Hello all,
While installing Kadee #5 couplers on my HO yellow box RSD-4/5 . I quickly discovered that something is wrong. The tiny pins that hold the kadee #5 coupler in. Don’t go all the way down. Causing a drooping coupler.
I installed the little copper doodads along with the #5 .
I’ve dropped the pins in,mashed the pins further down and screwed the pins in.
Nothing works !
Still droopy couplers.
What am I doing wrong ?
Patrick
The depth of the coupler box may be a little larger than the shank of the coupler. Try placing a shim(s) inside the coupler box to take up the slack. A piece of cardstock cut to fit the interior shape of the coupler box will do. Pay attention to the installed coupler height as this will determine whether the shim(s) must go above or below (or both) the coupler shank.
For future reference, Kadee #148 “Whisker” couplers are direct replacements for the old #5 and are MUCH easier to install.
It’s been some time, but I don’t recall Kadee #5s being used on those Atlas diesels, mostly due to the draught gear box being too large - both in width and length.
I think Kadee #7s were the suggested type, although I do have an Atlas C-425 which is equipped with #5s. On that loco, though, there’s quite a bit of space between the draught gear box and the end of the trucks.
If that loco does have room for #5s, the shims suggested by Hornblower should rectify the situation
Wayne
According to the Kadee conversion list you should use #38 couplers.
https://kadee.com/conv/hocc_atlas.htm
Peter
This thread prompted me to put Kadees in my Yellow box RSD unit. Kadee couplers always work best in Kadee draft gear boxes. I use Kadee 242 universal boxes. They’ll have to be modified a bit to work here, but it’s easy.
Your loco should look like this with the original coupler stuff removed.
Kadee 242 universal box
With a sharp new exacto blade, cut the closed end off the box, so that it’s 0.350 long. Otherwise it will interfere with removing the body shell from the frame. Also remove the flanges from the top and bottom of the cover.
This doesn’t interfere with any of the coupler’s contact areas to the box.
Now snap the cover on the box. Note that the printing on the cover goes to the outside, naturally. You can see the flanges were removed here.
Next you need a fine cut flat file to file down the 4 outside surfaces of the box, as it is just barely too big to slip into the coupler opening on the body shell.
Then it should slide snug into the opening. I used a 2-56 screw to hold it in. I will go back and file the back of the coupler box smoother, and use the exacto to carve the little part of the body shell away so the screw is flat
Thank you Hornblower . Had to use a styrene shim & screws with a coupler box.
Thank you Wayne .
Thank you Peter.
Thank you Dan.
My little RSD has her couplers and she’s almost ready for heavy mill service . Will use Kadee 148’s from now on. Yup, a lot simpler.
Thanks guys for the help.
Patrick