Hi all,
I have alot of old Atlas track on my HO layout’s center peninsula that keeps giving me fits, maintenance-wise. It is nickel-silver, but it sure acts like brass! I’ve read about the GLEAM approach dozens of times and many people swear by it. But before I go that labor-intensive route, I want to make sure it isn’t already too far gone.
This track has been nailed to the homasote for over 13 years, not only on my current layout but also the one in my previous home. It’s been covered with stuff like joint compound and WS Scenic Cement, then [before I knew better] I used a wire brush attachment on my Dremel to clean off the hardened gunk. I’ve brightboy’d the track a dozen times since then just to get my locos to run passably ‘ok’ on it. It even looks like brass track - the metal reflection has a sort of yellowish tint - and I always need to rub it down (all 200ft of it) before I attempt to operate on it.
I read somewhere that nickel silver track is NOT 100% nickel-silver, but only has a thin coating of that metal on the surface; I’m concerned that I may have completely rubbed off all the nickel-silver coating and exposed the underlying brass. In which case, doing the GLEAM exercise would be a total waste of time.
Do you think this track is beyond repair?
I suspect that it is Brass–the only problem I’m having is that I heard that Nickle/Silver coats didn’t last very long—and this was —oh --20 years ago?
I would think by now that the profile is all off. Worn down. Basically kaput. Even if you GLEAMED it it would be just miserable running. Me, I’d go get new—it would save headache—
I don’t know about your nickel silver rail but mine (Bachmann) looks to be nickel silver all the way through. If you in serious doubt as to the makeup of your rails clean a section and study it closely. If you can see a brass color in some places on the railhead you may well have scraped the ns layer off. If not, try the GLEAM method on a section three to six feet in length. Sand first with 600 grit followed by 800 grit or finer. Use a piece of stainless steel (I use a piece I cut from the handle of a stainless steel spoon) that can span both rails. Press down on it and move it back and forth along the track. This will burnish the rails and close up those nicks and gouges that are holding dirt and crud. Now apply a thin coat of metal polish (I use Blue Magic cream polish) to the top of the rails with a piece of cork. Cork roadbed material or cork from a bulletin board will work. Allow the polish to dry. Buff the polish off with a clean piece of cork then vacuum up any debris. Don’t leave any polish. Give the rails a quick wipe with a clean dry cloth then test it with your most picky loco.
Hi, Ken!
It sure wouldn’t hurt to try a few feet. A lot of my NS track has been reused multiple times on a number of layouts. I tried all sorts of cleaning systems and products and still had to Brite Boy if I wanted to run trains.Gleam really does work for me.
The way I do it is this:
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Brite boy the track.
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11/2" steel washer rubbed along the top until you “feel” the difference.You’ll know what I mean.
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Sqirt a little Blue Magic metal polish(comes in a white and blue bottle, I got it at O’rielly auto parts.) on a piece of cork roadbed and apply it to the rails. You don’t need alot.Be careful on ballasted track, too much will leave a bluish residue. Easy to clean up but a PITA.You’ll see the cork turn black.Let the polish sit for a few minutes.
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Using another piece of cork, “buff” the track.You’ll need to do this a number of times,swap out the dirty cork for clean stuff.The feel and sound will change from whooosh to almost silence.You’ll know that when you do it,too.
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I usually finish up by dry-wiping with a scrap of terrycloth towel. You’ll still see some black residue on the towel. I keep wiping till it’s not so noticeable, about 2-3 wipes.
That’s it. I do the steps around 3’ at a time in stages. That way when one section is drying you can be buffing the last, eg.
When I want to run trains, a simple wipe with one of the wife’s makeup remover alcohol thingy and it’s good to go.And that’s only if they haven’t been run in a while, just for dust removal.I also gleam the track as I lay it, after weathering but before ballast.
Hope this helps.
Terry(You can use the Centerline as the dust remover, run it dry.)
Chief:
Yes, “GLEAMing” will work. I use it on my mixture of old, worn brass, NS, and steel. They all work fine. My track dirt is just plain old dirt, and it accumulates on the NS just as quickly.
NS is not plated. It’s solid. It also has a very slight yellowish tinge. Nickel silver is an alloy of copper, nickel, zinc (usually), and Burning Justice. Your track is most likely NS. Brass is dark yellow.
The Bright Boy might be causing your problems. I think they are about 70 grit. That’s pretty coarse, and the scratches left might be trapping your local dust. 600 grit sandpaper is what I use on old, neglected track.
Gentlemen,
T****hank you for your replies! Just to clarify, I pretty much already know how to do the GLEAM work - I just want to make sure I’m not wasting my time when I do it.
AP, I sure hope your theory is the correct one - and it sounds like it would be, because the hint of yellow I’m seeing is very subtle, unlike some leftover pieces of brass track in my junk bin that look almost orange/brown. 70 grit on the brightboy, huh? Geez, no wonder my poor mill track is so sick all the time, LOL
BTW my main line track, which has never been touched by a brightboy, has never given me any power pickup problems!
That should tell you something right there. I used to use a brightboy. It seemed that if I used it one any one area I would have to keep using it there more and more often. I finally learned why.