Am I missing something here? I operate a Z-4000 w/handheld remote, conventional mode only. Lowest setting/start up voltage reads 5 volts on transformer, which is also indicated on handheld remote. I was wondering why it was hard to get some of my larger engines to really creep along at low voltage, so I put a volt meter across an unoccupied block, and my 5 volts actually reads 10.5 volts! So it appears my start up voltage is actually around 10 volts. Unit is only a year old. Also, I would think occasional derailments due to operator stupidity should trigger the breakers to pop.They never have. Any ideas? I would hate to have to send unit back for repairs and be without power for weeks!
"so I put a volt meter across an unoccupied block, and my 5 volts actually reads 10.5 volts! "
To accurately check the voltage, you need to have some kind of load for it to work against, like an illiminated passenger car or caboose. Starting voltage is supposed to be in the 5-7 volt range to accomodate older PW trains that needed 5-7 volts to start.
I set out a lighted caboose on same block, set transformer voltage to 5 volts, and get a volt meter reading of 7.5 volts across the rails. Again, I always thought 5 volts on digital transformer meant 5 volts output to rails. I guess it’s time for another beer!
Older transformers were just variable tab step down units. Newer units are all based on electronic switching power supplies (like you find in a computer). These require some kind of load to actually start doing anything. It would be nice to have a calibration button/switch on the units so you could adjust the readouts.
Great. A 50% error on a digital readout. The more I read about modern power supplies the more I like my ZW.
Which also starts out at about 7.5 volts, but at least it doesn’t lie to me about it.
Old 2037