Am re-doing one of my layouts and was considering choosing the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed system instead of cork. I know cork regularly comes in strips that pull apart and you apply one side at a time. This is great for curves, because one side will be longer than the other. It seems like the WS stuff, especially if I go with the rolls, does not split apart like cork does. My question then is: How do you make it go around curves without getting puckering on the inside of the curve and extreme stretching on the outside of the curve? I’ve not seen the stuff in person, and WS’s website doesn’t give info in this area.
Basically, it just doesn’t. You just curve it. It actually does have a line scribed to cut it apart if you really need to, but unless you are laying trolley radius curves it will flow nicely withoot any splitting, and it doesn’t pucker on the inside or stretch too far on the outside.
–Randy
Ditto to what Randy said; he’s certainly more expert than I.
I’ve never used cork but used the foam as my first attempt at doing roadbed. I found it very easy to bend around a curve without needing to split it. I used it with sectional track where I had to match the foam to the sectional dimensions. I think it would be easier with flex track and using easements into your curves.
Good luck.
Thanks for the reply. The tightest radius is 18 inches, so it looks like that won’t be a problem.
I know it’s bad form to reply to your own posts, but here’s an update. Yesterday (Saturday) my wife and I made the trek to Gene’s Trains in Brick NJ (We live in Trenton). Tried bending the WS foam to and 18 inch radius and was NOT happy with the results. Simple put, I couldn’t get it to not pucker on the inside of a curve when trying to form an 18 inch radius curve. Would have to split the pieces, and didn’t want to do that in the shop.
Sorry Randy, but I just didn’t have the good experience with it like you seem to have had. And it’s not like I’m a new modeler either - been into HO for just shy of 50 years. Guess this old dog can’t learn this new trick and will stick with cork. Why don’t I go the Homasote route? Just too much humidity in my train room and no place to put a dehumidifier.
I have used the WS foam roadbed, and always split it for the curves. I am also using 18" radius curves. I have fround that it works better if you use a knife to slice the two halfs, as just pulling it apart, doesn’t end up with a smooth edge. I also mark the track center lines on the sub-roadbed and line the half pieces up with the line, usually the outside curve side first. The inside of the curve is then easier to apply. I have used white glue, and caulk with equal results, but the caulk sticks quicker.
Sam
I also found that the WS roadbed puckered when curving – especially when getting down to 18" radius. I e-mailed WS customer support and they replied saying that the beauty of their foam was that it didn’t need to be split (like cork) for curves – just curve it in full pieces. I still found that splitting it was the best bet. I was using the 3’ sections, not the rolls, and it did split easily.
Ultimately, though, – for me – the ultimate solution was to use cork. I like its sturdiness better, I like laying it better, and I like the way it looks better. WS is marketed as being quieter. Since I have both on the layout, I can easily compare… and find no difference in sound levels.