Todays models are not to be handled roughly, that being said I am surprised at how durable they are having a very detailed car by Tichy (or someone who used their molds like Red caboose), it was in a box that I thought was empty and it came tumbling out and hit me then the concrete, very little repair was needed except for a bent grab and a dislodged break wheel.
In the last two years, I’ve returned three locos! In all three cases these were more expensive locomotives and I will not get into what failure; or, problem occurred; or who was the manufacturer. The failures were because of poor design and mechanical failure. In all three incidences the locos had very limited time on them and in one, the product never worked right, upon opening the box. In this time period, I purchase 4 locomotives, so 75% where bad.
Possibly your experiences with your newer locomotives purchase have been better than mine and I would hope so. In all three cases, the manufacturer is standing behind their products, so I am thankful for that! However, now when I buy locomotives I pretty much expect that there will be some type of problem and it’s like that is just how things are today.
As far as the types of failures that occurred, I am not talking about some detail part breaking or falling off! The failures essentially made the model useless, unless used for static display.
Recent Athearn engines have very fine handrails with small holes that the supports fit into. They do seem to pop out pretty easily. On my MP-15 I finally took a toothpick and used some glue (I think ‘tacky glue’ but I’m not sure now) to hold them in place.
No offence meant to the OP, but maybe you would be happier in one of the larger scales like S or O, where the models are a little more durable. On30 and O “hi-rail” (1:48 scale models running on 3-rail track - see link below) are both growing parts of the model railroad hobby.
Some models in S have thicker or cast on handrails and other details.
But others have delicate details that have to be handled just as carefully as HO.
I recently had to reglue a grabiron that was either broken off when the car was put in the foam packaging or when I took it out. I also had to replace and touchup paint one that was missing.
Paul
If you want Athearn Blue Box kits go to any hobby shop or train show; they’re still out there in scads.
Which is exactly and precisely why Athearn stopped making kits and went exclusively to ready to run; RTR sold, kits didn’t.
One can not blame “rough handling” when models come with warp handrails,tiny parts laying it the car or locomotive’s tray.There are countless topics on several forums that mention QA/QC problems including parts falling off while the engine is being ran.
While I fully agree today’s models demands a light touch but, I’ll will maintain they have become to fragile and even adding KD couplers is a high risk move even when using a foam holder…
The above post is off topic! [#offtopic] However, I will respond…
I don’t know if I could go so far as to call an Athearn Blue Box locomotive, a kit! Installing the steel handrails and stanchions (which were/are a much better rails system than how the handrails are done now) was the extent of assembly, not much of a kit, in my opinion. I’ve never seen any information on how well Athearn’s BB Locos sold and I’d like to see any information you might have, proving your point.
Yep, there are still Athearn BB loco kits available, thankfully! At this time, I have all the diesels I need; however, I am always looking for good deals for my Grandson. Train shows; or, swap meets are pretty far and between, in my neck of the woods. But, I do go when they are within 150 or so miles.
I find the above post to be somewhat short sighted thinking!
Is this suggestion to switch scales to models which are more robustly made a statement that as HO modelers we must adapt to poorly built/engineered models?
If I read the OP correctly, the only part he describes as being a problem after handling was the cut lever that was defective from the start and finally broke after being repaired. He mentioned a bent handrail and a grill that popped off. Those all sound like factory defects to me…not owner mishandling.
Factories try to engineer the fine parts to press fit. They don’t use glue because the hand built nature of these models would result in glue spots everywhere. They don’t do much soldering of connections anymore, due to bad soldering jobs. Press fit parts fall off sometimes, clamped wires come loose sometimes. These are necessary evils of the manufacturing process.
I agree with the OPs frustration, however. There should at least be some way to return the product and get a replacement. Sometimes, I think manufacturers use their customers as their quality control department, they either fix the defects themselves or send it back…if the problems even bother them enough.
So OP, take it back from where it came and see what the dealer will do for you. You paying $300 and the company/dealer wanting you to be their unpaid QC employee is a bit of double dipping that the the customer shouldn’t have to tolerate.
Many manufacturers have responded to the desire by many model train fans for more finely detailed models in RTR form; this is a good thing IMO, as many of us are not steady of hand and eyesight to do high quality fine detailed work. I do work on kits but find I am pretty ham handed for example so the really fine stuff often results in frustration and things messed up.
Much of the products fine details, are by nature, fragile - which is the down side to the high level of detail, and require careful handling. It’s also true the some details detatch and may require re-gluing by the hobbyist - which shouldn’t be too major a problem for many.
Now if the OP, who hasn’t responded back in this topic so far, finds the fragile nature of many newer detailed models unacceptable, there are some decent quality HO models he can consider, such as Atlas Trainman, or even some of the Atlas standard line loco’s - which seem to have a decent level of fine detail but are a little less prone to breakage than some of the other brands.
No, it’s saying there’s really nothing wrong with the models in HO, but that it’s just a fact that some people are better working with very delicate things than others.
We all have strengths and weaknesses. I think I’m pretty good doing scenery and building and decorating kits, but I’m not great with trackwork. I appreciate the skill of people who can hand-lay track, but it’s not something I think I’d ever be able to do…so I use Kato Unitrack, which works very well for me.
NP2626 “I’ve never seen any information on how well Athearn’s BB Locos sold and I’d like to see any information you might have, proving your point.”
I’ve been modeling in HO off and on since the late 50’s. While I don’t have any sales figures for blue box locos, way back then, Athearn blue box locos were the hobby standard, unless you could afford brass imports. For essentially the same money as Tyco/Mantua, Life Like, Cox and others charged, Athearn provided engine that ran good, had decent detail and you could work on them. They weren’t rivited together like most of the competetion. I find todays dcc/sound equiped diesels a joy to own. I’ve never experienced quality troubles right out of the box. I like to do a little “tinkering” and realize I need to be careful when handeling them. As stated, there are lesser detail, less expensive models available.
Athearn has stated BB kits was not selling and they had to go to the current market demand.
You can find this in their Face Book blog or whatever face book pages is called. You will need to look it up but,its there.
I will take your word for it, Brakie. If we consider that the complexion of the hobby changed to RTR at about the time that Athearn’s Blue Box popularity fell off, may explain the change from kit to RTR. Ready to Run, is great for you guys who want it. I never did, as I loved to build my locomotives; hence my statement that I was happy with locomotive kits. Yes, Athearn, Mantua, Bowser and MDC Roundhouse kits can still be found at places such as train shows/swap meets and Ebay; but, their numbers are dwindling. That doesn’t speak very highly for what I like doing in the hobby!
I have also brought up the fact that of my four latest new locomotives purchased, three of them had major problems! Having worked in the machine trades for the vast majority of my life, 3 bad out of 4 is extremely bad quality control! None you made comment on this statement! Should I take that as it being indicative of what you all are seeing too? I would think that if you disagreed, you would say something.
The fragile handrails and details come from trying to equil brass model detailing with plastic, just does not work well. Just try to dust a model like this. Atleast if you bend a brass handrail, a little gentle pressure will return it back to normal shape. Of coarse a brass version of a diesel today will run you darn near $1000 per engine. I remember when I moved to mostly all steam in my mid teens. My choices were Mantua or Bowser diecast and the latter in kit form. Both needed extra detailing to look decent. Then you have Rivarossi, looked nice but other than the Heisler had pizza cutter flangers and a jack rabbit 3 pole motor. Then you have the choice I made, brass imports. But back then you didnt return it cause it ran crappy. You spent time at your workbench tearing it down and solving why it ran that way and fixing it. Yes back in those days of blue box engines, brass engines ect, we built kits and solved why an engine ran like crap. Now we just want to send it back and many times thats the only answer with all the electronics they have, no spare parts from the manufacture of the model. I repair trains for a couple hobby shops, I absolutly hate dealing with newer models, so fragile and complex to take appart. Three screws and I can remove the superstructure from my PFM/United brass ATSF 2-8-0, or any brass steamer for that matter. Now I have full access to the drive for service. I have owned newer P2K steamers, to fragile and I had axle cracking letting the drivers get out of quarter, similar to the cracked gears in the diesels. My 40+year old brass doesnt have that issue, just a new motor to replace the weak open frame, although I can replace the magnets in those as well. Quality control is how can we make this as cheap as we can and folks wont complain to loudly, thus maximizing profits. It is said in China they say “Nothing personal…its only business.” My favorite tables at a