my 2036 without being an expert like you guys?
Step by step with pictures for this newbie would be great. I’m a little lost here so please excuse the questions. Did you increase the smoke output with the insulation and adjusting the rod (and where is that rod) or did you get it to smoke more efficiently? Do you have to do both? Where did you put the insulation? Can I add a smoke unit to my 2036 without being an expert like you guys?
Let me get home and get some time to photo. I just took shell off and too top off of old unit. Cleaned out the old gunk. Replaced it with pink fiberglass insulation, put the new plastic top back on with the new round element touching the fiberglass. Think I slid a heat shrink over the rod and where I soldered the “hot side”. Got the other side of the rod grounded good [may have soldered it [???]. Then I checked the piston travel. Bent the tongue like thing that pushes the peiston up and down. Made sure it came as far as possible down and yet still hit the inside of the smoke cylinder at the top [give only a lsight spring compression]. This insures you get a good PUFF. “Soak her” down good with smoke fluid. Fire her up.
Hello EZ-Mike! You would also need to change the Front Pilot/Cowcatcher assembly on your 2036 to the type used on the 2037s. The one on your 2036 does not have a notch in it for the Smoke Lever which is connected to the Piston in the smoke generator. Try Dr.Tinker’s Toy Train Parts as he has a website & he should be able to find one for you. Take Care.
Keith has it right about changing out the steamchest. However, the biggest problem is that the 2036 boiler doesn’t have the raised projections needed to cradle the smoke lever. These projections were added to the 2037 boiler. The steamchest Keith is refering to has a projection on each side, as well as having an open back. The projections on the steamchest slide over the projections on the boiler, which traps the smoke lever in place. While you could get a 2037 boiler and the other needed parts to add smoke, it would be cheaper and easier to buy a 2037 without a tender. You would have a 2037 if you did the conversion anyway.
Great smoke! Very impressive. I’m dying to try your magic on my PE berk. it really doesn’t smoke like it should; and never has. Looking forward to your step by step and pics.
Roland
P.S. Was it you that mentioned in another thread about a secret smoke formula you use? What was that recipe again?
