wiring

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

Ok, I’m not really that ‘new’ to the hobby but this is my first REAL attempt at building a layout and I’m just about to the point of needing to start wiring. I know two things about electricity/wiring. 1 You turn the switch on and lights come on. 2 If something is fool proof then I can surely find a way to goof it up. Does anyone have any thoughts on the wiring book that MR puts out ( Easy Model Railroad Wiring) on this matter as to whether this is the easiest to follow and understand or is there another book that spells it out in kindergarten language? I live in the Boise, ID. area so if there is anyone out there nearby who would like to offer some advice I’m all ears. [:I]

2

Hi!

Easy Model Railroad Wiring by Andy S. is a very good book, I think. It helped me a lot. It covers the basics and goes beyond to give you about all you will need for either block DC or DCC wiring. Reverse loops, turnouts, etc.

3

Dale,

I think you have so few answers to your question because it is obvious from the two things you “know” about electricity that you don’t. Sorry, don’t mean to be cruel. May I suggest that you find a fellow model railroader who can show you how to wire properly and that you practice before you get too involved in the layout. It is really not all that hard, if you take your time and follow a few simple conventions (rules). Start very simple and then when you are comfortable (and successful) with what you have done, then try something a little harder.

If you are going to wire DCC, here’s a couple of simple rules to get started with:

  1. Use two colors of wire of the same size (14 AWG stranded) to be your power bus. Pick colors OTHER THAN red, white, black, and green. I like orange/blue or gray/yellow.
  2. Choose one wire color to ALWAYS be the rail away from the center of your layout. The other color is ALWAYS the rail toward the center of your layout.
  3. Drop smaller feeder wires from the rails OF THE SAME COLOR AS THE BUS WIRE. Do not mix colors.
  4. Drop a feeder (20 - 22 AWG stranded / tinned) from all sections of track. Do NOT rely on rail joiners to carry power from one rail section to another. Use “suitcase” connectors to attach the feeders to the bus wires. Never, ever cross colors.
  5. Use insulated rail joiners on BOTH frog rails of every turnout. Decide if you are going to use insulated or powered frogs. Powered frogs require another feeder and a single pole double throw switch to change the polarity of the frog when the switch is thrown. For your first time, you probably should use insulated frogs.
  6. Test as you go. Get a small transformer and hook it up to the bus after making a few connections. The trains should move on the connected section(s) of track. If you get a HMMMMMMM, and the circuit breaker trips, you have a direct short. Find it and disconnect the offending wire.

That will get you started. Th

4

here is something else you might want to consider…study the above mentioned books over and over until it’s in your head…yes, it looks complicated, but if you trace each wire, you will find it’s not that hard…it takes time to wire, but it’s not hard…each electrical component must complete a circuit ( complete a circle) in order to work…that’s the easiset way to look at it…it must travel from the power pack to an on /off devise or a circuit that makes it go on / off, then to a load (ie…train motor, light, ect…) and then return to the power pack…even DCC does this in a round about way…E=I/R Chuck

5

Rob Paisley has some very nice basic explanations of how this stuff all works on his web site here:

http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/Basics/BasicIndex.html

–Randy

6

Mark C., I am also a beginner in wiring and wanted to know when using DCC, do you have to use insulated gaps in your yard?

7

I’m a newbie, but, just today I picked up a copy of MR’s “basic wiring for model railroaders” and it looks pretty good with clear, concise, simple lauguage and good photographs. As mentioned above, it does discuss DCC and also talks about wiring lights and accessories. Personally, I’m glad I spent the money, It looks like it will be well worth it.

8

mkrom,

Yes, gap the rails at the frogs. When in doubt, gap the rails and drop feeders. It is the safest way. For newbies, use insulated rail joiners rather than open gaps in the rails. If you use the Atlas joiners and they are too long, trim them slightly on each end to make them fit. Remember, rail joiners are for track alignment.

I found some insluated rail joiners that looked to be a heavier type of plastic than the Atlas insulated joiners, and they were much smaller with a lower profile. I wish I had found them before using a bunch of the Atlas insulated joiners! The stiffer insulated joiners do a better job long term. I’m sorry I don’t know who manufactures the better joiner.

Before ballasting your track, run on it a bunch! Use several engines of different types to locate places where power is lacking. Fix these first before going to scenery.

Mark C.