I’m in the process of building a small shelf layout and I wanted to know if anyone has any experience with the Woodland Scenics track-bed product. I wanted to try something other than cork roadbed.
Thank you for your help.
If this is the black stuff that looks like soft foam, than I’ve used this through my entire layout. I had previously used cork on a HO layout (current layout is now N). IMHO (in my humble opinion) it is much easier to work with than cork and I don’t see how it could ever “dry out” as I’ve seen cork do.
One issue I’ve had with it is incosistancy. Some of them are a tad wider than another so when you butt them up to each other it doesn’t look “perfect”.
However overall, and again my opinion, it is better than cork. I’ve not ballasted my layout yet but from what I understand once you ballast it, nearly all of it is covered anyway.
I had never done roadbed before and I chose to try the WS Foam roadbed. (for HO) It was easy to handle and flex into curves even to 18" radius. It is split but I found that splitting it was not necessary. Being foam, I think it will hide minor imperfections in the surface underneath better than cork. Since I consider my layout temporary, I used a 50-50 mix of white glue and isopropyl alcohol to glue it down and used the same for the track on top. (most people use a thin layer of latex caulk to attach roadbed and track) I’m very pleased with it and will use it when I do a larger layout.
BTW - [#welcome] to the forum.
I love the stuff, too. It’s very easy to work with. I use 2-inch pink foam for my base. I use Liquid Nails for Projects to hold the roadbed to the foam and the track to the roadbed. (Sometimes I use white glue for the track, too.) It’s all nice and solid once the ballast is down, too.
I started over last year and everything was new. I tried Woodland Scenics foam road bed and loved it. I am a fan of cheap clear latex caulk to glue everything to everything. I use WS low temp hot glue to attach insulation foam blocks to each other for scenery.
I used it on my latet layout and I love it. Glue it down with cheap latex caulk. Glue your track to it with the same cheap latex caulk. No nails, nothing. A few pins help hold things in place while the caulk dries. Try the 24’ rolls for long runs, fewer seams = smoother roadbed.
–Randy
Same here. I’ve used it on my entire layout and love it. I use 24’ rolls for everything except the yards. I use the sheets there. I’ve bucked the trend for glue and use yellow wood glue instead of caulk but it sounds like either works well.
I’ve used the WS foam and cork.
I really liked the WS foam, and it was easy to work with.
In the end, though, the flexibility of shaping (planing the cork) and it’s stiffness has been a big advantage.
So for me, cork, which is cheap and can be shaped is a big advantage. The foam can be cut easily, but not really shaped, and it’s a bit too springy for anything other than just roadbed.
But if it’s just roadbed you need, it works well.
Randy
Thank you all for your helpful thoughts and ideas.
i also use the foam roadbed on my entire layout…i only have one complaint…over time if for some reason the ballast gets bumped…the springy of the foam breaks off the ballast in chunks…no matter what glue you use…
I’ve also used it on my N scale layout and also love it! It’s so much better than cork-which I used on my previous HO layout-to work with. I used WS FOAM TACK GLUE to glue it down and Elmers glue for the track.
I want to second what everyone is saying. I built my last HO model railroad which was about 10 x 27 ft using exclusively the WS foam roadbed and their glue. I’ll never go back to cork or wood. It is just easier to use. I used push pins to hold the track down until the glue dried. - Nevin
In an effort to ‘learn’ the WS system before going in whole hog I purchased one of their little dioramas to get started. However the instructions leave a bit to be desired on how to lay down this foam. Looking at the N-Scale size if I try to turn it at all, it kinks up. I’ve never used a roadbed material before but I thought you split it in half, and there was a pre-cut line to do so. However I’m not seeing anything that would let me do that. Am I missing something?
It IS scored down the middle to be cut if needed (on the back - the side that usualy goes against the table). But unless you are using small-radius curves you shouldn’t have to cut it. 9 3/4" radius N scale sectional track probably counts as small radius. I haven’t needed to cut mine for HO does to about a 22-24" radius, other than to fit in around track switches.
–Randy
A lot of hard sell here. I’ve got both cork and black WS foam on my layout. The foam is coming out. I don’t like the sponge feel to the track. While Randy Rinker has convinced me that clear acrylic caulk is akin to sliced bread, I still like track nails too. Nailing Atlas code 83 flex track to WS foam is a tricky affair. The WS foam compresses very differently than foam cork and I find it extremely easy and likely that using nails on the foam can distort the track.
I know, I know, don’t nail, use glue. I like using both techniques.
Joe Daddy’s [2c]
Visit my train blog at http://wwwjoe-daddy.blogspot.com/
I keep my 18 lessons learned by a newbie there.
Joe-Daddy.
Thanks for the counter point. I’ve got some cork coming in to my local hobby store as someone bought all his stuff last week and I’m going to try it out as well as try out the foam and see what I like best. My first experience with the foam was I assumed I could just pull appart the two pieces and uh, no, you can’t. So i’ll get some more and do it the right way and see what I can come up with and what works for me. The foam did feel a bit squish but I’ve not gotten the ballast on it yet because i’m letting the glue dry.
Trekkie,
You are welcome.
I wrote a poll on Trainboard some time back about what is the most recommended roadbed. It can be found at this link.
http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?t=77882
The data says 3 to 1 favor Cork over foam.
Joe Daddy
Fellers,
I use cork for the simple reason that it won’t dissolve when I spray paint it. Over the years, i developed my own method of painting track and ballasting. After the cork and track are in place, all nice and solid, I take a spray can of rust-red primer and spray everything, including the cork. Next, I make a 5:1 water to paint mix of black acrylic and wash everything with a 1" wide brush. After that is dried, I make another wash with a 3:1 water to paint and then run that over the ties and let it dry. Afterwards, I use a 1/2 inch brush to paint woodland scenics’ scenic cement onto the cork roadbed sides, and then dust on the fine ballast with a plastic spoon. Works like a champ, and looks really good without all the misting, wetting, drizzling, etc. The inner section of the ties I do with a small brush, one space at a time. Takes awhile, yeah, but gets it done with one coat, and to be honest, it really doesn’t take all that much longer than the traditional way of doing it.
The foam is just too springy for me, and like I said, one dusting of the spray paint and it’s all a melted pile of bubbling tar.
Respects,