I have a few Athearn “blue box” switchers (SW7s and SW12s) that I would like to convert to DCC. Has anyone successfully done this?
Yes, I have done several of these I installs. Fairly easy to do. I will strongly suggest that when open the locomotive up, that you replace the standard issue BB wheels with nickel silver ones. This easy to do step makes a world of difference in performance.
Thanks for replying, OFR. I run a fairly small (but detailed) layout using a Bachmann EZ Command - decoder recommendations? Any instructions on how to do the install?
Although this is for an Athearn F-7, it’s basically the same for any Athearn bluebox diesel.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=db6A_hxhCAI
The main thing is the Athearn BB and some other older models didn’t have the motor isolated from the frame, so you have to do that or else you’ll short out the decoder. Once you’ve done it, it’s pretty easy.
Northwest Shortline (NWSL) makes these replacement wheels. The old ones pull off by hand and the new ones easily press in. Just be sure to check the gauge with an NMRA standards gauge. Most hobby shops will have them
https://www.walthers.com/catalog/product/view/id/351848/s/standards-gauge/?ref=1
Stix, thank you for that youtube link. Alas, Digitrax no longer makes that Athearn-specific decoder but a search for it on the Web led me to this excellent guide from Tony’s Trains Exchange that has a section on the Athearns.
OFR and G-paine - thanks for the advice on the wheels, I’ll take a look.
I’ve been using Digitrax decoders since day one,but I am switching to NCE since for less money I can get one that has everything the Digitrax has plus the ability to connect 1.5 volt LEDs directly to the decoder.
On any of the older blue box units I would reccomend checking amp and voltage draw before adding decoders.
Railfan: I am a fan of TCS decoders but there are literally dozens of manufacturers of decoders around the world. I am sure that any of the major brands will give you fine performance and (if needed) service.
Old Fat Robert
Here’s another video about converting a BlueBox SW1500.
Steve S
OK, thanks to all of your responses I’m ready to move forward with the installation. However, my unit has only a forward light (with the original bulb) and I would like to add a reverse light, so:
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If I use a Digitrax DH126 decoder, what type of bulb should I use? The original type is still available, but mounting it in the cab could be a challenge. Are there alternatives?
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If I use the TCS T1 LED, what bulb should I use and do I need to change the forward bulb as well?
I wouldn’t use bulbs at all because they will burn out. LEDs are far more reliable, do not generate heat, and can be very small so they will fit almost anywhere.
Here is just one example of what is out there:
Make sure you are buying ‘warm white’ LEDs, not ‘bright white’ which are actually blue.
You must use a resistor with the LEDs. 1K (1000 ohm) is appropriate. It doesn’t matter which lead the resistor is attached to.
Just glue the LEDs behind the existing lens in the front. For the rear, if you are making your own light, you can use canopy cement to form a lens. Epoxy works too but it will go yellow over time.
Dave
The simplest way to isolate the motor is to swap the top and bottom copper strips.There are two tabs on the bottom strip you can solder wires to.When you solder wire(s) to the bottom strip do it where the strip wrapa around to lock in place on the motor casing.
While I am thinking about it the reason Digitrax quit making the Athearn specific wiring harnesses was they couild no longer get the copper strips for the Athearn motors (or so I was told by one of our loco DCC gurus)
Just an FYI, I installed the TCS LED decoder and warm white LEDs and the unit runs well. Thanks to all for the advice!