I know that it has a flexibility and you can shape it in many ways but can i cut it in the length that i desire? For example it’s length is normaly 920mm can i cut and use 600mm?
In a word - Absolutely!
You can cut it to any length you want.
On curves you have to cut it and, if you can, solder the joins before you bend the curve.
Do you thing is better to use flex tracks instead 3 pieces of straight tracks even if i cut them? I ask from the techical aspect if it is better.Also what about curves?
Once you get the hang of it flex track is better in almost any case. First, there are fewer joints. Second, you are not limited by the curve radii available in sectional track. Third, you can add easements to you curves, improving the performance and reliability of your trains. I am sure there are more reasons that are not jumping out at me right now.
You will want to get a good rail nipper (use it only on rail), and a soldering iron. Some people use a higher wattage gun, going for quick heating to avoid melting ties. Others use a lower wattage pencil type, and also succeed without melting ties. Do some searching and read some thread and you’ll see how each do that.
Jeff gives good advice. The only reasons for using snap track is either because you have it and don’t want to waste it, OR you don’t want to struggle with learning how to use flex. There is a learning curve.
I cut mine with a dremel tool and a diamond cutoff bit. That also works OK.
About melting ties, you will melt some. You then replace them. I have had better luck with the big iron, but I still melt a few ties. They are not hard to replace.
Good luck. Let the fun begin.
Hi, as for the soldering I found using a liquid flux even with resin core flux will give you a better cleaner and quicker joint. I also pre solder power wires to the fishplate/ rail connectors prior to installation and this too stops the dreaded tie melting. On some curved joints I stagger the rail joints on each rail I have found this gives a stronger rail join and you don’t get any kinks in your joints (this method uses the tie base from one of the pieces of flex track for strength) You will however have to cut one of the chairs away from the sleeper base to accomodate the fishplate.
Shaun
Fwiw, I’ve not soldered any of my flextrack connections on curves, and they look and work perfectly.
Nothing wrong with soldering of course.
my layout will be made with section track. the guy building it is disabled and cant use his hands well enough for all the extra stuff required for the flex track.
I know that this is not entirely related to flex track, but if you are worried about the ‘gap’ inbetween ties, you can just take the ones you cut off, file down the pointy parts and glue them back down where the gaps are. I have done this on my/my dad’s layout (Vail and Southwestern) and it works fine and looks really good. I am religious about using flux when i am sodering as it lets the soder flow easier( my spelling and grammar sucks, i know), so you get a cleaner joint.
Overall, i love flex track because it is (forgivepun) so flexible, for all the reasons that everybody else mentioned.