Hello, I was wondering if anyone models in the 1880’s? I would like to build an N scale in that time frame, complete with general store, saloon, sheriff office, horses, and so on.
I would like to run some passenger cars as well as others, What other cars were used back then? Maybe some stock casr and what elece? Thanks, Mike
There’s a few of us. Check out the following post, stop in and say howdy.
Thanks SpaceMouse, I read over them very quickly and found some very good info there, I will read them closer when I have the time. Mike
I model a New England rundown shortline the 1920’s (N scale), so many of the buildings and rolling stock (loco’s too) are from around that vintage. MDC/Athearn makes some great rolling stock and loco’s. The loco’s (2-6-0 & 2-8-0 circa late 1880’s - early 1890’s) are tender drive, but they’re high quality.They also have passenger cars of various configuations and sizes, and other rolling stock. On my other computer that I can get to tomorrow I have some links to buildings and horse and buggies. I’ll post those tomorrow, OK? Here’s one to get you started: http://www.musketminiatures.com/ . Check out all of the stuff there. Lots of good stuff!
The difficult part of this project for N scale is the track. Everything available is about 3 times too big for that era. But if you could lay, say, code 30 rail, then you should be good.
David B
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Civil_War_RRs/ this link is for a group that models the US Civil War, but most of the equipment used in 1863-5 would still be in use in the 1880’s. There is no membership fee or dues, just apply at the link & you will be in in a day or two.[C):-)]
Micro Engineering has code 40 rail. That would be close enough I’d think.
Still a bit heavy, but it seems to be the only real choice.
David B
So… Your telling me that there are 2 different size rail in N scale? I know that is the case in HO but was not aware if it in N scale. There seems to be a lot I need to learn about building an N scale RR. Any more advice I need to know? I have built an HO scale but want to try an N scale, You get so much more on a 4X8 than in HO. I don’t know if my eyes will let me do it. With the help of magnifing lenses I am going to try. Thanks, Mike
It’s not the only reason I model the 1880’s but one advantage of the small steam and cars is that you can use tight turns and sharp turnouts. I have no problems with 15" turns and #4 turnouts with anything made for 1880’s. That means you can do a lot that the later layouts cannot, even in HO. So if N scale is too small, you can still do a lot more in HO and still look good.
N scale comes in at least code 70, 55 and 40. There may be others I’m not aware of. Although it may look better in a prototypical sense to go with the smallest rail out there, no one will come to your house and shoot you if you go with one of the heavier, more common and cheaper tracks.
In fact, very few people will notice anything other than the cool trains and buildings.
First off, an Optivisor is your friend!
Second, there are lots of different codes of rail in N scale. There’s code 80, code 70, code 65, code 55, and code 40 for the most popular ones. Code 40 is pretty much a Micro Engineering thing, nd it’s mostly hand spiked at that. Several manufacturers make code 55, like Peco, Atlas, and Micro Engineering to name a few. Atlas just announced the code 65 track line, though I’m not sure if it’s hit the shelves yet. Code 70 is made by Shinohara (Walthers now I think), and again, Micro Engineering. Code 80 is made by Atlas, Peco, and many others.
Personally, I chose to go with code 55 as it looks pretty good and it’s readily available at a decent price.
The biggest thing with N scale track is to make sure your trackwork is smooth. N scale engines don’t have the weight to tolerate poor or even mediocre trackwork. Save yourself lots of headaches and do it right the first time. It’ll take a bit longer, but it’s worth it!
Next, I would say that you shouldn’t put more tracks in a given area just because N is smaller. Use the same HO track plan but make adjustments for track centers and such. If you do that you’ll have more room for scenery and your curves will be boader. Your layout will operate better and look way better. It will loose that “bowl of spagetti” look that can plague an HO layout on a 4x8.
And hey, one last thing…don’t stop asking questions. The only stupid question is the one you didn’t ask!
Space Mouse nailed it, one of the great advantages of old time modeling is that you can get by with much tighter curvers, sharper turnouts and shorter sidings and trains.
Unless you’re really up for building a lot of your rolling stock, I would suggest you consider HO over N. There’s simply a lot more that’s is and has been available. You can get by pretty well with 4-4-0’s for motive power. In HO, the Bachman Golden Spike 4-40s can be worked over to run well and look right. If you are willing to do some hunting at swap meets and ebay you can come up with some great kits for this era: Central Valley, Red Ball, Binkley, ang High Ballers are names to look for, but there are many others.
As far as RTR equipment goes Mantua (Tyco) made some Civil War period cars as well as a few others such as their bobber caboose and Dovers Caboose that can be worked over for your period. AHM made some nice freight and passenger cars that are easily available and right for this era. The present day IHC old time cars are also a good option.
To put the frosting on the cake, the old HighBaller/Alexander working link and pin couplers are back in production and listed in the Walthers catalog (Admittedly oversized, but not too much more than the standard #5 Kadees)
You’ll find the Europeans have made a lot of neat buildings and equipment for this period. They’ve been fascinated with the Wild West ever since Buffalo Bill took the Wild West show on tour over there.
Regardless of scale, for more ideas run down a copy of John White’s book, The American Railroad Freight Car. (your local libray can get it thru inter library loan). Lots and lots of great old photos of both cars and locomotives. It will give you a crash course on what was used when, and what it looked like. Many wonderful modeling ideas there.
Personaly I’ve been modeling old time railroading since the 60’s., both in HO and O.&n
OK, here’s some more links to N scale stuff that might be a help.
http://www.isp.on.ca/Sylvan/n-scaleproducts.htm
http://www.athearn.com/Products/N/Default.aspx
http://www.foxvalleymodels.com/nscale.html
http://www.micro-trains.com/trucks_n.php (Archbar trucks)
http://www.republiclocomotiveworks.com/ (This is an Nn3 site, but the structures would work)
http://www.blackbearcc.com/n_kits.htm
http://www.handlaidtrack.com/n.php
http://www.pinetreemodels.com/
http://www.taskboard.com/index.html
http://www.modeltechstudios.com/page1.ihtml
http://www.nscalesupply.com/ATL/ATL-TrackCode55.html (A link to some Atlas code 55 track)
And just to prove it could be done, a DCC decoder in an N scale Bachmann 4-4-0!
http://www.trainbuddy.com/Reference/Decoding%20Engines/N440.htm
Now understand, my focus is on New England, so I’m sure there’s more stuff out there for western based layouts.
Bachmann’s Old Timers series might be a good start for raw materials as far as rolling stock. That stuff is cheap at hobby
I forgot a couple of links…
These folks have some great buildings with false fronts and such. Also, a few of their depot’s would work well.
http://www.laserkit.com/laserkit.htm
Same for these folks…
You will also find a few things here…
And we can’t forget about these boys…
And these guys have some great stuff like a terrific bark and a windmill among other items…
http://www.showcaseminiatures.com/
And last, but certainly not least, something you’re going to need plenty of…barbed wire!
While you can get away with smaller radii, I would suggest not doing it. Remeber 75% of today’s mainlines were laid in the 1800’s so the prototype curves are just as sharp then as they are today. I would keep the grades to the minimum since the small steamers won’t haul much uphill.
There are a few engines, you’ll want 4-4-0’s and 2-6-0’s and some 2-8-0’s, all of which are available in N.
Virtually all of the boxcars are double sheathed cars so they are easy to scratch build. The only real issue with the cars is that virtually ALL of the cars are truss rod underframes. Scratchbuilding the truss rods could be a bit tricky. You could use needles as the queen posts and fine fishline or magnet wire for the truss rods. Put a dab of epoxy or superglue on the truss rod for a turnbuckle. Evergreen makes N scale car siding scribed siding. Gondolas would all be pretty easy, since they are virtually all wood sidied with wood stakes. There would be virtually no metal cars at all.
I model 1900-1905 in HO. Check out the Early Rail Yahoo group.
Dave H.
I used all 18" curves on my 4 x 8 layout, but if I hadn’t I’d not had much of a layout. My current layout has more room so I went with a 22" minimum on the main and 18" in industrial sidings. The point is though if you need to make a tight turn, you can do it and stay on the track.
He’s right about the grade. I had two 3% plus grades and my engines didn’t like them one bit. Now I stay under 2%.
Thanks all, I do appriciate the good feedback. There is more I hope. Mike