anyone replace a mechanical e-unit with an electronic one? Can it be done? I just want to get it running reliablely…well try to clean and lube before doing brain surgery.
I’ve never replaced a mechanical e-unit with an electronic one 'cause I prefer to repair the original. If I did want to make the change, here’s where I’d go first"
Simply go to the local TS buy a new one for $25 and solder it in. Very simple. Try cleaning the old one with alcohol before trashing it.
Don’t throw your old e-units away. More and more dealers will no longer sell you one unless you exhange a repairable one.
I have nothing against Dallee – just no experience with them. I like QSI, now handled by The Scaled Three Rail in Arizona or somewhere out there. See the “fine print” at the QSI web site.
I took the shell off(pretty easy just one screw) and found a broken wire(green attached to the e-unit) am waiting for the repair book that I ordered through the libaray so I can figure out where the wire goes. What is the best solution to use to clean wheels and rollers?
The electronic/elctrical/electromechanical technician in me came out and I fixed the texas special which is a 211 not a 210[#oops] from what I have read some of 200 series desiels had a 2 posistion reverse unit and some had a 3 posistion unit. I think that mine has a 2 posistion as it only has a forward and a reverse no neutral is this right or did I miss something in the fix?[D)]
Now I know why Frank53 and others are so hungup on postwar…there is not much too them making repairs simple[bow]
CSXetc,
You didn’t miss anything. That’s what “two-position” means.
The texas special is up and running, It just needs a little oil and some greese on the gears and it pulled my MTH train with out a hitch.[8D]
I have put a small amount of greese on the gears(all of them) at least 4 times and each time it ran better but still growls is this a normal thing for a postwar engine or is there something else going on with the unit? Reverse unit working great and the lockout feature works as well[^]
Oil the armature shaft - upper & lower - this will reduce the growling.
Rob
Thanks everyone for the encouragement and tips.[:D]
CSXect.
Sometimes that growl is due to armature shaft play, horizontal (wobble) or vertical, which results in binding or lash in the main gears. I trust you have found an exploded diagram. If not check out the Library at Olsen’s Toy Trains (online). You may not find a pic of your specific loco, but you should be able to find at least one or two in the 200-series ALCO’s.Frequently you will find some parts missing, or additional parts, generally shim-washers, added.
There are variations among this general class of locomotives, but look for a BB sized ball bearing that the armature shaft rides on at the bottom of a well, very thin thrust washers and occasionally others. Sometimes the hole in the brushplate wears and this causes wobble – the only easy cure is to replace the brushplate. Sometimes replacing the brushes with the newer softer types and the brush springs will help. The gears must mesh properly and move up or down just a few thousands of an inch. When the motor changes direction it puts an upward or downward thrust on the shaft. This needs to be adjusted to where it binds, and then loosened just until the armature turns easily. You may have to learn to love a little growling.
The more I run it the better it sounds. The wheels must be clean now as they do not spark as the roll anymore. When I get the book from the library I will check into the motor more closely. I did download a pic of the assembly for both versions of reverse unit.
I got the book and have not looked inside the motor yet and may not as it seems alright now but if something gets worse I have the exploded diagram of loco and motor.[:D] Thanks again for the help.