Does anyone know a good way to lay Woodland Scenics roadbed and line it up with the track properly?
On my last layout I used cork and it was pretty simple. Lay the track, mark the center and then lay the cork on the centerline one side at a time.
I’ve spent more time tearing parts of this stuff up and laying it all over again than I would have chosen.
I guess next time I will go back to cork, but I am too far into this project to start over now.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Wade
Wade, You should be able to do the same with the WS foam roadbed. Split it down the middle and glue up to the mark. I don’t do it that way though. I find it easy to mark the center line then make a second line half the width away from the centerline of the bed I’m using (I use both the Woodlands Scenic and the late lamented AMI rubberized stuff). Hope that helps. J.R.
Thanks for the reply!
I never thought of that. It would be really easy to cut with a pair of scissors and apply one half at a time.
I guess I was so frustrated that I couldn’t see the forest for the trees.
Wade
I don’t bother with the center line – I mark the track outlines. Since I’m a convert from HO, I laid most of the track plan using HO sectional track. It just happens to be the exact same width as N scale roadbed, so I made outlines with markers on my foam base and simply lined the roadbed with the outlines.
Same here, mark the outline. I made an arc stick for curves. Simply take a 3 foot piece of 1/2" plywood cut to about a 1 to 1.25" width. Put a nail through one end to be the center of the arc. Then measure out starting at 18" from the nail and drill 5/16" holes every 1/2 inch until you get to 32 inches or so. Then stick a pencil in the hole you want and draw your arcs. It has served me well. For straightaways, I just cut a 4-6’ piece of wood the same width as the roadbed then lay it down and draw the outlines as needed.
I just drew along the outside of the track, no centerline, spread a very thin layer of latex caulk (could still see the pencil marks - any more is too much), and put down the roadbed. I centered it between the lines (the roadbed is wider than the lines) as I went.The caulk alowed me to slide it to make smooth straight lines without wobbles, and to smoothly run the curves.
I did not split mine. Combine with the caulk for adhesive, I found it easier then the cork I’ve always used in the past.
–Randy
You shouldn’t have to use a scissors to cut it. There is already a center line cut in the foam. Just carefully pull the two halves apart.
I have a piece of WS foam roadbed about 2 inches long that I use for a template. I cut two small notches in one end that just fit over the rails, so the template is automatically centered. I put down the track and then just slide the template along, marking the edges with a marker pen.
Another technique I use is to cut and lay the roadbed without glue under the track. When I’m happy with it, I mark the edges.
I use 2-inch foam, so I typically lay down the track with roadbed, and then pin it in place with a few paper clips bent into a long U shape. (A paper clip just fits the small holes in the center of the track on Atlas snap and flex track.) I’ve got one loop that’s been in place like this for over a year, pending scenery work that will require removing it temporarily. This is a good way to put down track temporarily as a test to see how you like a plan, without committing to it.
Great idea Mr B…I think I will try that too.
This time around I used Elmers Squeez’n Caulk, clear to glue down the roadbed. If it isn’t where you want it just take the end and gently pull the bed up. Comes up in one nice piece. You will find a little glue residue on the board but you can either put grass on this, gravel, or whatever. [yeah]