I have a box car that is driving me nuts with its wobbling side to side. I’ll admit it was a blue box cheapie, so maybe I’m expecting too much but is there any way to fix it?
Jarrell[banghead]
Check the wheelsets for a damaged one - I’ve seen Athearn wheelsets that have one of the wheels driven at an angle on the axle - probaby didn’t seat in the press properly. Also check that the truck screws are tightened properly - the truck should swivel freely, but one should be tight enough that it ONLY swivels, the other should be allowed to rock slightly - 3 point suspension. There might be some flash in the truck bolster or on the frame which doesn’t allow the truck to sit properly on the underframe.
–Randy
Thanks Randy, I’ll check those things.
Jarrell
Jarrell,
On BB cars, sometimes the screws are tight and there is still too much play on both ends. In that case you need to get some shims from the LHS that fit between the truck pivot and mount point on the frame. I used .010 thick shims stacked to suit but don’t remember the diameters. Still do just one end as Rinkersan said. Hope this helps. J.R.
Thanks JR!
Jarrell
One of the major causes of wobble with Athearn “blue-box” cars is the plastic wheelsets. Plastic wheels from just about any manufacturer are not cast perfectly round, and will cause wobble to some degree. The problem tends to get worse over time as the unpainted plastic attacts dirt while rolling around the layout. The best long-term solution might be replacing the wheelsets with high quality metal wheels from Kadee. Depending on where you get them, they might set you back about $3.00 a car, but the improvement is worth it for me.
I got a BB wide vision caboose that shimmies like a bellydancer down my mainline, its a sight I have slowly started replacing plastic wheelsets for plastic ones. I have some boxcars that came with metal wheels and they run so much better plus the clickety clack sound between railjoints is neat. So replace the wheels.
I have found the pivot for the truck(Bogie) that is molded on to the frame of many kits are too long to permit the screw from being tightened fully to restrict the movement to pivot only and not wobble. I found adding shims between the bogie and frame will throw out the coupler height of body mounted couplers.
To overcome the problem I carefully file the pivot on one end. This usually only takes a couple of passes with a Points file I purchased from an Automotive Parts store. I then assemble the bogies onto the frame.Tighten to let the screw restrict the movement of the bogie then undo the screw to get the right amount of movement, usually 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
If you have a track guage for checking wheel sets, or access to one, it is a good idea to check all wheel sets to ensure they will run true and check the wheel set in the bogie to ensure they are not offset as this will cause problems also.
All up this takes about an extra 5 minutes to do but your rolling stock will be better behaved for the effort.
I finally corrected it by tightning the screw all the way then slowly backing off to about 1/4 turn. But, I’m going to take the advice and replace the wheels with metal ones. I think it will improve them and I like the clickity clack too. The real ones clickclack all the time… 
Jarrell