One of the “new” techniques I used on the recent rewiring was the shrink tubes. They were a lifesaver, but I forgot to mention them in my earlier posting reply. The “goop” I referred to was a help in more complicated wiring connections, which were only about 3 or 4 in number.
Also used were “suitcase” connectors to connect a second wire to an existing wire, and the cramp style connectors to connect two wires together. All worked fine, but I still check with a tester after making the joint.
I’m pretty well color coded, and the rewire is fairly well organized. And yes, I do have diagrams, which will be re-done to include in my binder of notes.
All that being said, I still like to make a nice, neat, solder connection!
I just ordered (All Electronics via internet) 25 - dual row 4 position barrier strips and the total delivered was $31.00. That is about half the cost from Radio Shack - although you did have to buy a minimum of 25 for that price at the net site.
I am into “neat” and your wiring certainly qualifies. The biggest advantage of neat wiring, aside from the aesthetics, is the ability to trace and fix problems quickly.
I used the Scotch “suitcase” connectors on one module, then switched to the Posi-Tap connectors for the rest of the layout. They go on much easier and more quickly. You can buy them in the automotive department at Wal-Mart or order direct from the factory.
Sometimes I think too much has been made of the soldering vs. mechanical connection issue in model railroading. Yes, soldering is solid and nearly 100% reliable, but a properly-made mechanical connection is darn near close to 100% as well. Think about all the wiring stuff you encoutner from day to day - most of the wiring in your car, appliances, phone jacks, computers, etc. are made by mechanical connections. How frequently does that stuff really fail due to losing electrical continuity? Not that often, in my experience.
That being said, soldering does have one other major advantage over most mechanical connection methods, and that is cost. It is way cheaper to solder a bunch of connections than to buy all the terminal strips, connectors, etc. Sure there’s more labor involved, but by the time you fiddle around with mouting terminal strips, unscrewing (and losing) the terminal screws, crimping spade connectors, etc., it takes about the same time overall.
I have a sectional/moveable layout and generally solder wherever I can, but do not hesitate to use terminal strips or plug connectors where it will make life easier when disconnecting and transporting sections.
I spent 41 years as a Serviceman & Service Supervisor for a large Gas Company. A good number of those years were spent servicing LARGE commercial and industrial boilers, burners and other gas equipment in all types of environments. Even Heating Units on the roofs of apartment buildings that were exposed to the elements in our hot humid summers and our D----d cold winters. Every one of them had at least one or two terminal strips to connect all the components to their respective circuits. In all those years, I do not remember any terminal strips that were corroded badly enough that I had to change it. There was probably a few that were tarnished a little, but they never caused any problems in that respect.
If you just snug the screws down firmly, I do not think that you will have any problems in regards to the terminal strips and any changes will be easy to accomplish.
Ok I have been watching this thread with intrest as it was my understanding that you should not mix aluminium and copper wiring ( several house fires because of this after aluminium wire came out ) but run aluminium to aluminium terminals and copper to copper ( or tinned copper ) terminals.
You’re not going to have a problem with the screw terminals provided you torque them properly.
Remember, your entire home wiring is connected with screw terminals. They work well.
Cars are subjected to much more humidity, temperature variations and vibrations than MRRs. In automotive applications screw (bolt) terminals are used in the starter input, alternator output, relays and ground connections to name a few. Rarely do I find a problem if the proper torque is used.
I’ve been to the bar at Grand Central Terminal in NYC. I suppose we aren’t talking about, are we?
I’m probably going to use terminal strips for my new layout. I’ve got a bunch of DC locos and when the layout is done, the hobby budget will then be used to upgrade to DCC. By wiring BOTH rails in each block back to the control center, the rewire to DCC will be both mentally and physically simpler. I’m still a bit vague on how to apply this stradegy to turnout controls. By the time I get to that, the answers will have been covered in MR’s DCC corner column, I hope.(or did I blink and miss it already?)