The good thing is Firsthobby is gona give me the SD75M and not exchange for another SD70MAC. I will never buy another SD70MAC from athearn again. BNSFrailfan.
I hav’nt had any experience with them. I was going to buy an SD70 but was turned away by having to install ditchlights. And the Kato ones you have to install dozens of details. somebody please tell me the holes are predrilled[:(]
You dont have to install ditch lights. They come already in. In fact with a little wiring you can make them flash alternately just like the real thing. looks pretty neat.
Give me the older Athearn’s F7s any day
are there problems with the Genesis F7s? I would like to know what they are? I am mainly concerned with operational problems. I am not too worried about the detail stuff. Can the problems be fixed
Thanks
I have a SD75M in SantaFe colors and a SD75i in Canadian National colors. Both are a perfect match with the pictures of the real engines; that can’t be said of my Kato engines that either don’t have the right cabs (2-piece windshield instead of 3, or straitht windshield instead of angled one) nor the right paint details like an orange side sill stripe on a CN Dash9-44C).
The Genesis engines run as good as Kato or Atlas as long as they run on curves broader than 18"; my son’s layout has such curves with tight turnouts and we get occasional derailments on these turnouts (I might try Joe’s cure to handle that). But on my layout with nothing under 22", everything is perfect. I have an eye on more of these SD70 and SD75s.
Martin
Québec City
Wrong.
With the first SD70Ms (non-RTR), you DID (DO if you buy off the shelf or e-Bay) have to install the ditch lights, which were/are a BIG PAIN !!!
My F7s are Stewarts … which beat the Athearn BBs for running, paint and detail.
I own several different F unit models, including Stewart FTs, F3s and F7s, and
one set of Genesis F3s and also several Kitbashes of different Fs using
Highliners shells and different drives. The Stewart-Kato drives are still un-
matched. I have several that are over 12 years old and still run like new.
That being said, I am quite pleased with my Genesis F3 A/B set. They
run very well and the body detail using the Highliner shells is superior to
the Stewart shells. My only personal complaint with them is the infamous
“as delivered” detailing. I am able to get a more accurate unit by using
the undecorated Highliner shells and putting them on other drives. I have
used Proto 1000 drives on two so far and for the price they are excellent.
Another excellent drive is the Intermountain drives which they sell without
shells. These run beautifully and have good lights and details-i.e. class
lights, speed recorder cable and brake lines all installed. But, back to the point.
I am basically quite happy with my Genesis set, but since I prefer to build
my own Fs, I probably won’t purchase too many. (The ones I have came from
a swap meet.)
This sounds to me that the SD “C” trucks are having trouble following the rails with even pressure on the wheels. Drilling out the center bearing to allow some slop makes the truck act more like a 2 axle unit- would track better of coarse. My only problem with doing this is now you will loose the driving power of 4 wheels not to mention that after many hours of running what is to become of the axles/bearings themselves. Just because the center wheels are turning doesn’t mean they have any wheel/track pressure.
I had a similar problem years ago with the early runs of P2K SD7s and 9s. After many teardowns and checking for problems I called Lifelike and talked to Larry Grubb. The problem was determined that the trucks were too tight and did not have any side play/ wobble at the bolster. Light sanding of the retainer/ fingers on the worm cover allowed the trucks to have a bit of “suspension” to allow all wheels to maintain better rail contact where track is uneven or at frogs etc. You must be careful how much side play you make as the engine would end up with body wobble or torque rocking when changing direction. I treated this as you do with rolling stock trucks by allowing only one of the trucks to wobble/ have more side ply. I found this to solve the problem with all of the units, and shortly after contacting Lifelike , I recieved new worm covers from them that were to remedy the problem to boot.
I don’t know is the trouble with the Genesis is the same as that on the P2K but I would check it out before doing anthing drastic to the truck bearings.
Hope this could help.
Bob K.
I mostly have British Rail loco’s from Bachmann UK and German/Dutch loco’s (Fleischmann).
I wanted also something typical American so I recently purchased 2 dark green loco’s with “Pennsylvania” written on them from Athearn Genesis. One of them has a big nose and a cab, and the other one (without a cab) is coupled immediately behind it.
All 8 axles are powered which is great.
They are very nicely detailed and yesterday I tried them at the modelrailclub : I was surprised to see they run quietly and smoothly and also powerful (each of the loco’s pulled 13 (US) wagons with ease !).
I think Athearn Genesis has the same high quality standard as Bachmann UK.
I have the CHALLENGER,SD-75I,2-8-2 MIKADO- the only problem so far was/is the MIKE, the first Mike split a drive gear (loco replaced by the LHS where I bought it) , the Mike is a little light in the loafers when it’s time to pull a train , although it is nicely detailed(I have a RIVAROSSI MIKE tha is only slightly heavier that will pull twice the train than the Genesis Mike). The CHALLENGER and the SD-75I are the cat’s meow for detail and performance.
I have every Athearn Genesis Warbonnet that has been made and am very happy with them.
The Mikes are a little light but my layout is only 12’ X 15’ so I can only run short trains. They pull 9 - 14 cars OK.
Of the two SD75’s that I own I had to rework one truck as it kept derailing on the curved switches. I enlarged the axel hole.
I have 2 Spartan cab NS SD70s.These units runs just as slick as my Atlas and my 4 Kato GP35s.FWIW there is probably 50 or so Genesis locomotives on the club’s layout…I have not seen or heard of any problems with these engines.In all truth the only time I hear about problems with these engines is on forums and usually by the same people…
For those they may wonder before my heart attack I would visit several clubs in a 75 mile radius of my home and would talk to the members plus,I know 70% of the surrounding counties modelers by name…
Where the heck do you people get the money to have 8,9,10,11,12, or more engines???I can barely afford one athearn regular[?][?][?]
Our Genesis 2-8-2 is a real dog. It’s been back to the factory twice, won’t stay on the track (where others engines never have a problem), has no tender pickups, and lacks pulling power.
It is both interesting and of concern that there are so many differences
of opinion on these locomotive models. It appears that the Genesis
quality control is extremely inconsistent, if some people have problems
and denounce the product and others have no trouble at all and like them.
This is where Athearn needs to sit up and take notice. I still have had
no problems at all with my F3A/B set. On a different track, the Genesis
rolling stock is really nice. I have 4 of the PC&F boxcars (GN of course)
and they are beautiful. I just wi***hey would release more equipment
of 50s and 60s vintage in this series-they are certainly doing plenty of
modern equipment. Just my additional [2c].
Rick,Due to the bad stuff I read on the Spartan cab SD70S on the Atlas forum I wasn’t going to buy any…Then the Genesis locomotives started showing up at the club…I ran a set of CR SD70s across the club’s layout and I was highly impress so,I bought 2 NS units and have not regretted doing it.
My best advice to you or anybody that is interested is to test run one at your local shop and visit a club in your area and ask questions.
I’ve heard that the early Athearn Genesis models were very inconsistent in quality but the newer stuff is great. I myself own 4 SD75I’s and 2 SD70’s and Im very happy with them all. I also have around 20 Genesis box cars and I’m very happy with them too. Their 60’ Gunderson box cars have great detail and roll very smooth.
READ THIS BEFORE DRILLING!!!
The discussion regarding truck derailment reflects a common problem; however drilling out the center axle bearings can lead to premature wear of the drive gears of ALL the axles, and a aforementioned, lose the electric contact of that axle; intermittent contact of this nature causes static noise that is not conducive to DCC. The REAL PROBLEM is due to the truck’s contact siderail; you will find that it is BENT. During assembly, excessive force is placed on the siderail; this is a trick truck to assemble without bending it. if you carefully dissemble the truck as JPM335 suggested and inspect the contact siderail with a straight edge, you will notice the middle axle bearing hole is not in line with the outer bearing holes. since this a stamped piece and made of soft metal you can realign the center hole by bending it slightly. CAREFULLY reassemble the truck and test operation on straight level track to see if the middle axle bounces when running. Otherwise, contact Athearn and they will send you ALL FOUR rails to replace them. Their response on this issue is quite good.
Carl Marchand
Tampa, FL