I’m trying to figure out what kind of turnouts I would need to make a little yard on my small 4x8 layout. So far I just have one industry built and figure while I’m waiting to find time to build the other one I should maybe put a yard on my layout. I’m wondering what size turnouts would be best to get the curve and everything. I don’t have a lot of space, but I’d like to get at least 3 seperate tracks in the yard.
I would most likely get Atlas turnouts so if you could give me the size of the Atlas turnout that would be great.
Atlas “snap” switch turnouts equal 1 peice of 18" radius track with the included peice of snap track. These and #4’s are fine if you don’t have any long cars. If you plan on using any longer cars or passenger coaches, you shouldn’t go any smaller than a #6 or preferably a #8. You have to balance available space with the length of your rolling stock.
loathar
Jim, for the yard, go with the number 4’s. They will give you a better line for your ladder.
Here’s a photo I took on Friday to get you inspired. This in the Minnesota Commercial’s A yard, just north of the Amtrak depot in St Paul. Note the first turnout leading to the group of tracks on the left. The leg is actually curved, just like a snap switch. The rest of the yard is made up of normal straight leg turnouts.
ATLAS #4 turnout’s were designed for people’s Yard’s on 4 X 8 layout’s. The (ladder)track spacing also allow’s ‘finger’ room to handle cars.
Shinohara/Walthers #5 turnouts are for the ‘pro’s’ with larger, more realistic layout’s.
Atlas ‘Snap switches’ (notice the terminology) are for beginner’s, and have simplified plastic frog’s that will ‘fit’ into an 18"r. curve design.
The wider the curveture (higher the number), the more equipment will go through it. Example: a 4X8 layout with ‘Snap’ switches will severely limit the equipment option’s you will be able to run.
GO with #4’s for yard’s, #6’s for main, and 'snap’s only for spur’s you back car’s into. That will cover 95% of what you’ll buy .
I always get confused on this one. Is an Atlas “Snap” switch different than an Atlas #4. From what I’m seeing above it is. How are they different?
Thanks,
Jack
I highly advise you listen to this advise Don had:
I finally got rid of a lot of my previous headaches a few days ago when I put #6’s in on my passing track instead of snap switches. With six axle locomotives, they tend to derail quite easily going through a facing point off of the spur side. Definately listen to this advice. I wish I had known this about six months ago when I relayed all my track work.
What’s the difference with snap track and regular turnouts?
The 3 turnouts I have now are not snap switches I don’t believe. I think they are just Atlas Mark #6 turnouts.
I’ll maybe pick up some turnouts with the locomotive I buy. I’m debating whether or not to get the Dash 8-40B or a GP38-2 now. I need a bigger locomotive so I’m thinking the Dash 8, then it’s just the road name. Narrowed it down to NS or UP, and that I’m thinking UP.
A snap switch, as previously described, is designed such that the diverging route (with the short section of curved track) is equivalent to an 18" radius piece of sectional track while the straight section is equivalent to a 9" section of straight sectional track. This makes a layout using only sectional track easy to build.
A numbered turnout is designed such that the diverging route of the turnout is at a given angle from the straight portion. (You’ll likely need to use flexible track and/or sectional track cut to custom lengths to work with these turnout types.) The number of the turnout corresponds to the number of units of measure down the straight section you are before the diverging track is one unit of measure away from the straight track. For example, with a number 6 turnout, 6 inches from the frog, the centerline of the straight and diverging tracks will be 1 inch apart. Another way to look at is is the lower the frog number, the sharper the angle. Thus the bigger frog number you can use, the better.
