How can I replace or bypass the circuit board on a Williams F7 from about six years ago? The motors are possibly D.C. Tested the motors with an H.O. transformer and ran fine when wired straight to the H.O. transformer track voltage terminals.
Looking to wire it for running one direction all the time.
Already tried a bridge rectifier and it didn’t work.
Lee F.
Williams has a diagram on their web site that shows you how to wire and engine to run or be “locked” in any direction.
Jim
Jim,
The diagram don’t match my circuit board!
Lee F.
Philly, I guess you’re screw-diddly-ooed! [(-D]
Jim
Jimbo,
Is that anything like taking a long walk off a short pier?[B)]
Lee F.
Lee, baby! I’d rather walk off a pier where you are than where I am. You know I like to pick on you every once in a while. It’s because I like you, man.
Call or write Williams and ask them what can be done. They are very good at customer service.
Jim
The bridge rectifier should work, …that’s all the HO power pack is. All my Williams engines run just dandy on DC from a bridge rectifier.
The “~” terminals/leads go to the track(either order - it doesn’t matter) and the bridge rectifier “+” & “-” terminals/leads to the motors, and you are ready to roll. Switch the “+” & “-” to change the direction.
Rob
I agree with Rob. Be sure to use a big enough rectifier. The little 1.4-ampere ones are fine for car lighting; but you need something around a 5-ampere current rating for a locomotive. Any rectifier you buy will have a high enough voltage rating. Make sure the motor wiring is connected only to the rectifier and not anywhere to the locomotive frame.
Bob,
I already have a 6 amp bridge rectifier wired as descrbed but the motors won’t spin. The little brown wire that goes from the frame of the engine to the motor frame is still conected, from what you are saying I need to disconnect this wire correct? Do I need a diode or two also, like in an alternater on a car?
Thanks for the help!
I only buy 6 or 8 amp bridge rectifiers, anything lower won’t handle anything for me.
Lee F.
Jim boy,
Are you afraid of a little cold water, like the Atlantic Ocean? How do you think that Flipper or his relatives get up to you man?
Anyway I contacted Larry Harrington @williamstrains.com by email, the reply was he would get back with me later. It was an automated reply!
I find the people at Williams very helpful even when they don’t have an answer for you.
Going outside to work on my sprinkler system, have to do something on my day off!
Lee F.
The brown wire is fine, it’s a ground lead for better ground integrity through the trucks.
The “+” & “-” leads of the rectifier should go to the each of the two small solder tabs on top of the can motor(s). Try just that 1st, nothing else, w/ a small accessory transformer powering the rectifier “~” leads to leave everything else out of the circuit. Report back!
Rob
You should be able to use one of the boards that Williams now sell.They have very good instructions and have all the plug-ins needed for the board to be installed.I’ve replaced a coupl of older Williams boards with these and have had no problems,one in an older DC Trainmaster.
Ed
I swapped the leads around and it works now! Radio Shack’s directions were wrong about wire placement. Before I swapped the wires it would sound the horn in the B unit constantly.
Lee F.
Jaabat,
Are you ready for your swimming lesson?
I got my F7 running with only a bridge rectifier!
Lee F. aka Phillyreading
I’m ready, Lee. When can I come down and get it? Ever see what happens to a guy when he jumps in the cold Atlantic this time of year? Not good (or big)!
Congrats on getting your Williams running!
Jim
Who says that you have to jump into the Atlantic ocean? Ever hear of a solar heated swimming pool? Are planning to come down by yourself or with the family?
Now I have to put the F7 back together, the shell is still off, waiting to solder the connections too.
Lee F.