Howdy, Alan,
The usual term for what you call a, “Ramp,” is grade, or, in the configuration you describe, nolix (non-helix.)
So, if your grade is going to be hidden, lay your tangent track inside a steel stud, rain gutter fashion. The narrow size sold by Lowe’s and Home Depot is wide enough, even though it’s less than three inches wide.
If, however, you want your grade visible, you might do what I do. My subgrade is 100mm wide (4 inches, close enough.) If I want a track on a narrow ledge between a vertical (blasted, with shot bores visible) rock face and an abyss, the track goes down the middle of the subgrade, the rock casting (about 10mm thick) goes along the back and the 50mm between the track centerline and the edge gets a sturdy fence (three strands of wire ‘cable’ between, and soldered to, finishing nail posts) high enough to keep derailed stock on the roadbed, Other details might include small trees with solid armatures and underbrush formed around a window screen base.
During construction, there’s no law that says you can’t put up a temporary fence of something cheap and simple, to serve until final detailing is done. I collect the stiff plastic packaging that a lot of products come in. Drill a few holes, drive a few screws and who cares that the clear plastic was originally part of a box of strawberries. (Curves on my hidden track have safety walls cut from saltine boxes!)
My own variant on your theme is a single track that squirms down a canyon, alternating short tunnels and oxide red deck girder bridges separated by short lengths of visible roadbed. The bridges don’t have side walkways, so I’m depending on reinforced vegetation at the bottom of each drainage to prevent a disaster from becoming a catastrophe. Also, like my prototype, I will have continuous guardrails all the way down the canyon. Interestingly, the tallest bridge is actually th