Frist had a problem fresh out of the box. Hook the draw bar to the tender and sparks flew? Fellow M1A listed a repair from Tony Train world. Seems the sound pot hits the reset jumper and cause it to make the chassis hot, that = sparks.
Before I read this post I fixed it by using a plactic screw in the thender with the head cut off so the draw bar would not ground out. Problem gone! Latter I used the Tonys fix but left the plactic screw to be safe.
Leap forward, engine started make a click sound when ran. Lubed up but to no revel (still clicking). BLI sent me the new center rear, I installed (leap of faith I will add) and ran great for around 4 weeks.
One night I started to run it throught a driffrent turn out, would stop and could feel a snag when ran through by hand, it was the plactic screw being a little long. OK, I used the Tonys Train world fix so I installed the factory tender pin. Started sparking and shorting out? Installed a new plactic screw, sparks flew again?
Open the tender and pulled the sound pot that should have be causing the short, ran agin, sparks? Ran with no tender shell, sparks! Unhook the draw bar and runs fine.
Before you answer remember it sparked New Out Of Box NOT AFTER I STRIPPED DOWN THE ENGINE TO BARE CHASSIS. Plus it ran around 40 hours after I took it a part with no problems.
I have 3 ideas.
1 Drive my 68 Road Runner over it and send it back to BLI.[:D]
2 Ground the board with rubber
3 Look at the mounting points of the tender trucks.
I can see white spots on the tender chassis by the mounting point of the pin (remember it is now a plactic screw with the head cut off) where the spark is jumping. I installed electrial tape and that has stopped the shorting but don’t want to leave it rigged like that. I want it right. After all it is a BLI, not a Tyc