I’ve just spent the last hour going through all conceivable combinations of tag words on this site but haven’t found any references beyond ‘grab irons’
So - is there a reliable adhesive that I could use to attach a brass cow catcher (HO) to the front of a plastic-bodied engine?
Thanks, Paul
Two-part epoxy is probably your best bet on this one.
Or a gel formulation cyanoacrylate. I would not expect the liquid super glue to work in such an application.
LION uses silicone caulk for EVERYTHING!
A lot easier that duct tape!
ROAR
Another good product for attaching different materials is 3M super weatherstrip adhesive. Same product as Walthers goo but you get twice the amount for the price.
The epoxy would be a better “forever” glue. If you ever need to remove the part, the 3M would be better.
For my bonds that are meant to be super-durable and tough, I use a two-part epoxy. In your case, though, I would seriously consider using either Ambroid or gel CA. If the brass item has a couple of small pins meant to be inserted into pre-drilled holes, then roughen the pins’ surfaces a bit for more tooth adherence, and use the CA or Ambroid. I think epoxy might be overkill in this instance, but it most certainly would not be a poor choice. It’s just that it likes to …umm… wander when it is searching for a containment.
Crandell
Try Dr. Mike’s Model-n-Crafter’s glue.
It glues all woods, delrin plastics, and metals, porcelain, etc.
It contains cyanacrylate–and is fast acting.
It can be used to glue delrin and celcon handrails, etc.
John
If I had to rely on only an adhesive, my choice would be contact cement. A couple of years ago, I had to remove some metal Kadee draught gear boxes from a couple of older cars, and needed pliers to break the hold of the contact cement which had been applied over 40 years earlier.
I’ve never had any luck with epoxy bonding well to plastic unless there was also a mechanical connection, either using pins or with the mating parts interlocked. Because the pilot may be subjected to push or pull forces, especially when doubleheading, the weak shear strength of ca makes it also a poor choice.
A better choice than any adhesive alone, though, is to also use some sort of mechanical connection, and for a pilot, screws or wire pins would be an obvious choice. You could then use epoxy, ca, or contact cement as added insurance.
Wayne
Walthers has a tube glue called GOO. It is like a thick rubber cement. Almost all Hobby shops have it. The best i have found when using it with parts made of different materials. It will give you enough time to position the part where you want it before drying. Once dry it holds fast. I use it even when Super glue won’t work.
Bob
When I’ve added super detail parts to my kit bashed steam locomotives, I’ve always used thick (Gel) CAs. In fact I have added a couple pilots (Cow Catchers) to both plastic and metal framed steamers with good results. I would agree that a two part epoxy would work well, also. In fact, thin CA will work just as good as thick CAs, if there is a method of clamping the part to it’s mating surface.
Many others have already recommended Goo or any other variety of contact or rubber cement. I like Pliobond, but the walther’s Goo or 3M weatherstripping adhesive does the same. The reason I like the adhesive for plows, pilots and other large cast parts is the ease that they can be removed if nec. AC works, however it is a brittle bond that can separate if jarred, epoxy is the strongest and also makes removal quite difficult. Many times when fitting plows/ pilots you need to “play” w/ the mounting holes for best alignment. The Goo or rubber cement allows for a bit of final positioning until sets/ dries.