Why does most rolling stock come with plastic wheels?

And before that, most models, if they came with trucks, had metal trucks and metal wheels. Most of these rolled like a brick. When plastic trucks, with plastic wheels on metal axles, came along, they were warmly received due to their excellent rolling qualities.

Never mind changing the trucks: do you really have a good reason to change the wheelsets? If the wheels are out-of-round (this was a problem with some manufacturers at one time) or not “square” on the axle, then by all means, replace them. Otherwise, I don’t see a valid reason to waste money on metal wheelsets. If you’re dissatisfied with the rolling qualities of your cars, invest some of your wheelset budget in the truck tuning tool, and use the rest to buy something more interesting than wheelsets. [swg]

[quote user=“TA462”]
I would like to see more kits without the trucks, wheels or couplers as I usually just

In N scale most trucks come with one-piece solid plastic or Delrin wheelsets. The obvious advantage here is that these wheels are nearly always in gauge; they can’t slide on the axles because they’re molded in one piece. And, of course, they’re cheaper.

Unfortunately, I’m finding after a heavy investment in Atlas metal N scale wheelsets that they tend to have gauge and rolling issues because the wheels can move on the axles.

When budget allows, I may invest in Fox Valley Models metal wheelsets. The serious N scale operators I know recommend them.

Happy Easter!

This looks like the same gadget that I referred to in an earlier post as “The Tool”. My guess is the same company makes them and Micro-Mark just sells it under their name.

Happy Easter!

Dave,Like most N Scalers(well dabbler since I model in HO as my primary scale) I have spent a small fortune upgrading my N Scale cars to MT trucks/couplers except on my 12 Red Caboose cars which as you know comes with MT trucks/couplers.

It would be nice to find a better solution.

Hi,

I just changed out several passenger cars and 125 freight cars to metal wheelsets (Intermountain). I’m glad I did, it was worth the bucks and effort. To get to the part that pertains to your posting, I previously bought a 6 inch digital caliper ($35), as I understood that there were different length HO axles. The tool was invaluable in getting the proper size axles and wheels, and I have found it of used for other mrr and non mrr uses since then. Ha, its one of those tools you don’t know you need until you get it!

Mobilman44

To answer another question, Blueprints I belive come with metal wheels. But good luck building the cars…

one word on why the common-as-dirt plastic------CHEAP!!!

Red Horse, a seller at the monthly DuPage County Train show here in Illinois has the IM#33, 100 for $53, but I usually get them from him for $50 cash. He says he goes to a lot of other train shows & in other states as well. I " think" I recall Walther’s had them in the last year or so for $58 or $62 (not sure which). So, you should be able to improve on the $65 price, unless you are out in the boonies far from anything.

Ken

Virtually ALL of my rolling stock for the last 5 years have been equiptted with metal wheels. Plastic wheels and horn/hooks thrown into the trash can on sight. Plastic wanna be couplers are tolerated until replaced with Kadee number 148. The funny thing about those fakes and kadees is kadees never fail.

I use a truck reamer from micromark and make the proto 33" wheels fit. If the truck doesnt workout or the proto does not fit then Intermountain is my next choice. If neither fits then the car is used as scrap material to learn new workbench things like weathering.

Long ago I used to buy Athearn Blue Box car kits (And still do today) at about a buck 75 plus tax and back then Kadee couplers were about a dollar a pair and metal wheels a bit more. If I knew then what I know today I would have bought it all for the 5 dollars I was allowed to spend instead of trying to buy three Blue boxes and wrestling with the coupler, wheel problems.

Finally but not last, plastic wheels equals dirty track for me so they are out.

Recently I recieved a set of three boxcars and they had plastics, the proto wheels and 148’s dropped right in without any trouble. Im happy.

The manufactors continue to offer crappy plastic wanna bes to save on money and make a profit or a sale. I dont know anything about this line of thinking so I leave it at that.

If you want to find out what riles me today is buying a 400 dollar steam engine with QSI sound and DCC inside built to the finest fidelity to prototype design to the last inch and they stick a dummy plastic coupler on the front cow catcher that needs to be cut off or butchered to make a [censored] kadee work properly when switching. Because of this, any engine without a working kadee on both ends WILL NOT be purchased by me.

Finally, an answer to my question![sigh] I was beginning to think that changing out the wheelsets was just a knee-jerk reaction to an imaginary problem, although I’d guess that the plastic wheels may only be exacerbating some other problem. I run mostly plastic wheels and haven’t noticed any correlation between them and dirty track.

You’ve certainly got that right. The dummy coupler may look better, but they should at least allow for easy removal of both the dummy coupler and the area of the pilot immediately surrounding the coupler shank. If there was some sort of standardisation here, Kadee could probably come out with an insulated, self-centering coupler (perhaps with various shank lengths) that would drop right in. I’ve modified more brass locos than I can count to accept a working front Kadee coupler, but it’s not really what I’d call a “fun” job. [swg]

Wayne

No, you must be a new modeler. When I started modeling in the 50s, the wheels & axles were metal. The change over in the late 50s- early60s when plastic injection molding became profitable. Even some of the metal engine shells were converyed to plastic. Jerry

To dehusman , of course I’m a new modler, do you think a seasoned one would ask such dumb questions…LOL!

I have learned so much here by asking questions and I feel inlightened.

Thanks everyone for your input!

Gratefully, A new bee, Jess Red Horse.

Falls Valley RR wrote:

You mean, if you were a New Haven RR fan, you wouldn’t be buying one of these:

Hey, it’s a $400 steam engine with QSI built to incredible detail…and it’s got a plastic dummy coupler that’s under that shroud (it swings out…just like the prototype). [:D]

Paul A. Cutler III


Weather Or No Go New Haven


If I were a New Haven fan, and bought one of those good-looking locos, I’d put a working Kadee swing coupler on it. Mind you, it probably wouldn’t be self-centering, and it definitely wouldn’t have the uncoupling pin. I did one many years ago, although I don’t recall the particular model, other than it was a brass loco with a “cast steel” pilot. The guy who owned it often doubleheaded his steamers and I don’t think that he owned any that didn’t have working front couplers. It’s even easier to do a working drop coupler using a Kadee, although it would be a lot easier for both types if one were using those Sergent couplers, which are scale size. [swg]

Wayne

I dont need an extra passenger engine thank you. Ive already taken care of passenger power after waiting two years for a PCM B&O PAcific that is still not in production.

My last engine purchase was a Roundhouse 2-8-0 that has couplers on both ends. If runt company can build one, the big fellas ought to too.

There was a few times that I opened a Athearn BB and there were metal wheels. Now maybe like 2-3 times. Only think I could think of, that the car was used before and just complete taken apart. The cars looked in great shape thou. Who knows.

Well, the littler kids in this hobby, don’t usually care for metal or plastic wheels. They also don’t care if the locomotive’s wheels are plastic. Life-like/ Walthers non- proto trains usually have plastic wheels on rolling stock & dummy locos. All little children who have model trains just want a running engine.

I wish you had read this message before sending it.

Mark

That is probably the best explanation.

I have a lot of rolling stock with plastic wheels. Maybe I’ll change over, but as long as they don’t cause problems, I won’t fix something that’s not broke.

I do have a slew of P2K wheels for when they do need replacing. [:D]

Rotor

Not too many plastic wheel sets in S, but I replace them with NWSL metal wheelsets. While NWSL are ready to go, some of the other metal wheel sets I find are helped by polishing the axle ends with very fine sandpaper.

Personally, I like the sound of metal wheels on metal rails.

Enjoy

Paul